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Re: Seat post bolt [uksoxfan] [ In reply to ]
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This just happened to me as well. It's an M5-0.8 20 mm long. you can get two generic steel ones at Home Depot for 75 cents.

I think the original bolt was stainless. You will have to find one of this online or at your trek dealer.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [tri.bassett] [ In reply to ]
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tri.bassett wrote:
Hi all!

On my SC 9, the left side arm rest has developed a crack parallel to the extensions, running through the mount holes I'm using, and I'm worried about it failing.

Does Bontrager/Trek sell these anylonger? I can't seem to find them on their website, nor am I able to locate a part number. I can get replacement PADS but not the plastic "cups" that mount to the bar.

Any pointers are appreciated...

Greg

You can do what I did and buy a set of zipp alumina pads and cups at tri sports for $40. I like them better, but because of the different angles you can't get the pads quite as wide as stock. Other people in this thread have also done this which is where I got the idea from.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [MattAune] [ In reply to ]
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Bingo! Thanks for the pointer!

Slowtwitch for the win!

gbassett.com
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Re: Bottom Bracket Issue [chadathlon] [ In reply to ]
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chadathlon wrote:
Hello,

I remember reading a while back about problems people were having with the non drive side bearing being loose. I took my bike to a very trusted mechanic yesterday and he said he can basically install and remove the non drive side by hand and the drive side is perfect. The bike is a 2016 with about 4,000 miles in 14 months, Project 1. I have Ceramic Speed bearings which were installed when the bike was purchased. The mechanic told me yesterday that the crank currently has minor play in it as the cranks don't spin well if he tightens the preload more. I took the bike in for service at about 2,200 miles, 4 months ago, and they said the bottom bracket was really dirty and I should bring it quarterly. The drivetrain was real smooth and after the bottom bracket service mentioned previously, the cranks were not as smooth. About 1,500 miles later the cranks started to creek so I brought it to a mechanic I know who is extremely thorough. He said the non drive side ceramic speed bearing was shot and it was extremely dirty all around. Ceramic Speed warrantied the bearing, but I tend to think I am having a similar problem as others have regarding the BB-90 bottom bracket material being worn out. I rode the bike today after the bearing was replaced yesterday and I could feel the play in the cranks. I know other people have had the same issue with the non drive side bearing. Very frustrating with a $10,000 bike.

Has anyone dealt with this recently? If so, what did Trek or your dealer do you for you to remedy the problem? Any other information would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You.

I have CS bearings and I have not had this issue at all. My bearings are 13 months old and they are very clean.

What crank are you running? Have you checked the preload yourself?

I've had the lbs put too much preload and also not enough on many occasions. Also had them not tighten the non drive side crank arm. Trust but verify.

Assuming all checks out, I'd be talking to trek. I could not remove or install either of my bearings by hand. Both needed tools. I'm leaning towards this being a frame tolerance issue.

blog
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Re: Bottom Bracket Issue [stevej] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks for the reply SteveJ. I have a Dura Ace with Pioneer Power Meter. When the bike was first assembled, I asked the dealer about the frame clearance issue with the Pioneer on the non drive side and they said they would check it when it came in. They put a spacer and it had enough clearance. After they re-greased the bearings, they forgot to put the spacer back in and I did not realize it for a few months and now I have slight scratches on the frame where the non drive side power meter scratched the frame. The mechanic who worked on my bike this week put the spacer back in and everything is fine.

I found the following thread on slow twitch which is basically dead on with the issue I am having.

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...ty_Question_P5877380

Any ideas would be appreciated.
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Re: Bottom Bracket Issue [chadathlon] [ In reply to ]
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So the pioneer issue is fixed and was a separate problem right? (Scratching the frame). I just want to make sure I'm understanding correctly.

I would personally check the preload on the shimano cranks and then check the two screws on the non drive side crank arm. If those are good, then get your lbs to talk to trek about warranty frame. I would push for new frame over the oversized bearings referenced in that thread. I wouldn't even mention the oversize bearings to your lbs. I'm surprised your lbs hasn't already brought this up to talk to trek. Sounds like you may have to push them a bit to do it. And if they give you grief, you can bring up the frame scratching from their screw up with the pioneer pm.

blog
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Re: Bottom Bracket Issue [stevej] [ In reply to ]
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Yes, we resolved the Power Meter scratching by installing a 1 or 2mm spacer. I did not have the Trek dealer do the latest work as I wanted to have a mechanic I trust do it to make sure everything was 100%. If I can't resolve it, I will go to the Trek Dealer and request a new frame.

Thanks for the reply.
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Re: Bottom Bracket Issue [chadathlon] [ In reply to ]
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chadathlon wrote:
Hello,

I remember reading a while back about problems people were having with the non drive side bearing being loose. I took my bike to a very trusted mechanic yesterday and he said he can basically install and remove the non drive side by hand and the drive side is perfect. The bike is a 2016 with about 4,000 miles in 14 months, Project 1. I have Ceramic Speed bearings which were installed when the bike was purchased. The mechanic told me yesterday that the crank currently has minor play in it as the cranks don't spin well if he tightens the preload more. I took the bike in for service at about 2,200 miles, 4 months ago, and they said the bottom bracket was really dirty and I should bring it quarterly. The drivetrain was real smooth and after the bottom bracket service mentioned previously, the cranks were not as smooth. About 1,500 miles later the cranks started to creek so I brought it to a mechanic I know who is extremely thorough. He said the non drive side ceramic speed bearing was shot and it was extremely dirty all around. Ceramic Speed warrantied the bearing, but I tend to think I am having a similar problem as others have regarding the BB-90 bottom bracket material being worn out. I rode the bike today after the bearing was replaced yesterday and I could feel the play in the cranks. I know other people have had the same issue with the non drive side bearing. Very frustrating with a $10,000 bike.

Has anyone dealt with this recently? If so, what did Trek or your dealer do you for you to remedy the problem? Any other information would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You.

I have the same issue with my gen1 2011 Speed Concept 9. When Carl from trek was active on this forum, he said it was a known issue, and that the resolution was a -slightly- larger bearing to take up the space, and he gave me a specific part number for the bearing. It does seem to have resolved the issue. I wasn't aware they were having the same issues with the newer frames.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [littlefoot] [ In reply to ]
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Bike: 2013 ('14?) SC 7.0 with SRAM Rival GXP crankset. My wife wants to upgrade to Di2 which will include Shimano Ultegra 6800 11 speed crankset. I realize I have to switch bottom bracket to 24 mm Shimano but what is it? BB86/92 or BB90? A search on bikepedia just shows it's press fit which I understand. Is there an easy way to tell without disassembling it?
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [Yeti racer] [ In reply to ]
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Yeti racer wrote:
Bike: 2013 ('14?) SC 7.0 with SRAM Rival GXP crankset. My wife wants to upgrade to Di2 which will include Shimano Ultegra 6800 11 speed crankset. I realize I have to switch bottom bracket to 24 mm Shimano but what is it? BB86/92 or BB90? A search on bikepedia just shows it's press fit which I understand. Is there an easy way to tell without disassembling it?

IIRC both the '13 and the '14 are BB90. The easiest way to tell the year is the seat post binder: is it a wedge or a two bolt system?
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [tri.bassett] [ In reply to ]
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tri.bassett wrote:
Hi all!

On my SC 9, the left side arm rest has developed a crack parallel to the extensions, running through the mount holes I'm using, and I'm worried about it failing.

Does Bontrager/Trek sell these anylonger? I can't seem to find them on their website, nor am I able to locate a part number. I can get replacement PADS but not the plastic "cups" that mount to the bar.

Any pointers are appreciated...

Greg

This happens a lot with the stock Bontrager arm cups. Go Zipp and don't look back :)
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [ridenfish39] [ In reply to ]
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ridenfish39 wrote:
Anyone know of a way to modify the aerobars to get more extension tilt?


I used the mono extension and put some aluminum Profile Design ski bend extensions in "backwards". See this thread for more pictures.

Last edited by: GreenPlease: Jul 9, 17 11:50
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [coates_hbk] [ In reply to ]
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coates_hbk wrote:
not in reply to you littlefoot, but just a general:

For those with di2, what do you use to keep your 5 port junction sitting on top of the stem cover?
cheers.

I also did the sand/glue thing for my junction box.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [GreenPlease] [ In reply to ]
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GreenPlease wrote:
Yeti racer wrote:
Bike: 2013 ('14?) SC 7.0 with SRAM Rival GXP crankset. My wife wants to upgrade to Di2 which will include Shimano Ultegra 6800 11 speed crankset. I realize I have to switch bottom bracket to 24 mm Shimano but what is it? BB86/92 or BB90? A search on bikepedia just shows it's press fit which I understand. Is there an easy way to tell without disassembling it?


IIRC both the '13 and the '14 are BB90. The easiest way to tell the year is the seat post binder: is it a wedge or a two bolt system?

It's a wedge in front of the seat post on the top tube.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [Yeti racer] [ In reply to ]
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Then it's a '13 or earlier. Still should be BB90. You can search for the manual online and that should confirm things for you plus have all of the relevant part #s.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [Carl] [ In reply to ]
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A couple questions for the group:

1) Has anyone experience the draft box top opening mid ride. This seems to happen to me even if there is nothing in it. It's the gen 2 box and I know it is as secure as I can get it. It looks to be the "button" does not set all the way. It's the gen 2 box. Any solutions other than tape?

2) Power meter questions:

Any suggestions on power meters? I'm looking at a stages but not exactly sure if it'll fit with the BB90. I have Gen 2 P1 with ETap and 165mm crank arms. Any reccomendations other than Quarq. Leaning towards a stages if possible b/c I've only ever heard good things.

Any input is appreciated!

Thanks!
Alex
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [MUTri23] [ In reply to ]
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1) I haven't had any issues with the draft box, not sure what you could do.

2) I know 2 people with stages on their SC and I have the P1 pedals. So, I know both of those should work fine. Not sure if there is a specific stages that works better than another.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [tyme] [ In reply to ]
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Currently have a 2011 Speed Concept 7.0
with 170 SRAM Red Crankset GXP

Looking to convert over to 165.

Can I just change out the arms and keep the chainring? Where can I find them?
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [flashroy] [ In reply to ]
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flashroy wrote:
Currently have a 2011 Speed Concept 7.0
with 170 SRAM Red Crankset GXP

Looking to convert over to 165.

Can I just change out the arms and keep the chainring? Where can I find them?

Should be a straightforward swap. What BCD does your existing spider have?
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [MUTri23] [ In reply to ]
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1. YEP! I use velcro to help keep it on. a sticky tab on each side and a strip over the top attached to the tabs on the side.

2. I use Garmin Vector2 pedals.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [MUTri23] [ In reply to ]
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MUTri23 wrote:
A couple questions for the group:

1) Has anyone experience the draft box top opening mid ride. This seems to happen to me even if there is nothing in it. It's the gen 2 box and I know it is as secure as I can get it. It looks to be the "button" does not set all the way. It's the gen 2 box. Any solutions other than tape?

2) Power meter questions:

Any suggestions on power meters? I'm looking at a stages but not exactly sure if it'll fit with the BB90. I have Gen 2 P1 with ETap and 165mm crank arms. Any reccomendations other than Quarq. Leaning towards a stages if possible b/c I've only ever heard good things.

Any input is appreciated!

Thanks!
Alex

I had this issue with my first gen 2 box. Took it to my local Trek store and they swapped it out for me and I haven't had an issue since.

I can't speak to what Stages PMs will/will not fit but I can tell you that Pioneer PMs have fit issues with Speed Concepts. Personally, I'd suggest Power2Max or the Powertap P1 pedals. I'd stay away from single-sided PMs like Stages.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [GreenPlease] [ In reply to ]
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SRAM Red 53t Road Bike Powerglide 10Spd Chainring 130BCD.

Where can I find it?
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [GreenPlease] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks for the info!! Out of curiosity, which power 2 max model do you run?

Thanks!
Alex
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [MUTri23] [ In reply to ]
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the Rotor 3d and gossamer models are compatible. You need fsa bearings for gossamer otherwise rotor 3d power2max is a straight swap.

MUTri23 wrote:
Thanks for the info!! Out of curiosity, which power 2 max model do you run?

Thanks!
Alex
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [MUTri23] [ In reply to ]
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I got the Type S with the 24mm Rotor 3D cranks which was a direct swap for my Shimano cranks.
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