i use a continental 4season 28mm rear on my shiv at it fits fine, with about 2mm to spare

Mark:
My seatpost screw "insert" has pulled out halfway and is now loose on 2011 S-Works SHIV; does this go back through local bike shop? Is it a long repair turnaround (will I be without my bike for several weeks)?

Yep....LBS. Some have had a quick turn around, others have taken longer. Specialized should have a fix for your LBS by now so they do not have to send your frame in. Specialized was very helpful when this happened to me.....twice. There is actually a specific thread on this issue if you care to search for it. I think its called Seat Post Fail...or something like that.

Thanks so much. Best bike I've EVER owned - just bummed to have a prob with it. I'll find that thread and take it to LBS asap. Blessings to ya.

Does anyone know if the Xlab Mini Wing is compatible with the saddle that comes on the current Shiv Elite (think it is the Sitero Comp with hollow Cr-Mo rails)?

-yup! Works for me!

Wondering what people have done to narrow their pads on the shiv WITHOUT buying a new basebar. Now that I finally had my bars replaced/fixed from the warranty issue I am finding I can’t get the same position. Its close but I’d like to bring my pads closer and keep the ski tips pointed straight up. Any “hacks” or other methods people have had luck with that doesn’t involve buying another basebar?
Thanks

I just do not replace it... We all think its just a few instances that it failed and because of US Lawsuits which can be expensive Spezi decided to do a recall just in case...

First Shiv on the way! should be here in a few days!

Anyone know about the $100 you're supposed to get from Specialized if you were involved the Shiv recall?
It will help cover part of the cost of the aerobar extensions i'm going to have to buy, since my Zipp's no longer work.

On a side note, the CeeGee aero bar pads are a huge upgrade over the specialized aero bar pads, about the sane price to.

I received the $100 credit.
However it is very specific that it must be used on SPECIALIZED gear, not aftermarket.
I used it to buy an ANT+ bike puter

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Michigan Awesome

Hand2Hand Ministries

I used it to buy the evade for $150 instead of $250.

Hey guys, not sure if this is discussed already.. if I'm doing a 20K or 40K tt and want best aero advantage, is it recommended to remove the fuelcell or leave it on?

I don't think that the straw takes much power in front of your body... I would use the fuelcell ( i did today) triathlons of any size even if the bike leg is just 20 or 40k.
For timetrial i would mybe not do it as there maybe no fluid needed... But in Time Trials you anyway may not be allowed to participate with an Non-UCI frame

I said fuel cell, but fuel seleage.
Fuel cell is the thing that holds the tube and extras on the bike triangle.

They should change the names as i always don't remember which is which...
But good news as i also use the fuelcell on small and standard distances. Speci says that it has no negative impact, just the additional weight of your stuff you put into... I like it very much even if I carried just two gels in it today in addition to the repair set.
But anyway its easy removed...

    I've always heard filling that space was an aero benefit, depending on the frame. But some time trials don't allow any extras to be on your frame. (I forget the term they used). But they may ask you to take it off. I know I have a torhans vr water bottle that I cut to keep my spare kit in. I wasnt going to take it off for the tt out of sheer laziness. But the Rd asked me to remove it. Said aero water bottles on the frame provided an unfair aero benefit. UNLESS I used it for its intended purpose and put water in it. I've heard of guys putting just a splash of water into them so they could get away with having it on the frame for the added benefit. Me, I wouldn't even notice the benefit im so slow. I'd just leave it on. But be ready if asked to remove it. If it's a club sponsored local event, you're good.

I believe Mark commented on this point either here or YouTube. It is drag neutral but in crosswinds it could act like a sail if I recall correctly.

I crashed a 2012 Shiv Pro. SRAM Red, glossy black frame with white red and orange stripes. Like this one:

http://oi45.tinypic.com/25isv2e.jpg

Only damage is brake lever which I'll replace, and what looks like a superficial (or not?) quarter-sized scrape on the fork, all the way to the resin but no visible fibres sticking out. It has a couple of deeper gouges/pits. I'd rather replace the fork just to be safe.

My LBS says they can't get that fork from Specialized. Is that right? I'd be fine with a plain gloss black fork (Really not interested in painting CF on my own) but they could not find that either. Only forks they could find were blue white and I think matte black. So how do I replace this?

Here's a picture:

Im reading Friction Facts report and Im wondering which bottom bracket I have in my Shiv Tri Pro 2012 (SRAM Red edition).

Is it a SRAM Black Box?

What crankset do you have?

It is a Specialized Pro FACT carbon crankset.

Is there anyone knowing what inside this bottom bracket? I heard that the S-Work version are using Ceramic Speed bearing, is it true?

My shiv!

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The entire event (IM) is like "death by 1000 cuts" and the best race is minimizing all those cuts and losing less blood than the other guy. - Dev

Yes, as far as I can tell. My S-Works has a Ceramic Speed BB.