just got my PM and cranks installed by a LBS, and my Garmin 500 isn't syncing with it. I plan to replace the battery tonight, but is there anything else to consider?

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TEAM F3 Undurance

Hi,

did you install the battery after receiving the power meter? It's not installed at the factory.

If it's a Classic you need to use a Renata battery.

Best
Nicolas

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power2max
http://www.power2max.com/northamerica
official power meter of Movistar Team

It's likely the battery then. I left the box/instructions with the LBS, but never checked to see if the battery was there afterwards. Thanks for your help. (and yes, it's the Classic)

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TEAM F3 Undurance

i just put my order in - looking forward to it! i didnt order a color sticker but in the comments i asked if a red one could be added in the shipment so i can decide if i want to put it on. if the sticker is missing, no worries, wasnt sure how to hanfle it. but thanks for the help and look forward to receiving it.

Nicolas,

What are your thoughts on Bluetooth? With a number of head units starting to move towards Bluetooth, do you see this as taking over from ANT+?

Hi,

sorry for the late answer. I don't have a crystal ball, but I guess Bluetooth seems to be getting more important with time. The big majority of cycling specific computers is on ANT+, though, and it's a known quantity in terms of reliability and how it works.

Cheers
Nicolas

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power2max
http://www.power2max.com/northamerica
official power meter of Movistar Team

Just curious if it was something that was in development.

Thanks again for the reply. Will be picking up a P2M S with the Praxis rings.

Cheers

Add the 2015 Specialized S-Works Tarmac to the list of incompatible frames :(

Recieved my P2M with a Rotor 3d+ crank last week. I just installed the crank on my bike (BSA 68mm) with a BSA30 bottom bracket. However, there is just too much lateral play to fix it with the preload bolt. The manual says I don't need spacers but how else can I fix this problem..?

Result after pushing the non drive side in the frame, it seems like the spindle is a bit too long??



Result after fixing the crank at 40nM

I needed 2 x 0.5mm nylon spacers (these were supplied with my 3DF cranks) and a turn on the pre load adjuster

And did your manual mention something about spacers? I measured the gap you can see in the 2nd photo and its about 5mm.. So the nylon spacers won't be enough.

The 3D+ manual has a single 0.5mm spacer between the pre load adjuster and the bearing - I don't think there is a manual specific to the BSA30 adapter.

Have you measured your BB shell width? I don't think there's a problem with using spacers, but you'll need to maintain the correct chain line or you may run in to shifting issues.

http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/pdf/bsa30_bb_manual.pdf is the manual for the BSA30 setup.


Spacers come in 3 and 5.5mm. So, I need a 3mm and place it on the drive side and let the preload bolt fix the other 2mm?

Those instructions say no spacers required for road ;)

I'm no BB expert, but first I would measure your BB shell width - it should be 68mm. At 68mm the drive side crank should fit up against the bearing seal with no additional spacers. If your BB shell has been faced to less than 68mm then you may need to add spacers to the drive side to maintain the correct chain line.

You may struggle to get 2mm with the pre load adjuster.

I had to put an 11.5mm + 2.5mm on my OSBB Tarmac to get my Rotor Power to fit which put the chain line out causing chain suck. I've now sold the Rotor Power and switched to S-Works cranks with Type S Power2Max

And BMC TM01

BB shell width is almost exactly 68mm so that isn't the problem..

Then I would put the spacers on the NDS only. My Rotor Power needed only 1 x 0.5mm spacer compared to 2 x 0.5mm for my 3DF on the same frame, so I think there may be some manufacturing variance on the Rotor axle lengths??

Yes it must be that there are differente lenghts.. Strange!

I've put a 2.5mm spacer between the BB and the frame on the non drive side and the play is gone. If I turn the preload bolt very thight, the crank has too much friction but when I turn the bolt halfway, it turns nice and without play. So I think I'm fine now, or does the preload bolt need to be tightened all the way?

I also think maintaining the correct chain line is more important on 11 speed transmissions

Adjust the pre load to just take out any lateral play and no more

I would also recommend Loctite 243 on the pre load adjuster pinch bolt as I've lost one in the past

Good advice, thanks!

Hi all,

sorry I missed the questions - somehow didn't get any more updates and didn't look before Eurobike. Thanks to Sim0n0 for jumping in here!

Re how far to tighten the preload nut - exactly, just until the lateral play is gone.

We also got asked what we had to release at Eurobike - here it is :): https://www.facebook.com/...081448023&type=1

Best
Nicolas

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power2max
http://www.power2max.com/northamerica
official power meter of Movistar Team

Hi Nicolas,

My issue hasn't been solved yet. Communication trough mail with P2M is also rather difficult and slow.

In a nutshell:
- BB shell width of my bike (BSA) is 68mm (0,6mm shorter to be exact)
- I have a 3D+ crank with BSA30 bottom bracket
- The manual of the BSA30 says I don't need spacers
- When installing it without spacers there is too much play, the pre load bolt can only manage 1-2mm of play while I have about 4-5mm

Now I placed a 2.5mm spacer between the bracket of the non drive side and the frame, the play is gone. However, with spacers on one side the crank isn't aligned well. Bigger Q-factor? And only on one side. I think this is not a permanent solution.

It seems like the 30mm spindle is too long. I can't think of anything else what can cause the play.