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Re: Official power2max support thread [power2max] [ In reply to ]
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Sorry to keep dragging this one out. I was aware of the modification needed to the aero rings, like you showed in the picture. So are you saying that the 50/34 standard rings didn't modification (see my picture)? And the 52/36 standard rings shouldn't need modification either with the Classic P2M? The 52/36 look just like the 50/34 pictured. Thanks again.[/img]

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Non-Swimming Duathlete
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Re: Official power2max support thread [rbrnut] [ In reply to ]
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Hi Rob,

sorry, I thought I had answered, but my computer crashed.

You have the OCP3 rings that only have one position. These don't have material between the chain ring bolts, that's why they work without modification. The "normal" rings in 52-36 have material there, this is why it doesn't fit.

Best
Nicolas

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power2max
http://www.power2max.com/northamerica
official power meter of Movistar Team
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Re: Official power2max support thread [power2max] [ In reply to ]
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Now its clear! Thanks for the follow up.

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Non-Swimming Duathlete
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Re: Official power2max support thread [rbrnut] [ In reply to ]
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PS: your extractor plate (the silver ring over the nut tightening the right crank arm onto the axle) should be below the nut, not above it :-), i.e. you shouldn't be able to see it

Best
Nicolas

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power2max
http://www.power2max.com/northamerica
official power meter of Movistar Team
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Re: Official power2max support thread [power2max] [ In reply to ]
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Well I guess the shop didn't do that right :-) I will pull out the manual and try to get it right myself. So it seems need to loosen the nut and put the ring below and reattach/tighten the nut.

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Non-Swimming Duathlete
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Re: Official power2max support thread [rbrnut] [ In reply to ]
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Spot on, you will just need to reverse the silver nut.

Best
Nicolas

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power2max
http://www.power2max.com/northamerica
official power meter of Movistar Team
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Re: Official power2max support thread [power2max] [ In reply to ]
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Hey Nicolas,
My "toys" came in the mail today :)
https://www.flickr.com/...et-72157643415030043

I hope to put them on this weekend, but we've had rain the last 3 days and better weather this weekend, so I may get some outdoor riding/running in while I can.
I'll keep you posted.
Thks...
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Re: Official power2max support thread [Blmgtnbkr] [ In reply to ]
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I have to start off by saying that Nicolas at P2M is awesome!!! Their customer service and response time is untouchable.
Thank you Nicolas!!

My question is around power readings compared to my Tacx Fortius trainer. I do not expect the two power readings to be exact, but I did hope it would be closer than 10-20 Watts apart.
My new P2M is reading 10-20w less than my trainer. Is there a calibration I should be aware of?

It is also worth noting that my P2M power was all over the board while my Tacx was reasonably steady.

I calibrated my Tacx before I started and then warmed up. I even stopped a couple time to let my P2M auto-cal.

My cadence is spot on.

Any words of wisdom?
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Re: Official power2max support thread [power2max] [ In reply to ]
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thanks Nicolas, last question do you think that the fact that you guys use 4 gauges vs sram and quarq using 8 - makes a difference in power readings? does new type s differs in this matter from old p2m?
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Re: Official power2max support thread [R2] [ In reply to ]
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Hi R2,

to abuse an old saying: it's not about the number of gauges, it's about what you do with them :-).

Seriously - no, it's not an issue at all. A bit like a carbon frame - one frame uses less material (lighter frame) than another, but can be even stiffer, if the right technology is used.

Best
Nicolas

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power2max
http://www.power2max.com/northamerica
official power meter of Movistar Team
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Re: Official power2max support thread [mikar_68] [ In reply to ]
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@mikar_68: it's perfectly normal that your power2max and Tacx don't agree exactly - the Tacx is not a calibrated unit, so differences are very well possible.

Best
Nicolas

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power2max
http://www.power2max.com/northamerica
official power meter of Movistar Team
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Re: Official power2max support thread [power2max] [ In reply to ]
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Hi Everybody,

I wanted to install the Type S on my Cervelo S5 with Rotor 3DF. I also own the normal P2M with Rotor 3D+ so I had the tool.
But my Rotor 3DF Lock ring looks totally different from the one I have on the 3D+ and does not fit to the crank. Has anyone faced these probs?


Last edited by: andid333: Apr 6, 14 13:15
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Re: Official power2max support thread [andid333] [ In reply to ]
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@andid333: we tested the tool with the lock ring with our tool and it worked. So unless they changed it the tool should still work.

Cheers
Nicolas

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power2max
http://www.power2max.com/northamerica
official power meter of Movistar Team
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Re: Official power2max support thread [power2max] [ In reply to ]
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power2max wrote:
@andid333: we tested the tool with the lock ring with our tool and it worked. So unless they changed it the tool should still work.

Cheers
Nicolas
@Power2max
Unfortunately this does not work as I can not insert the tool into the holes. The edges of the tool do not fit into the round holes. Do I have the latest tool?
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Re: Official power2max support thread [andid333] [ In reply to ]
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Yes, the tool hasn't changed. It's odd, because we have the same cranks in our office (we tested it at the time) and it works. I wonder if Rotor changed the spec. Does it clearly not fit or is it close?

Best
Nicolas

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power2max
http://www.power2max.com/northamerica
official power meter of Movistar Team
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Re: Official power2max support thread [power2max] [ In reply to ]
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Maybe I have to check again. Yesterday I did not get the tool in as I had the impression that the edges at the too did not fit into the holes. To me it did not fit in clearly.

So you say you checked with the same type of lockring? On my 3D+ I have the lockring you have in your online shop.

Cheers,

Andreas
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Re: Official power2max support thread [andid333] [ In reply to ]
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Yes, we did.

Rotor did a special lock ring for Cervelo that combines the lock ring with the drive side spacer. That's why it looks different. We got one of them to check and even though they look incompatible the pins fit the holes. Maybe check again :-).

Cheers
Nicolas

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power2max
http://www.power2max.com/northamerica
official power meter of Movistar Team
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Re: Official power2max support thread [power2max] [ In reply to ]
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power2max wrote:
Maybe check again :-).

Thank you. I will check tonight.

Cheers again,
Andreas
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Re: Official power2max support thread [power2max] [ In reply to ]
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Are you sure you didn't use a 3D rather than 3D+ tool? From the photo, the radius of the circle of holes looks clearly smaller than the 3D+ tool in the photo. Looking at my 3D and 3D+ tools side by side I'd say it looks more likely that the 3D tool would fit that lockring.
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Re: Official power2max support thread [power2max] [ In reply to ]
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Hi all --

Wondering if anyone has run into a similar issue.
I just got a semi-compact Rotor 3D P2M with the Praxis on my Orbea Ordu. I've had it at 2 different mechanics three times because I can't shift from the small ring to the big ring. Starting to wondering if there are some compatibility issues.
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Re: Official power2max support thread [Steve Irwin] [ In reply to ]
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Steve Irwin wrote:
Are you sure you didn't use a 3D rather than 3D+ tool? From the photo, the radius of the circle of holes looks clearly smaller than the 3D+ tool in the photo. Looking at my 3D and 3D+ tools side by side I'd say it looks more likely that the 3D tool would fit that lockring.

With a little pressure I got the tool into the holes, but yu need to be KingKong to get the thing turning. The locking sits bomb proof.
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Re: Official power2max support thread [andid333] [ In reply to ]
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Right, well that's a separate issue :)

It will have been assembled with threadlock. A little heat can help with the threadlock, but I put the crank arm in a vice and have used a 1.5m length of scaffolding pole as a spanner extender to get enough leverage to remove the lockrings from factory assembled cranksets. If you use the same technique it's at your own risk, I'm just telling you what I've done to get them apart in the past - I haven't broken one yet, though.
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Re: Official power2max support thread [Steve Irwin] [ In reply to ]
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Steve Irwin wrote:
Right, well that's a separate issue :)

It will have been assembled with threadlock. A little heat can help with the threadlock, but I put the crank arm in a vice and have used a 1.5m length of scaffolding pole as a spanner extender to get enough leverage to remove the lockrings from factory assembled cranksets. If you use the same technique it's at your own risk, I'm just telling you what I've done to get them apart in the past - I haven't broken one yet, though.

P2M offered me help so I will send the crank and sensor into their factory. Should be there on Wednesday. I tried with heat, but unfornately the German winter this year was too warm, so I did not do enough strenght training to get it turning...

Thanks for your help.

The guys from P2M offer awesome support.
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Re: Official power2max support thread [andid333] [ In reply to ]
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Btw I already have a P2M on my P3 and I am so happy about that I got this second one, the type S for my roadie...
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Re: Official power2max support thread [power2max] [ In reply to ]
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Nicolas,

This might be more of a question for the folks at Rotor, and one I think I know the answer to anyway, but I want to ask regardless to make sure I'm not screwing anything up. I was wondering whether there are any negative issues with not using the 1mm spacer on the NDS with a Rotor 3D+/Type-S? My Cervelo P5 was really (really) tight at 37.5 Nm main nut torque (range is 35-40) with the recommended build sequence for the BBRight (i.e. from left-to right: NDS arm - pre-load nut (backed completely outboard) - 1mm spacer - left bearing seal - left bearing - right bearing - right bearing seal - supplied wide spacer - DS crank/PM/CR assembly). The cranks would spin about 3/4 of a turn when I flicked them with the chain off with the above values. The pre-load nut of course wouldn't budge from the full out position.

Once I took the 1mm spacer off the left side and re-torqued the assembly to 37.5 Nm, I was able to hand-tighten the pre-load nut perhaps 2 turns at the most. The whole assembly spun much more freely. I can't imagine there being any problems with not using the 1mm spacer, but I thought I'd ask.

Dave
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