Just updated Joule GPS with the 19.076 firmware. Bravo! Power and Cadence smoothing are back!
Can’t wait to try it out.
Jesse,
Its still not working, I did the update changed the batteries and the garmin isn’t picking anything up from that one. Any other suggestions?
Grant
Jesse,
Is it possible to update the firmware of an SL+ ?
Specifically, when I calibrate with my garmin edge 500, it responds with my serial number. all this time I thought it was a cal number (that was very very stable 
). A poster indicated that that’s all the old SL+ firmware responds with.
is there new firmware? Not that I’m having any problems with my powertap. works great. And- love the new Garmin Edge firmware that takes you right to the calibrate option upon detection.
x2
.
I am sorry if this has been addressed already but a cursory search didn’t turn anything up. I am having trouble uploading to Strava from the PowerAgent software. Does this have to do with the whole Strava API mess? Is there an update available that uses the Strava V3 API, or am I just that special little snowflake that has broken it?
Just got a new Joule, and I’m trying to get the second bike feature to work. I connect the Joule, launch PowerAgent, select “configure device”, I enable 2 sensors, enter the IDs of 2 hubs, and save. When I enter the sensors menu on the Joule, the first option I get is “Bike1 find”, NOT “Which bike” . I am never able to get to the “second bike”
What step(s) am I missing?
Just purchased a brand new G3 rear wheel. 1st time I rode with it I had no problems. The second time I rode with it, it stopped collecting data about halfway through the ride. I’ve tried changing the battery and plugging it in to try and upgrade the firmware through the poweragent.
I’ve sent an email into Cycleops but wanted to see if there’s anything else to try. Are there indicator lights on the unit to see if it’s getting power?
With the Joule I’ve not been able to just put in the Hub IDs from PowerAgent and had it work. I have enabled them in PowerAgent, searched for them with the Joule and found them.
I have then read the configuration with PowerAgent and saved it so if I screwed something up I can just connect it and configure it quickly.
When I want to switch sensors I go to the sensor menu and it asks me which one.
I have a G3 powertap with updated firmware. Last saturday, I went on a 100 mile race rehearsal ride. Half way through the ride I noticed that my power numbers read in the 3, 000’s. After about 10 minutes of that, I shut down the device and restarted. Then the max power was read as 5 watts. Late in the ride the power number were about 100 watts higher than I believe that should have been. BTY, I had replaced the battery about 1-2 weeks prior to the ride and did wait over 60 seconds before putting the new battery back in. Anyone have any thoughts? Of course, my power number were worthless for analysis and useful during the ride.
With the Joule I’ve not been able to just put in the Hub IDs from PowerAgent and had it work. I have enabled them in PowerAgent, searched for them with the Joule and found them.
I have then read the configuration with PowerAgent and saved it so if I screwed something up I can just connect it and configure it quickly.
When I want to switch sensors I go to the sensor menu and it asks me which one.
In PowerAgent I set the number of sensors to 2, but I never get the “Which bike” menu. I have paired with the “Bike 1 sensor”, gone back to PowerAgent multiple times, but I can never get it to go into 2 bike mode. 
I guess I need to be in a graveyard at midnight under a full moon when I run PowerAgent, and set 2 bike mode while swinging a dead black cat over my head. But which way do I swing it? Clockwise or counter-clockwise? And do I need to get the cat from Cycleops?
I finally pulled together enough cash for a G3 (my first powermeter) I was planning on jumping on the REI deal for the rear built wheel but it looks like that one is long gone. Anyone have any tips on the best place and price to get just the rear built wheel? Best I have found is 800$
My SL+ has always been around the 524 mark, so a little on the high side, but after a recent battery change it’s up to 530. Any idea why and should I be concerned?
Any thoughts on this??
Do you care about the rim, spokes, and #?
MY SL+ in my race wheel starts around 515 after a new battery, and settles down to about 508 until it dies.
My Pro+ in my training wheel starts at 520 after a new battery, and settles down to about 515 until it dies.
As long as things seem consistant unto itself I wouldn’t stress about it.
MY SL+ in my race starts around 515 after a new battery, and settles down to about 508 until it dies.
My Pro+ in my race wheel starts at 520 after a new battery, and settles down to about 5:15 until it dies.
As long as things seem consistant unto itself I wouldn’t stress about it.
Seems consistent with mine. Thanks
I would like the 32 spoke
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The SL+ started shipping in 2009. Yes, the 11spd bodies are compatible.
Hi Jesse,
Can you tell me the year the PowerTap SL+ came out and can I replace the hub with an 11 speed hub?
Regards,
All PowerTaps do “auto-zero” so you do not have to manually do it. A sure sign that you do need to manually zero is if you are coasting and seeing power, otherwise everything is good. There are some older units that when a manual calibration request is sent the unit will confirm with the hub ID. This is normal.
I was under the impression (incorrectly probably) that a PT would ‘zero’ itself when coasting. I have not been calibrating my PT.
My questions are:
- Do I need to calibrate all the time?
- If so how often?
- What variances might I have been experiencing by not doing so?
- I just went in and calibrated my disc wheel via my 910xt and got a ‘Current 512 Torque 0.00’ reading, which seems to be what I am after. However, my normal wheel with a PT gives me a ‘Current 32024 Torque 0.00’ reading. 32024 is my unit ID. Why the difference and is that ok?
Thanks
Give us a call. There is just only so much we can do on an online forum…sorry.
1-800-783-7257
Jesse,
Its still not working, I did the update changed the batteries and the garmin isn’t picking anything up from that one. Any other suggestions?
Grant
Sorry, you cannot update the SL+. Mostly because there isn’t a version that fixes the particular issue you’re describing and we do not have plans to fix it. We stopped building them quite a while ago and believe it or not we ran out of code space on the hardware for any more features or changes etc.
Jesse,
Is it possible to update the firmware of an SL+ ?
Specifically, when I calibrate with my garmin edge 500, it responds with my serial number. all this time I thought it was a cal number (that was very very stable ). A poster indicated that that’s all the old SL+ firmware responds with.
is there new firmware? Not that I’m having any problems with my powertap. works great. And- love the new Garmin Edge firmware that takes you right to the calibrate option upon detection.