The bulbs have to be dimmable and the dimmer switch should be compatible with the type of bulb.

For example, there are some dimmers that are compatible with dimmable LED bulbs, while some are not.

... check if the actual light bulbs are rated for dimming

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RayGovett
Hughson CA
Be Prepared-- Strike Swiftly -- Who Dares Wins- Without warning-"it will be hard. I can do it"

Also make sure that your house has the required extra dimmer wire. And you need to know if you are using imperial or metric dimming.

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How does Danny Hart sit down with balls that big?

...


.. is that 4 quartz Canadian, or half a pint to the lumen ? I never did get that straight.

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RayGovett
Hughson CA
Be Prepared-- Strike Swiftly -- Who Dares Wins- Without warning-"it will be hard. I can do it"

If there are two switches in the room, you'll need a 3-way dimmer switch and not a single pole...

The bulbs need to be dimmable...

Philips Hue makes this kind of shit so easy. Expensive, but simple and easy. I will never look back.

To answer your question, if I was going to make high hats dimmable I would replace the bulbs with LED at a minimum. Then just get the switch and go for it.

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"...the street finds its own uses for things"

Just wired some dimmers in a new addition for my sister (been a while since I'd played on the residential side), and spent the extra money on the dimmer that will do damn near everything.

I've also seen in the supply house a new line of dimmers (Lutron, I think?) that said they did not need a neutral. Haven't used them yet, and not sure how it works, but looked interesting.

If none of this looks or sounds like it makes any sense, please just higher an electrician.
- Jeff

What kind of bulb?
What is the bulb rated for?

Incandescent? A standard dimmer is all you need.

CFL? Pretty much un-dimmable

LED? Depends.
Undimmable LED? Can't dim
MLW LED bulbs dim with adjustable magnetic drivers
ELW LED bulbs dim with adjustable electric drivers
0-10V dim by adjusting the voltage

90% of bulbs I get are 0-10V, but I guess that's for commercial applications

I am in the slow process of changing multiple switches to Lutron Caseta series. In total about a dozen or so switches exist between home owner grade and contractor/pro grade. The homeowner version of one switch does not require a neutral depending on how it is wired for 3 or single way function. You then piggy back with a Pico wireless switch tied to the main switch if you want 3 way. In theory, the idea is sound. However, the non-neutral switch is limited to 400W and is reduced even further if you have to cut the cooling tabs off. The same switch for the Pro version has a neutral is rated at 600W if it is used. They also sell another 3 way switch that will work as any standard three-way would, you just wire the other end of the three way hot. This is also a 600W rated switch and can be wired as a standard switch if necessary. The cost difference between the two switches is negligible. The no neutral could be extremely helpful in older homes, in newer homes it isn't.

Now, where does someone need 400W rated switches? If someone is still using bulbs other than LEDs, you can easily go over the rating if using BR30 style lights as an example.

I just think the technology is pretty darn cool. Come home, hit a certain distances from home or turn on your road, open the garage door automatically, turn on certain lights if it is dark out and pull the blinds up with just a simply scene in Homekit and technology that is right now readily available.


For the op, make sure you get a switch rated for LED lights. LEDs are cheap and last forever, absolutely no reason not to go this route. The cost of the switch will be much more than an older style dimmer, to the tune of $25-40.

I believe with LEDs you need a LED dimmible switch. These are around $20-$25. The standard switch causes flickering or buzzing I can't remember.

Unrelated note, I interviewed at Lutron. Weirdest interview, ever.

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-----------------------------Baron Von Speedypants
-----------------------------RunTraining articles here:
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...runtraining;#1612485

Really? You've piqued my interest - maybe a start to a good thread?