FYI: There's already a generic QR Owners thread. It has (or had) some nice PRs.

Thanks, we wanted to start this thread to answer any questions our QR owners have on PR series bikes specifically, and am personally a big fan of the QR mafia thread.

I'm actually curious about the Qbox light. Mine can barely be seen. Are there any plans to release an upgraded top with an LED in it? Or have you heard of anyone modding the light?

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Use this link to save $5 off your USAT membership renewal:
https://membership.usatriathlon.org/...A2-BAD7-6137B629D9B7

We are looking at some enhancements to the Qbox light, but will have to get back to you on what stage of the process we are in. I will talk to design on Monday AM and send you a PM. Thanks for the question.

Something to "re-post", the 2018 PR six can be obtained with rim or disc brake options! I was not aware of this until after I ordered my green PR5 frameset with the known rim brake design.

PR = Private Reserve no? Please may I join with this? :0)

Hi guys - Great idea for a thread! I had two beginner questions regarding my PR3:

(1) Does the stock rear brake have a quick release mechanism? I don't see one, but wanted to check.

(2) When using my bike on an indoor trainer, I notice a "grinding sensation" when pedaling down on the left side while in the front small chainring. It's not particularly noisy, but there's a distinct vibration. The problem disappears if I switch to the front large chainring and pedal at a higher cadence. I've moved my bike between 2 different direct drive trainers and the grinding is still there, so I suspect it's the bike and not the trainer. Any idea what could be causing this?

Can you point me to a document that has the torque recommendations for attaching the PR6 fork to the frame, and any other recommended torque values, please? I need to remove the fork to travel with the Armored Hen House case.

Also on your website there is nothing regarding the 2.0 stem assembly, torque, etc-please point me to that as well.

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Strava

It's tough to tell in the pic, but I believe you're right. Slowman knows all the key indicators of that vintage, so maybe he'll chime in and hit us with the facts of what you have there. Very cool bike!

Brad DeVaney
QR

JonathanNYC, there are no beginner questions ;)

1) the rear Shimano TT brakes do not have the conventional quick release mech built in. To the dealer, our bikes are packaged with optional inline adjusters to allow opening and closing of the brake. Properly placed (near the stem) these adjusters can allow on-the-fly adjustments should they be needed. I love these little guys: https://jagwire.com/...rts/inline-adjusters

2) I suspect your chain may be dragging either the inside face of the large chainring or the front derailleur. Should you be using the small chainring with the last two cogs (smallest), please upshift to the big ring and 2-3 clicks easier on the rear. You'll be in a comparable ratio and not "cross-chaining" which causes a great deal of drivetrain stress and premature wear.
If the issue isn't related to cross-chaining, but is the chain touching the front derailleur, a slight movement of the shifter (not a full shift) may alleviate the contact. The slight movement of the front derailleur is referred to as "trimming" and is often necessary when using inner cogs when on the big ring OR when on the small ring and using the mid to outer/smaller cogs. We don't expect anyone to use the smallest two cogs and the small ring. Small ring cross-chaining is a no-no.
If this doesn't solve your issue, have a seasoned mechanic have a look. The PR allows 3 dimensions of front derailleur adjustment: a) rotational angle of the front derailleur mount on the frame b) height of the front derailleur above the chainrings and c) yaw, or angle of the derailleur cage in relation to the chainring plane.

Thank you for being a part of the QR family and we wish you a great season!
Brad DeVaney
QR

Here's a tech doc that may be useful when installing your fork. http://www.quintanarootri.com/...ce_5a5e1bac419bd.pdf

It calls out proper procedure for both Gen1.5 and Gen2 stems. I'm expecting the doc to be updated with Gen2 images soon. The procedure is the same, but the Gen2 doesn't require mounting a lower cradle or different length hardware when raising or lowering the basebar.

Safe travels and we wish you great training and racing!

Brad DeVaney
QR

Are there any differences/improvements between the PRFive 2016 and 2017 models? I am looking to purchase a left over 2016.

Maybe I should've posted in pink!

It's a QR Kilo PR frame from about 1998, with a fork of a Redstone so a bit of a mish mash.
My original Kilo ripped the front mech hanger rivets out (in Lanzarote!) and Dan kindly offered an upgrade to the Redstone.
The Redstone finally died a year or so back (crack to the head tube) so now lives on the Kickr, and I picked up the NOS Kilo frame shortly after. It still gets ridden and occasionally raced when I'm feeling too fat/slow/old/unfit for my newer bike (which isn't a QR sadly)...

For 2017, the PRfive gained Q Box bosses. Both year models will have top tube storage bosses and the same SHIFT+ frame design as the PRsix. Another factor to consider is warranty. Feel free to call or chat with us online regarding the specifics of a new or used bike you're considering. We're here to help you with your options and decision making.

Cheers,
Brad DeVaney
QR

I have a PR6 question for you: does the steerer tube come pre-trimmed or does a bit of it extend beyond the stem? I only ask as I'm contemplating buying a PR6 to build up with my MORF aerobar (when Frank finally ships it to me) and a bit of exposed steerer would ease my BTA concerns.

Also, what's the maximum tire clearance (measured width) for the PR6 disc?

Post in PINK! HAAAAAA!
It's great to hear you're getting the nostalgic rig out of the stable now and then. We're here when you want to discuss an upgrade (wink wink).

Seriously, thanks for sharing the pic. We love to see and hear from owners who continue to enjoy a piece of our history. It's a passion we share and I'm personally grateful.

Continue to enjoy the miles!
Brad D
QR

I tightened the Qbox bracket too hard and it cracked. Your site only sells the entire assembly (bracket, box, and lid). Is it possible to only purchase the bracket?

Also, I purchased my pr5 in 2017. It appears to come with a bento type box. But it doesn’t seem to fit or I am not sure of how to attach to the top tube. Is there instructions on the assembly?

I just received a PR5 frameset. No owners manual. Would like to know the torque values for all of the screws -dropouts, bottombracket, front derailleur bracket, etc. prior to using my etap groupset to build up the frameset.


I had 2325 grams for this size 54 PR5 frameset. I would guess that a PR6 in this size would come in at around 2210 grams. Glad to get my hands on a great rim braking triathlon bike before only disc braking bikes are sold.

Thank you, Brad - appreciate the help here. I'll take a look into both of these and see if they fix my issues!

I also wanted to see if you guys had any thoughts regarding BTS hydration options. It turns out the combination of the stock PR 2.0 + my saddle position + QBox makes mounting a BTS bottle tricky. I've tried an XLab Delta 300 and XLab Delta 425, but they don't work - here's a photo https://imgur.com/a/6QdJx

Curious to see if you guys have seen this before and if so, if you have any suggestions for a single BTS mount? I know XLabs makes a Turbo Wing product that hoists the bottles a little higher and might work, but I don't want to run double bottle cages in the back (suppose I could just run a single cage, but feel like it would look a little silly).

Joe Gambles OR PR6 from 2017 Ironman

high mounted cages

Another option, profile design rmp which is adjustable angle behind the saddle

Just purchased a PR3,although I will not pick it up for a couple of weeks. Can’t wait. I’ve rode a road bike up until now so I’m looking forward to a proper Tri bike

Dan

I usually like an all-black bike, but that neon green is quite appealing!

Under the front of the pr6 stem, there's a hole for routing the front brake cable, at least that's what I assume it's for. I've just taken ownership of one, but the LBS routed the cable directly to the aerobars.

Should the exposed cable run through the stem, or is there a noodle(?) of some kind needed? I ask because the cable housing currently on the cable looks too wide to fit. Thanks!

This is a QR PR6 from 2017 Kona:



Hope it helps with your question.

Thank you, that's perfect! Also informs me that an omega X brake would look much more aero than the TRP T860 that I have :-)

Question on the 2018 PR6, specifically on how it steers. The bars turn very easily, to the point where for example I can't imagine running with it in transition held by the saddle. Whenever I move the bike it turns, when I got it the plastic on the fork already was scratched from hitting the frame. It's now at the stage where there's a small chip off the frame, and the fork gets stuck there.

Is anyone else experiencing this? Is it possible to tighten? Other than that I'm loving the bike!!

If you’re on Facebook there is a good discussion on this topic in the QR Triathletes group

Thanks Dan, not on Facebook but you got me googling. Turns out that the 2015 version tririg reviewed had an optional steering limit bolt for under the stem.

Now looking at stem specs on QR site, I can't see mention of it in either the gen 1.5 or gen 2 spec. Worse, I have the 1.5 stem in a 2018 frame (neutron) that I picked up in April. WTF! Will be making a call to the LBS as I'm getting pissed off.

Long FB story short - Yes, the Gen 1 stem has a bolt that limits movement. That bolt is not applicable to newer PR6, nor PR3 or PR5.

The newer PR6, PR3 or PR5 have a rubber device that stops the fork hitting the frame. However I’m not sure how long it will last. QR do post actively on the Facebook group and say that most damage occurs when the bikes are placed on car racks and the wheel is left unrestrained to push right round. QR have sent people ‘stickers’ to protect the frame too.

I’ve just had an issue yesterday/today (not this issue) and QR resolved super quickly via FB messenger.

Dan

Jack
I copied and pasted the FB response from QR below:

“ Hi all! We are very sorry to see this has happened! This is generally caused by transportation; loading and unloading of the bike in vehicles or when the bike is placed on hanging style trunk bike racks where the front wheel is not placed or secured in a fixed position, allowing it to turn freely with movement of the vehicle. The fork then rotates to a degree where sometimes strong contact is made with the corner of the frame. PRsix models with the Gen 1.0 stem do have an option for a limit screw that will limit how far the fork will turn and prevent it from making contact with the frame. The PRfive model does not feature the integrated fork and stem like the PRsix, so there is no option for installing a limit screw or Gen 1.0 stem. Alternatively, it does feature a thick piece of coating, similar to a screen protector, which is installed on all PRseries bikes from factory. Unfortunately, we have seen instances of this protector being worn through and then damage being caused to the finish of the fork. We’re certainly happy to get you fixed up with a new protector and touch-up kit to restore the color if it has been chipped! Just send us an email to info@quintanarootri.com and mention this Facebook post!”

Thanks again :-). I don't have the rubber device, something to follow up on. In my case I have to take unreasonable care not to allow the fork to rotate when moving the bike. I never had to baby another bike in this way.

Edited - definitely have 1.5 stem after consulting Dan's article again and the QR site.

I’m putting the link to the FB group here for anyone in the future reading this thread:

Dan

https://www.facebook.com/...ps/1673865369373933/

I have a 2018 pr six disc and am loving it. I had a small problem with the front aero storage zipper and one email solves the issue with a fedexed replacement

Customer service is great. I got the pink neutron frameset and its super fast and turns heads.

The discs are exactly what you want.

Looking to get a PR5 frame (maybe 2017 or '18) and build it up with my current components. Will be running Di2. Was watching some PR6 videos on youtube and it looks like Di2 junction box hides in a front cutout area on the top tube storage. Would you run the junction box on a Pr5 the same way?

Also how much nutrition can you fit in the long top tube storage option. I've got a Torhans bento x and can maybe get 3 gels and they are a pain to get out while riding.

I can get 9 Cliff gels in the long version, but I don’t have any junction boxes in there (mechanical groupset)

Dan

Got my PRfive built up and fitted by à Bloc bikelab in Belgium.

I’m a happy camper.

New PR3 owner here and I have a question. When I apply the front brake and move the bike forward and back a bit, there seems to be a lot of slop in the steering stem/headset. I'm familiar with how to do it on a roadbike but this PR isn't set up the same and I'm not sure how to take that slack out.

The dealer is 3 hours away so I'm hoping to fix this myself. Can anyone recommend a video or a resource somewhere?

It should be the exact same as how you'd do it on a road bike, no? PR3 just uses whatever normal stem you choose, correct? So loosen the stemp pinch bolts, tighten the top bolt as required to take out the slack, then re-tighten the pinch bolts to torque spec.

Yep, what he said. Changed the headset bearings in my PR3 recently, couldn't possibly be an easier bike to work on the front end.

Dan

Also check if the carbon expander sits snug and not totally loose in the steerer tube.

This guy does a better job of explaining that, than I do. Refer to the most important part as he calls it around 1:25



Some headset bearings use a sort of shim to fit well with the steerer tube. Google headset steerer tube compression ring. This is to remove any play before tightening the stem and other bolts.

Otherwise its just business as usual with the top cap and stem bolts. Use a torque wrench, PR3 has a carbon steerer.

I have a question -
I got my PR six last August and love it. I have heard of previous versions having issues with the fork contacting the frame when turned all the way left or right and there being an after market lizard skins piece to protect the fork. Well, mine came with an actual rubber stopper that is kind of part of the frame. Anyways, the little rubber stopper is falling apart, just crumbling.
1. I don’t know if this part if replaceable.
2. I ordered the bike online and don’t have a QR dealer within 100 miles
3. I don’t really want to fill out a full warranty form if this is like a 5$ part I can just pay for?

I did email QR but they just sent me a link to the sticker?

It's on their website in the gear section. $10 fork protector kit

https://quintanarootri.com/collections/gear

I want to replace the stock stem with an Aeria Ultimate on my PRFive2. I'm wondering if there another way to route the front brake cable thru the toptube then fork maybe? A la PRSix2?

Any manual I can refer to?

Thanks