Is there some super tough cable shielding out there? A braided kevlar sleeve over it?

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Zen and the Art of Triathlon. Strava Workout Log
Interviews with Chris McCormack, Helle Frederikson, Angela Naeth, and many more.
http://www.zentriathlon.com

I rerouted the cable to the other side of the steerer tube. I think I will try to replace the brake cable and wrap it with gorilla tape or something.

I've having some issues with my lower brake rubbing on some demo rims I'm borrowing. They are the new Easton EC90 Aero 55mm (29mm Wide Outer). The rims fit on the bike just fine with 25mm tires, but the brakes are not optimal for it. I'd say a 25mm out Rim width is good, which I was running prior.

They do look good though :)

Man, that's a good looking bike. I wish they made one big enough to fit me. :( Congrats on the cool ride!

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Zen and the Art of Triathlon. Strava Workout Log
Interviews with Chris McCormack, Helle Frederikson, Angela Naeth, and many more.
http://www.zentriathlon.com

Any update on this?
I test rode the mech version and really liked it except the fully filled water bottle ejected off the front going over some road bumps. That's not a deal-killer. I could add a small bit of tape on the sides to lock it in. But, add on this hiccup that you are describing and I'm rethinking my options.

Thanks Brett. Tried them today with 20mph crosswinds. They were not too bad. More predictable with gust than other rims I've tried with same depth.

My mechanic is calling Giant today to report this and see what they say. They had to front a Di2 cable and don't want to have to keep fronting more of them. I'll update everyone when I find out.

Try Enve's, I was amazed how good they are in wind the first time I tried them. I actually looked down thinking I had standard box rims on

Thanks! I actually already have a set of 7.8 ordered already. These are just demos the Easton rep let me try.

I imagine some tape on those sharp edges would be better than around the cables.
If that gap for the wires is about 1 cm, then the tape could extend out a 1 mm or so, making a soft, dull edge to rub against.

Please do update with what you hear from your mech/Giant.

Update?

Sorry everyone, I haven't heard any updates from Giant yet. It may take a while for them to get back.

For now, I shrink tubed all my connections going back using 3M 3/8" shrink tubing. I'll check on it in a month to see how it is holding up and report back.

Do you have any pics of your di2 routing? Is your Junction A hidden in the "nose cone" or are you running a 4-port B junction in the nose and keeping your Junction A in the bento box?

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Alex Arman

Strava

Since I have a Medium frame. I was able to bundle the 4 port box in the nose cone(head tube covers). There are two wires that run to the Junction A box which I have in the Bento box. Those two wires are shrink wrapped together. In the Bento box, there is a place where you can snap the Junction A box in, so that it doesn't move around.

Have you had any trouble with the straw being short? Looking for somewhere to order a longer straw.

Yes! It's way too short. Not only that, try filling up the thing on a ride. Since it sits lower than the aero bars, I end up spilling a lot of fluid. For now I've just been using a normal BTA bottle.

So you mouneed a BTA holder on your aerobars? Did you leave the Torhans system on?

Yeah, at least for training. Im still on the fence on whether I'm going to use it at HIM Oceanside. I use the xlab velcro version so it's easy enough to just take it on and off. And yes, normally I don't have the Torhans mounted.

I'be got a similar speedfil setup. Doesn't that negate the aero design of the front end by taking off the torhans?

Yeah, that is why I'm still on the fence. Function or Aero? And I bought the bike for the integrated solutions. That is why I'll probably just use it during races. I don't want to have to clean my bike after every ride when using the Torhans.

Agree. It is a mess. Trying to find a longer straw for races. Might try Lowes or something

<html><body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">Please let me know if you come up with something.&nbsp;<div><br></div><div>Ive experimented with Camelbak hoses and Hydroflask Straws. I think you could make something with those.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>Here is something I tried. The bite valve was &nbsp;little too heavy and flimsy though.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/...ody></html>

I am probably going to cut down an old torhans straw and super glue it over the giant straw

I have launched the front hydration as well, have to tape it on... Not loving it! Also used a Speedfil straw as the stock one is way to short.

When I launched the bottle, it was put together incorrectly. The mounting piece came off the front of the bike with the bottle...not good. There is a small screw that holds it to the bike and that screw was put in before the mounting plate.

Did your bottle launch off with or without the mounting plate?

FWIW, I have raced twice and still taped it on just to be sure. Once I get some training ride in on it outdoors without the tape, I'll confirm that this screw is actually doing the job that I think it is.

Yes it is mounted correctly. I noticed it would work it's way forward at the bottom while riding and I kept popping it back. When it came off it was a total surprise and actually dented in the edge. After pushing the plastic back out I started using black duct tape around the seems to hold it on. Waiting on a response from Giant regarding that and some other issues I experienced racing Oceanside last weekend.

Hi, I am having this very problem. I just got a Giant Trinity Advanced Pro 2, I've had it out on the road twice with the front bottle half full of liquid, on both occasions it has fallen off when going over small bumps in the road. In your post you mention a screw holding the bottle or bracket in place, I don't see this on my bike.

Could you by any chance post a picture of the correct mounting of the bottle? I am going back to my Giant retailer to get them to investigate, but would like to have some evidence if it has been mis-fitted. My plastic bottle is now trashed from the drop offs, not what I wanted when buying a new bike :-(

Thanks for any assistance.

Smt1975.

I think it was simply that the top 5mm bolt that holds the bracket on was incorrectly installed. The bracket came off with the bottle and with that screw correctly installed, that won't happen.

I have just been taping the bottle on each side with gorilla tape. Be careful. The graphics on the bottle are a sticker, not paint. So, if you want to maintain them, don't put the tape on them, (They do restick on easy enough.)

I was given a new top bracket that held the bottle tighter on top but still let it slip out at the bottom creating a gap. I also broke one of the brackets just installing the bottle. With all of that said, my confidence in the bottle staying on was not there and I was still taping it to the bike through my race at St George. I ended up taking the bike back as it was not living up to the marketing hype...

I wonder if the issue was the bottom bracket as outlined in the other thread?
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/Slowtwitch_Forums_C1/Triathlon_Forum_F1/Giant_Trinity_Advanced_Pro_Front_Hydration_System_-_Falling_Off....._P5961400/?page=unread#unread

Thanks for the link. I had the correct set up, unfortunately it's a poor design.

Sorry to jump in -
Just curious if anyone had a suggestion on the straw length or on how to fill up the front aero bottle on the bike - so far I'm making a huge mess...
Thanks

Reviving this thread. After a season of racing, the same issue came up again. I put my bike on the trainer the other day and my left shifter was dead. Opened up the front end last night and found that all my cables going to the rear of the bike were sliced open. It even went through the heat shielding that placed over the cable.

This is actually the 3rd time this year that I have had to address this issue.

1) Is anyone else out there experiencing this?

2) Has the routing changed with the 2017 Bikes?

3) Has anyone thought of a better method to route?

Thanks

I'll open mine up and take a look on Friday.

The last time I looked, I didn't think there was any issue.

Thanks! Perhaps you can post a photo of how you ran your cables. Maybe mine are not ran right, or there needs to be more slack in the line?

I'll open mine up today too and have a look. I've used mine since March and have only recently put it away fro the winter, it's had a few k of miles put on it. However, from memory I know all my cables run the right side of the steerer as opposed to each side. Really annoying when you're trying to roll your bike in a straight line as it keeps turning itself to the right so I planned to open it up and re-route it this winter. I'll have a look later and take some photos.

I've had trouble with a few things on this bike...

1. Front hydration flew off on the first ride, destroyed. Got a new one on warranty and rigged up a zip tie to keep it on; haven't had any problems since. If using, don't put anything in it except water. You'll get whatever is in it all over your front end no matter what.

2. Front cables being rubbed. Haven't had to replace any yet or had any wear through to the point of not being able to use it. Wrapped some tape around them so hopefully that holds up for this last race.

3. Front brake. One of my return springs got messed up on my front brake so one of the arms would not go back to the open position. Got a new (updated) one on warrenty. Installed this along with some better cable routing and haven't had any problems since.

4. Little "aero" fins on the rear brake calipers both snapped off; no idea how. Not worried about it.

5. Basebar creaky. Had been happening for a while and couldn't figure it out. All cockpit bolts were torqued down. Ended up being the screws on the front nose cover being a little loose. Tightened those up and problem solved. **It's not always the bolts you'd suspect. Check them all

6. Aerobar's loose. The aerobar risers have always moved a bit more than they probably should. Minimized this by adding some extra washers between the bolts and the bottom of the base bar.

**Disclosure. I got this bike veryyyy early on in their production. As far as I know, it was the first on the East Coast (US). Not completely surprised by some of these things b/c of that. For me, Giant has been great with warranties; so don't hesitate to reach out to them. If you can't get an answer quickly, find your local Giant dealer and they can likely go through the regional rep.

Thanks for reply.....

5... My base bar gets creaky too. Be sure to check your front bolts often. I've looked down and twice have had a bolt missing.

6. I BROKE my aero bar off from the basebar already. I was riding in aero position, hit a bump on the ride, heard a loud snap. The rear bolt that holds the left aero bar on snapped through the base bar. Unfortunately, a replacement bar is a couple months out, so I had to put a little washer in there to hold the bar in place. It's still a little loose but will do. I may just ride my Propel for this last race (sprint) I'm doing if I can't get my DI2 shifter up and running before then.


**Disclosure....I also got this early in production (January), perhaps one of the first ones on the WEST coast (US). I'm in the same opinion and not surprised about all these things. Warranty has been great. I guess it also helps to know folks that work or have worked at the Giant warranty department here in SoCal. My bike shop is a huge Giant dealer too and they always take care of me.

Were you able to open yours up and have a look? I'm working with Giant/LBS right now one this. Thanks

I'm going to open mine tonight. I'll post up pics soon after.

Mine looks similar to yours, but the two Di2 wires going into the hole goes in much straighter, towards the back, along the top tube.
It therefore doesn't rub on the bottom edge of that hole.
One has a sleeve on it, and there are little marks, but nothing that appears close to rubbing through.
I only have about 100 (nontrainer) miles on it, so maybe I am just slower at accumulating that eventual fault.

I did put a layer of gorilla tape after seeing your first post about this and sure enough that tape was not pristine today. I put down a fresh layer.
Here's a pic: https://goo.gl/...os/PwJ1LHL6616MrjCCA

Thanks for checking this. This helps a lot. We looking at this more today an it seems like the opening is too narrow. My brake cable looks similar to yours. When you turn the HB back and forth, it rubs either on the bottom or top. That caused the split in the brake cable. I undid the DI2 stuff so that there is more slack in the cable so hopefully that will help. You may not see too much with 100 miles (non trainer) on the bike right now. I put on about 2500+ miles so far to get the wire to this point. I also like to stand up and mash it like on a road bike, so maybe that sped up the process too.

The DI2 Cable that is attached to the shifter was sliced, but fortunately I was able to splice the wires back together to get me through my race tomorrow. Thanks again for checking.

No problem.

The brake cables seemed a lot 'farther along' than the wires since they came in the slot at a much more vertical angle. It is not a good design. Perhaps an oval grommet would sit in there tight enough?