I'm curious too. No TT bike here, but I put ~120 miles on a 40 pound commuter every week and my roadie is ~20lbs (also not aero) so super light bikes get my juices flowing.

My Speed Concept weighs ~18ish lbs. Tubular wheels and a light saddle help. But it would probably be faster at 19lbs and Turbo Cotton tires (vs Vittoria Evo CX tubulars) at any race in the world.

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/kj

http://kjmcawesome.tumblr.com/

 
My tri-bike is a 10 year old, custom made Yaqui. With a pair of Zipp 404 wheels and Syntace C2 clip-ons aerobars, it clocks in at just under 17lbs.

My Kane Carbon Krono with training wheels, pedals, cages, and saddle bag (spare tube, CO2 kit w/ 2 CO2s, tire lever) weighs 18lbs 8oz. With my deep dish race tubular wheels (w/ Red cassette), it's 17lbs 5ish oz. I don't have my race wheels in the shop, otherwise, I'd weigh it too. It's light!

SRAM Red, 10 speed (currently w/ Rival cassette & Rival chain)
Profile Design Cobra Carbon base bar
Profile Design T-Mag aero bars
Ritchey WCS 4-Axis stem
Carbon Aero seat post
Selle SMP Glider saddle
Arundel carbon cages (two)
Shimano 6700 pedals
Old Williams 30mm aluminum rear wheel w. Continental GP4000 tires
Old Campy Zonda front wheel

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Oregon Ducks Custom Painted Jack Kane: http://kanebikes.com/...l-bike-galleries/787
http://www.kanebikes.com/ || Road & Triathlon Bicycles. Custom Painting. Carbon Repair. Restoration. HQ'd in North Carolina

My Blue Triad SL is just under 17 for the large frame with Red 22 and Reynolds Strike SLGs. It feels lighter than my old Felt DA which I never weighed.

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Human Person

Lightweight autobahn disc is a good place to start I guess.

My shiv is like mid 16s, if memory serves.....with disc and di2. I can weigh it tomorrow if I remember.

If you go for a lightweight shallow carbon tub wheel (an eBay special) and add a lightweight disc cover you should be able to hit very close to the claimed 780g for the disc for around 750USD.

If you wanted to really strip the weight out, getting a 20mm tubular rim from eBay and building it yourself could yield something really light.

You could also purchase the rest of the bike with the money saved from not buying the autobahn...

Iain

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Training Full Time in 2015: http://www.triopensource.com
http://www.facebook.com/iaingillamracing http://www.twitter.com/iaingillam
https://www.youtube.com/...9JYCrOLP34Qtgp5w1WsA

My SC is 22lbs and it's way too heavy. I'm running Flo60/90 w/ power2max classic w/ gossamer cranks. I imagine a carbon wheelset, lighter cranks, and a lighter cockpit would get me to where I would be more comfortable, but now, I just ride my 18lbs CAAD10 much more often. ;)

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@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri

I have always been keen to have my TT bike as light as possible and at present have two which fit the bill. One is a Cervelo S5 VWD which is a light road frame but, as it is aero, makes for a good TT bike

The other is a 2015 high modular carbon Cannondale Slice fitted with the lightweight Cannondale SiSL 2 crankset. I am tending towards using the Cannondale as my go-to bike, mainly because the S5 frame cannot handle 25mm tires.

Mine's just shy of 17lbs. Not easy to get it there...

Alloy Cervelo P2k coming in at 17.1 with Sram Force, Bontrager Aeolus tubs and integrated Profile bars. The SLK Light cranks help a bit, but the tubs are huge in the weight department. Sanded the stock paint off and replaced only about half, leaving bare, brushed aluminum for the rest. That helped a bit, too.

agree. my shiv is 16ish also. Dura ace groupset is key and wheels.

Guess my weight

i have a cervelo p4 with sram red 10s, easton attack aerobars, front magura rt6 brake, fizik tritone saddle, rotor power cranks, with some mavic cxr80 wheels it sits on the 7,6kg marc, ~16,8lbs (dont quite remember if i had this with Mavic SLR pedals, probably not, so its 175g more ;)) without bottles of course

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S�rgio Marques
When it hurts is when it feels good ;-)
Sergio-Marques.com

My fastest tt bike weighed 21.5 lb.
I even rode it to high placings at Vuelta da Bisbee hillclimb prologue and Tour of the Gila tt.

This had me curious since so I weighed my road bike and tri bike yesterday. Tri bike with trainer wheel on it not my race wheel was about the same weight as the road bike ~20 each. So I think the tri bike is actually lighter than my road bike consider I had flat stuff on the tri bike and not the road bike

I think my mtb is lighter than both, go figure.

17.92 lbs for a size XL Titanflex.

Key to dropping under 18lbs was a conversion to single chainring (removing front derailluer and shifter) and using a 44T wide/narrow tooth front chainring for chain retention (no droped chains ever to date), SRAM 10speed return to center shifter, and SRAM XX Mtn. Bike Rear Derailluer and 11x36T Cassette. Light Wheels (Rolf Vigor SL) and 3T Handle/Aerobars help offset a relatively heavy Aluminum and Ti framset. Tiago Spyder Twin Tail Saddle is very light and wheels / tires are setup Tubeless. Can be set up 50g (0.11lbs) lighter if I switch out the 11x36 cassette for my SRAM Red 11x28 cassette for flat events.

One of my next projects will be a 1x11 setup. Just a bit tricky with Rotor Q-rings. I will need to make a good chain watcher that is both light and aero.

My Felt IA, 21.5lbs. Fast though.

Remember that even if there is elevation change, if the climbs are not 6%+, it makes very little difference.

I tried it, even tried filing the teeth to see if they would stay on (old set of rings) Basically didn't work, you may have better luck but if it is only for weight savings then you will still need an FD and won't save much.

I went with a Wolf 50 and red X10 in the back at 11-28, love it.

No drops and even had a pretty big crash in Victoria 70.3 without a drop, I put a cork from my favourite wine where the other shifter went.

"Carnivore" reminds me why I train ;-)

Maurice

It seems SRAM is well down the line on the 11x1 road.

http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/...oad-groupsets-166520

My motivation to ditch the FD comes from a post on slowtwitch by one of the founders of Cervelo (Vroomen or White, can't remember). Anyway in his post he was saying that the increase in drag from the front dérailleur was just about equal to the decrease in drag they got from the curved and aero shaped seat tube on the original P3C (though I am not sure what type of seat tube they were using as a baseline). So I figure ditching the FD is maybe worth about 250 grams in weight and 2-6 watts of drag (the Shiv TT has about 3-4 inches of exposed cable housing for the derailluers, so 6 watts seems like a reasonable upper bound).

51cm Slice, SRAM Red, Easton Attack TT, Reynolds a Strike SLG, Speedplay... 16.4lbs

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UOFT

Grumpier Mike,

What size of cassette do you use with your single ring and do you find that hills causes an issue with your performance?

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BoulderCyclingCoach.com

15 lbs

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"injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere" MLK

Sweet setup! How'd you get it so light? The Cat Cheetah website quotes a typical build is 18lbs. (8,000 to 8,3000 grams per the website)

Rockdude, I'll chime in with my experiance running a 1x10 setup. I'm running a 44T WolfTooth Components wide/narrow chainring (for excellent chain retention) with a wide ratio 11x36 cassette (SRAM XX). This gives me the same climbing gear as a compact crank (50/34) and 11x28 cassette combo. The downside to my 44T and 11x36 combo is I give up some top speed beyond 34 mph and I loose the tighter gear spacing of a smaller cassette (I'll occasionally run a SRAM Red 11x28 cassette for flatter courses).

The wide ratio 10 speed SRAM XX 11x36 cassette works well on a course with lots of rolling hills as a single shift produces a noticeable change in gearing whereas a tighter cassette often requires 2 shifts to an easier gear to grab the gear needed on shorter punchy climbs and I'll repeat that that 44 x 36 creates a climbing ratio nearly the same as 34 x 28 so you can climb just about anything on the road.

In my estimation a great solution will be an 11 speed setup using a 44T front and a 10x36 cassette. This would give the climbing capability of a compact groupset and more than enough top-end.

FYI - I have a 1x11 SRAM XX1 groupset on my Mountain Bike (32T crank and 10x42 cassette) and its a thing of beauty - amazing shift performance and I've never dropped a chain! I'm really looking forward to SRAM's pending 1x11 Road Groupsets!!!!!

What about jumping to a 46 on the front. Might be a bit nicer and more like a 34/25.

It is a small frame, probably helps. Also, Di2 (only one) twist grip magura hydraulics, cat cranks (rediculously light), carbon chain rings, cat seat (70 grams), samson cassette (77 grams), zed tech wheels. Thanks for asking!

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"injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere" MLK

I live in Bloomington, Indiana which is all hills and curves (very fun riding!). The hills are typically about 1/4 mile long with 200 to 300' elevation (many spots over 10% grade).

Given that I chose 44T for easier climbing. I studied the 46T very closely and if my terrain was a little flatter I would have chosen a 46T.

I often coast downhill around 45mph on the hills around Bloomington so downhill speed takes care of itself via gravity! (no need to pedal at 45+ mph!)

Losing the fd will save little to no weight if you go from red to force. (No red 1x11).
2 watts maybe, 6w for a fd seems very high.

I am using a 54 in front and I swap back and forth between 11-23, 11-25, and 11-27. I did a TT last week that had a big hill of roughly a mile length. I don't know the grade, by I went down it at 58.8 mph and back up around low teens at 330 watts. So let's say 6-7% max grade. I thought the 11-27 was just fine. Anything steeper or longer and I tend to ride a road bike with clip-ons and a 50/34 crankset.

One big reason for riding a single ring is that I find that I lose a lot of momentum if I have to drop from the big to small ring on a climb, so trying to accelerate to get back up to speed really kills me. I am better off relying on the read dérailleur to adjust cadence. Maybe a Di2 setup would make the shift quick enough, but I don't have that kind of cash.

On my Titanflex (pictured above in this thread) I dropped 207g or 0.46lbs going to single chainring. Here's the details:

+50g rear cassette from SRAM Red 11x28 to SRAM XX 11x36
+38g rear derailluer from SRAM Red to SRAM XX mid cage
-83g delete front Derailluer SRAM Red
-147g deleting SRAM RTC left shifter, cable and housing
-65g chainrings - delete SRAM Red 50/34 rings and replace with single 44T wide narrow WolfTooth ring

Note - My chain length stayed the same at 104 links so no savings there

2011 Trek SC 7, Size Large, Aeolus 5 ACC Wheels, SRAM Red, Zipp Vuka Aero Bar, 20.5 lb, not very light...

Hello sergio and All,

How is the Rotor Power Crank setup working?

I am thinking about those for my next bike ...................

Maybe start out with the one crank setup and add the other crank later.

.

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Cheers, Neal

+1 mph Faster

mine has been working well for 2 year

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=====================================
S�rgio Marques
When it hurts is when it feels good ;-)
Sergio-Marques.com