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just curious... bike tech topics
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Do any of the rest of you read some of the technical bike posts in the main forum, and think 'what the heck are they talking about?' I just read Dan's article on wheels, and the post, and I just feel stupid, because I have one set of wheels, I race on them, I train on them (not that I wouldn't like to have some nice race wheels), I've never broken a spoke in all my years of riding. I would like to understand more of the bike tech talk, but it usually starts over my head, so I feel like there is no hope.

I guess I feel pretty good that I can change tires, adjust the deraileurs, make small fit adjustments. But there is so much more to know.

Maybe we could recruit some of the bike techies to write some really dumbed-down posts or articles for us so we can actually learn and understand some of this stuff.
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [cstine] [ In reply to ]
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Well, if you can adjust the deraileurs, you're a step ahead of me! I've tried. I've just given up. I need "Bike Maintenance for Dummies". Seriously!
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [cstine] [ In reply to ]
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This is a great idea, I will send a PM to slowman and Herbert about it.
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [cstine] [ In reply to ]
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I never read them, but since riding on the track, I've had to learn how to swap out gears and change the chain.

But honestly, that's what my bike shop guys are for.

clm

clm
Nashville, TN
https://twitter.com/ironclm | http://ironclm.typepad.com
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [cstine] [ In reply to ]
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Ladies, Herbert would like some examples of topics that we would like presented in a non-technical manner.
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [trailbait] [ In reply to ]
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How to do the same tune-up the bike shop charges me for. Maybe turn it into a series. I love my LBS but if I am in a pinch I'd like to be able to run through a quick tune-up on my own.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Jen

"In order to keep a true perspective on one's importance, everyone should have a dog that worships him and a cat that will ignore him." - Dereke Bruce
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [trailbait] [ In reply to ]
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I will go through some of the tech topics that I have had trouble understanding and find things I'd like described in a more elementary way.


And I understand CLM's point, I do use my LBS to do work on my bike if its beyond me, but that doesn't mean I don't want to understand what they are doing, and ask intelligent questions when I have them do work, or when I want to purchase some new gear.
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [trailbait] [ In reply to ]
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I'd LOVE to know how to adjust the gearing between my race wheels and my training wheels! If my race wheels are on and shift right, the shifting is off when I put my training wheels back on. I've tried to watch the guys at the LBS do it (and even had one of them sort of show me) and I just can't seem to get it right.
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [Nemostrin] [ In reply to ]
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I second the point about knowing how to adjust derailleurs when you change wheels or cassettes. I don't like having to depend on the LBS all the time for this easy change, and it makes it easier for race day decisions.
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [jenhs] [ In reply to ]
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seattle ladies, i will tuneup/fix your bikes for beer or vegan baked goods. just sayin'

I will also happily teach anyone anything about fixing their own bike.

__________________________________________________

my severely neglected blog
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [cstine] [ In reply to ]
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The range of technical knowledge is quite wide and that is true for the main forum too. What Jess here suggested is a great starting point. Most areas know have growing women's cycling teams and organizations and that is a great place to get your feet wet. In these groups there is always someone more experienced who is willing to share knowledge.

Plus your local bike shops should not be seen as the "enemy." Some bike shop owners just may need a little nudge. Get a few ladies together and see if the shop won't hold a specific women's series of clinics to do some basic maintenance etc. They can most likely get local press too and drive more women to the store.

But to go back to the question at hand. Give us a few more thoughts what you'd like to see.

Herbert
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [FeS] [ In reply to ]
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In Reply To:
I second the point about knowing how to adjust derailleurs when you change wheels or cassettes. I don't like having to depend on the LBS all the time for this easy change, and it makes it easier for race day decisions.

http://www.parktool.com/.../readhowto.asp?id=64

the parktool website is always quite good for this sort of howto, in the end though it's practice-practice-practice just like everything else: first time you try it you'll take half an hour and be frustrated, 2nd time maybe 20 minutes, and so on. A bike mechanic might take a minute to do this, but then again I can do it for free and learning new things is always good to do. If you get to a point where you really can't figure it out you can always pack up the bike and take it to the store, which is what you'd have done in the first place, so no harm/no foul...
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [Herbert] [ In reply to ]
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In Reply To:
Get a few ladies together and see if the shop won't hold a specific women's series of clinics to do some basic maintenance etc.

I think I have seen a few stores around here do basic bike maintenance clinics (not women specific) on the other hand if you don't frequent the store it's kind of hard to know because they usually are not super advertised...
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [Herbert] [ In reply to ]
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I can talk to the owner of the shop I work at about doing something like this. I'd be happy to spend an afternoon working with some womens on improving their mechanical skills.

__________________________________________________

my severely neglected blog
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [Herbert] [ In reply to ]
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Yes, my local bike shop is always willing to help even a slightly ignorant person like myself with any advice I need, questions I have, going over maintenance they do, or show me how to do something myself.

But I don't just drop by my lbs every day, like I do slowtwitch! SO I like to read the articles, maybe I will learn something. Many things I would never eventhink to ask my lbs if I was there, because they are questions that just pop up when I read something.

Example: from the wheels article, as I read, I had these questions: why is hand built cheaper than factory built - seems backwards to me what is laced 20f/24r (ok I figured this out, but it was pure luck, because I had to read it 5 times before I got it) regular J-bend spokes? their goal is to stay round, and straight, true, and in dish (what does 'in dish' mean?) The tire makes a U-shape instead of a hoop-shape (pic please - I can't picture what a hoop shaped tire looks like on a rim) related main forum post: from http://forum.slowtwitch.com/gforum.cgi?post=1979051;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unread#unread from the post: Here's what handbuilt training wheels say: "I'm serious about training, and will use the most reliable and readily repairable wheels I can. In the rare event that I break a spoke 50 miles from home, I'll loosen my brake calipers and ride on. And if you are with me when your wheel tacos when you break one of those 20 bladed aero spokes, I'll ride on while you get out the cell phone to call the missus."

Here's what the machine built and race wheels say, "I'm new to this and don't have enough miles in the saddle to have been stranded with broken spokes and taco-ed wheels. Those fancy low-spoke count wheels look fancier and therefore must be better, and, most importantly, I want to look good."

my question: why does handbuilt say I can break a spoke, loosen my brake calipers and ride on? I don't get it? I know I could ask on the post, but I'm just using this as an example of how many of the tech articles and posts assume a level of expertise, which probably seem obvious to many, but are not. ============== I'd also like to know more about power meters/powertap - I want to know how best to outfit all 3 bikes I own (road, tri, mtb) with a power meter setup, with least cost, but best product. Are their components of a power meter that can switch between bikes, but components that I have to have special for each bike?
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [cstine] [ In reply to ]
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"Why is hand built cheaper than factory built - seems backwards to me."

That most likely depends completely on the quality.



"their goal is to stay round, and straight, true, and in dish (what does 'in dish' mean?)"

In dish means it is correctly centered in between the chainstays, versus sitting too far to the left or the right


"The tire makes a U-shape instead of a hoop-shape (pic please - I can't picture what a hoop shaped tire looks like on a rim)"

If we were to take a cross section out of the rim and tire, it may be better to describe it as a cone shape versus a regular light bulb shape


"I'd also like to know more about power meters/powertap - I want to know how best to outfit all 3 bikes I own (road, tri, mtb) with a power meter setup, with least cost, but best product. Are their components of a power meter that can switch between bikes, but components that I have to have special for each bike?"

I defer this one to someone else.
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [trailbait] [ In reply to ]
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I am trying to replace the chain on my bike now. I am using the old chain as a guide for length but what if I didn't have it anymore. How would I know what length it should be and what is the best/easiest way to shorten it.

Thanks tons
Love this
myshenaniganz
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [Herbert] [ In reply to ]
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"I'd also like to know more about power meters/powertap - I want to know how best to outfit all 3 bikes I own (road, tri, mtb) with a power meter setup, with least cost, but best product. Are their components of a power meter that can switch between bikes, but components that I have to have special for each bike?"

You don't really have any options for MTB'ing that are applicable to the other two. You can get a dedicated MTB SRM crankset or have a MTB rear wheel built around PowerTap's 135mm wide (the width of rear dropouts on a MTB is 135mm vs. 130mm for road bikes) ISO (6-bolt) rotor hub. But in both cases, what you have on your MTB is not going to work on your other bikes. That being said, most people who don't race MTBs for a living probably don't need a powermeter on their mtb. It's just not nearly as beneficial for a whole variety of reasons. So your best bet is really just to get something that would work on your road-going bikes. A powertap sl (wireless) would be the easiest to swap between your bikes. That's what I recommend. You can have it built up onto a more durable rear race wheel that you'd be happy to ride everyday, or you can shell out the cash for a dedicated training wheel and a dedicated race wheel. I'd be happy to give more answers on what the best options are there if you want.


"Non est ad astra mollis e terris via." - Seneca | rappstar.com | FB - Rappstar Racing | IG - @jordanrapp
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [Rappstar] [ In reply to ]
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I didn't think a powermeter would even be useful on my mtb since riding the mtb is so variable in the efforts. But I thought if one could move between all my bikes, it would be a fun thing to have.

But one to switch between the road and tri bike would be great. I'll read up on the powertap sl wireless, and if I have some questions I'll re-reply to your post.

thanks!
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [cstine] [ In reply to ]
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What did you want to know about the PowerTap? I'd be happy to chip in on the effort to help make explanations a bit easier to read.
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [cstine] [ In reply to ]
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Ok, don't have a lot of time to read all of the responses here. gotta pick up my daughter from school. I for one would be thrilled with some tech stuff directed straight to us creative sided thinkers (women). I just purchased a multi-chain tool and have no clue as to how to repair a chain if it snaps. The front derailer I can figure with some book help, buuuut....more help pluuuuuzeee!!!

N~
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [Herbert] [ In reply to ]
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I usually just drop my bike off at my coach's shop or have the BF look at it, but before I had those options and was paying for bike mechanics, I wanted to know:

1. How to adjust the derailleurs
2. how to adjust the brakes (mine were always slightly opened if you left it up to me since all the way closed they rubbed the wheels) so the same pressure on the front and back breaks would cause breaking
3. how to change the chain, when does the chain need changed.
4. I figured out how to change the cassette, but that might be a good idea too.
5. Replacing bar tape is pretty simple if you've seen it done, so that might be a good one too.
6. Last weekend I watched the BF swap out cranks on a bike for me and felt stupid I asked him to do it. It is pretty easy. Not something you'd do all the time, but the week before I was complaining of a creaking bottom bracket and had to take it in for it to be lubed up, something I now know I could have done on my own if necessary.

Also, after 6 months with the powermeter I've finally gotten something out of it. But a primer on riding with power (how to do threshold tests etc..) would be great.

A while ago (last november) bicycling magazine had a 30 day bike care list. It was basically something to tell you to do one thing every day to keep your bike in top shape. At the end of the month you'd cleaned, adjusted, replaced bar tape etc all parts of your bike. I wish I still had the list. I think something like that would be a good idea too. In new cars they give you a guide that says do this maintenance every month, every three months, annually, every 5 years etc. Something like that for bike maintenance would make it really easy to know when to check certain things. I've also gone through 3 headsets on one bike (in 6 years). I have no idea how the mechanics know the headset is bad, or how I should know it's going bad, so a 'test' for certain things would be great too.
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [GhiaGirl] [ In reply to ]
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2nd, 3rd,etc. Would love to pick brains of bike-know-hows per ST Men.......oh my!!!
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [cstine] [ In reply to ]
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In Reply To:
why is hand built cheaper than factory built - seems backwards to me

The reason is that "factory built" refers to different wheels than are typically made by hand. Factory built wheels are usually proprietary rims and hubs that work together, usually with odd spokes that one doesn't normally find at the LBS. You pay a premium for exotica that may or may not be a nightmare to maintain: trying to replace a spoke, the rim, etc. Often these "boutique wheels" have very low spoke counts. What that means, and what Dan's article referred to, is that the forces required to keep the wheel true and under tension are spread over fewer spokes. When one breaks, the forces exerted from neighboring spokes will often make the rim go so out of true (picture a taco) that it won't pass between the brake pads: you can't ride it. These wheels may or may not be made by hand (there are machines that will lace, tension, and true a wheel).

On the other hand, hand built wheels are typically made from off-the-shelf components: standard hubs (Shimano, Campy, etc), standard rims (Mavic, etc.), and standard spokes. Repair is simple and readily available parts make for easy replacement when something goes (and no wheel lasts forever: ideally, the wheel will last until the rim wears out from brake pad wear!). Usually these wheels have "normal" spoke counts: 28, 32, or 36 spokes. When one goes, the wheel likely will go out of true only a little, and at most you'll need to open the brake caliper to provide clearance. Ride home, go to LBS, get a spoke the correct length, put it in yourself, bring it to correct tension so the wheel is true again, stress relieve the spoke, and you're done. "Hand built wheels" may or may not be made by hand, too: I think Colorado Cyclist uses a machine for much of the work, yet one pair of Ultegra hub/Open Pro wheels lasted me for many years before I gave them to my 200+lb friend, who also couldn't hurt or put them out of true.

Bike maintenance isn't rocket surgery. Read up on Park Tool's web site. Check out Sheldon Brown's (hallowed be his name) web site for everything you need to know, from beginning stuff to the most advanced, in a very readable style. Buy Jobst Brandt's "The Bicycle Wheel" for everything you need to know about building and maintaining your wheels.

----------------------------------
"Go yell at an M&M"
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [Old and Haggard] [ In reply to ]
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thank you!


that is all great information!!!

Cheryl
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [cstine] [ In reply to ]
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Great thread!! I agree with all the topics to be discussed. I think Bicycling mag does an article on This is Your (insert bike part). Then does a short discussion.

I think that would be very helpful.

This is your ____
This is what it does
These are the different brands/sizes/types
This is what happens if it breaks/dies on you
This is how you repair it
This is when you should replace it
These are the misconceptions about it

I know that sounds basic, but jumping to advanced topics without the basics will lose me.

We could even have a bike maintenance/repair challenge if the people with all the knowledge would be able to give us a topic a week to work on.

Just my .02





Come crawling faster
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [LovePugs] [ In reply to ]
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This is your HANDLEBAR TAPE

This is what it does:

It wraps the handlebars on your road bike, and the base and aero bars on your tri bike. It covers and tidies the shift and brake cables, and gives something nicer than bare metal to grip when riding.

These are the different brands/sizes/types:
Widely available from many different brands, including handlebar manufacturers such as ITM, FSA, and Cinelli, and in a myriad of colors. Comes in a couple of different materials, including cork and gel padded for comfort. Cinelli do a glow in the dark tape for commuting purposes.

This is what happens if it breaks/dies on you:

You replace it.

This is how you replace it:
Things you will need to change bar tape: Scissors, electrical tape in suitable color, bar tape and end plugs.

  • Ensure the bar is as clean as possible, and that you have removed as much of the debris/glue of the old tape as possible.
  • Ensure that the cables running along the bar are secure. Small strips of electrical tape are ideal for this.
  • Start the roll at the end of the bar. Begin the tape with an overlap of the end of the bar. This overlap will be stuffed in the bar later, and the bar plug wedged in to secure it.
  • The right bar should be wrapped counter-clockwise and the left bar clockwise, when looking from the back of the bike. This is because you naturally pull backwards on the top of the bar, and this wrapping style prevents the tape unwinding.
  • If the tape has an adhesive backing, overlap so the adhesive is on the bar.
  • It helps maintain a tight bar wrap by pulling the tape as you wrap, but too much force in pulling may break the tape. You often need to work the tape by pulling and backing up until it lies down nicely on the bar, especially at the corners. Inspect as you go.
  • There is often a small piece of tape included with the roll, which is used for the brake lever. Pull the lever cover away from the bar and place the tape over the back of the lever, covering the metal securing band. Continue to wrap up and around the small piece and the lever. Replace the lever hood and inspect the tape.
  • Continue to wrap until you reach the point you want to end at. Wrap slightly past this point, and mark the tape where you want the end. Unwrap and cut the tape at your mark. Secure tape to bar with electrical tape, or small strip of securing tape often included in the roll.
  • Push extra material into bar end, and secure using plug, ensuing that the logo is the correct way up.
  • Repeat this procedure with the other side of the bar. Remember to wrap the opposite way.

The Park Tool how-to guide for taping bars is here:

This is when you should replace it:
If it rips, or gets dirty, or you get bored with it, or you re-cable the bike. Whenever you want basically.

These are the misconceptions about it :
Hand comfort can be improved by simple changes to the bar tape. By using gel padded tape, strips of foam under the tape, two layers of tape, or a different tape material, you can tune the feel of your handlebars to your preferences.
It is easy to replace, but takes time to be neat. There is a strange sense of satisfaction about completing a new tape install.
It doesn't have to match the bike.
Soap and water will clean it a treat, and creme cleaner is also good, especially for white tape.



"Here's how you run a marathon. Step 1: You start running. Step 2: There is no step 2." - Barney (How I Met Your Mother)
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [neil_laing] [ In reply to ]
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Thank you! That is absolutely perfect.

I'll be printing this out, and if we get more of these going I might just have a little book to refer to!

Thanks again!





Come crawling faster
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [cstine] [ In reply to ]
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Have you seen any of my sad, pathetic attempts to ask questions about fit and then trying to understand stack and reach? Ha! Wow. I knew what to expect when I posted there...but I guess the ego bruising still hurts. :p


mmm-mmm-Momo Charms
Handmade beverage charms, jewelry, and miscellanea

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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [LovePugs] [ In reply to ]
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No problem.

What would you like to know about next?



"Here's how you run a marathon. Step 1: You start running. Step 2: There is no step 2." - Barney (How I Met Your Mother)
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [neil_laing] [ In reply to ]
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This is your rear derailleur.

This is what it does:
Its primary purpose is to guide the chain on to the rear gears (cogs) so that you can change between them without having to reach down and manually put the chain on a new gear with your hand. Its secondary purpose is to maintain tension on the chain so that when you switch between the small and large chainrings (front gears), the chain doesn't go completely slack and fall off.

These are the different brands/sizes/types:
There are Shimano, Campagnolo and Sram. Each brand typically only works with the same brand shifter because the shifters pull a different amount of cable for each push of the shifter lever. 9 and 10 speed rear derailleurs can be used more or less interchangeably within brands, depending on how fussy you are.

The primary differences between the various levels (e.g. 105, Ultegra, Dura Ace) are the weight and the materials used to cut the weight. Otherwise they perform very similarly and there is little difference in how they feel.

Brits call derailleurs “mechs”.

This is what happens if it breaks/dies on you:
If it happens on a ride you are more or less out of luck. It's very hard to find a gear that allows you to cut the chain down so that you're running a singlespeed. Also, that assumes you’re carrying a chain tool with you on the ride. Typically one gear will be too tight, the other too slack, which will allow the chain to fall off. The best thing to do, if the derailleur is still attached to the bike, is manually bend it so that it lines up with one gear and ride that gear home.

Should your derailleur cable break you can use the limit adjustment screws (the screws on the back of the derailleur labeled H and L on Shimano, on Campy they’re on the bottom of the parallelogram) to fix the derailleur in a gear that is in the middle of the cog so that you don't have to ride home in your 12 (or 11, or whatever your smallest cog is). You can still use the front derailleur in this instance.


This is how you repair it:
There's not much to repair. It works or it doesn't. Here is how to adjust it, starting from scratch.
Thread derailleur into hanger.
Stand behind the bike and turn the screw labeled H till the highest (smallest size) cog and the two pulleys are all in a vertical line.
Install chain. The easiest method is to leave the rear derailleur where it is, thread the chain thru it and over the small ring in the front. Cut the chain so that it is the longest it can be without the chain rubbing the front of the rear derailleur cage.
Thread the cable thru. Grab the very end with pliers and pull with a bit of tension, just enough to take the slack out.
Tighten the bolt down on the cable.
Shift to the middle of the cassette.
Stand behind the bike and see how the derailleur lines up with the gear just above it. If it's to the right of that cog turn the barrel adjuster to the left till it lines up. Do this in quarter turn increments
You should be in the ball park at this point. Shift all the way to the lowest gear. Put your thumb on the part of the derailleur that has the model name on it (called the cage) and push. It should not bang against the spokes or go into them! If it does, tighten (turn clockwise) the screw labeled L till it no longer does that while you push with your thumb.
At this point just run thru the gears (up and down) and make adjustments as needed. If it won't shift up (easier gears) turn the barrel adjust counterclockwise (eg the direction it is having trouble shifting). If it won't shift down (harder gears) turn the barrel adjust clockwise (e.g. the direction it is having trouble shifting)

There is a small screw near the derailleur hanger bolt that is called the B tension screw. The best thing to do is screw it all the way in if you have a small cassette (eg 21 or 23 as your top gear), screw it half way if you have a 25 or 26 and screw it all the way out if you have anything bigger.


This is when you should replace it:

Other than a stick or getting caught in a wheel derailleur tend to die a slow death as they get more and more worn which allows play in them. You can wiggle the bottom of the derailleur back and forth to and away from the bike to see how much play there is. There should be virtually none. The more there is, the less precise your shifting is.

These are the misconceptions about it:
That the limit screws have anything to do with shifting. The limit screws simply set the boundaries for how far the derailleur can go. It in no way affects the derailleur as it changes gears.
A quarter turn is the most you should turn the barrel adjuster for any given adjustment. Turn it, try it and repeat. Small changes.
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [cstine] [ In reply to ]
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SRAM'S web site http://www.willyoumaketheleap.com has some excellent videos on how to install and set up all of their components. Just click on the "service" tab on the upper right hand of the screen to view the vids.

The "repair and how to" section of Park tools web site has a ton of info as well, but no videos. http://www.parktool.com

I used both sites for repair info when I bulit up my first bike with fantastic results.

Youtube is a gold mine when it comes to bike build up vids as well.
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [myshenaniganz] [ In reply to ]
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Slowman posted a decent article on chain length recently. Basically, you would want your chain to span the range of gears on your bike. The chain should be probably two links longer than needed to work on the large chainring (outermost) and largest sprocket in the cassette (innermost). It should also be short enough that when you are in the smallest chainring and smallest sprocket in the cassette, there is enough tension on the derailleur cage (the part of the rear derailleur with the two pulleys) to prevent the chain from riding on itself (ie. the cage would be pointing directly back and/or up instead of angled slightly down).

It gets a little more complicated when you are changing wheels or cassettes, with regard to the length of the derailleur cage. There are different derailleur cage lengths which accommodate different gear combinations. Rear derailleur capacity tells you what sort of gearing you can use based on the formula: (teeth of largest chainring - teeth of smallest chainring) + (teeth of largest sprocket - teeth of smallest sprocket). For example if you're running a 53-39 crankset and a 11-23 cassette, you would get (53-39) + (23-11) = 26. I don't remember what the recommended limit for a short cage derailleur, but mine works ok up to (53-39) + (27-12) = 29. The small chainring and smallest sprocket do not work optimally, but I don't use this combo since it is "cross-chaining." The longer the rear derailleur cage, the greater the gear range which is why you usually see medium and long cages on triple cranksets. If you don't know what cross-chaining means, it's a condition where you're either using the large chaining and large sprocket or small chainring and small sprocket. It results in a less than optimal chain line which means the chain is excessively skewed relative to the chainrings/sprockets which will prematurely wear the chain, cassette and chainrings. I hope this helps and that I didn't go wildly out of control. There is a lot to know about chain length and which cassettes can be swapped in or out.
Last edited by: scarbelly: Nov 25, 08 15:22
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [cstine] [ In reply to ]
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I started by knowing nothing about bikes. This blissful ignorance did not deter me from building bikes (2 road, one tri, starting with the bare frame each time) using Sheldon Brown's website, rec.bicycles.tech, and Lennard Zinn's book. They run, mostly.

Zinn and Sheldon both write well and amusingly, so quite easy to read. Zinn now has one on tri bikes as well, with an entire chapter on how to travel with your bike.

rec.bicycles.tech is a bit superannuated, but searching its archives can find answers to the most recondite of bike questions. Of course you'll have to read critically as there's a lot of unhinged ranting as well; but anyone from slowtwitch.com is used to that ;-)
Last edited by: doug in co: Dec 4, 08 10:26
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [doug in co] [ In reply to ]
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I've been considering trying to build a bike on my own, just as a learning experience. I guess if I could do it on the cheap I would try.
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [cstine] [ In reply to ]
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here's how I went about building the bikes:
frame from ebay or the classifieds here or the roadbikereview classifieds or Chuck's bikes
I got a Trek 2500 frame/fork for $200, a Paramount PDG steel frame/fork for $175 - actually this was an entire bike, but it had been ridden hard and put away wet, so had to be rebuilt.
parts similarly can be had from those sites. Also, keep an eye on the Nashbar sales, everything you need to build a bike will go on sale there at some point in the year. For the last build, reincarnating the Trek as a road bike instead of a tri race bike:
Nashbar:
compact crank $50 and Isis BB $18
1" threaded Modulo stem $10 and lightweight Modulu bars $14
JensonUSA:
105 FD $18, 105 drillium cassette 9sp $28
ebay:
Ultegra RD $20
DuraAce barends 9sp $40
wheels - I've heard nothing but good things about Performance's Titan wheelset, usually $100-150, wait for the sale as usual: or scrounge around in the classifieds etc for the 'handbuilt' wheels already mentioned, typically with Mavic or Velocity rims and Shimano hubs.

If you have time to wait for the deals to show up on sales or ebay, it needn't be expensive at all. Kinda fun if you like tinkering, too.
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [doug in co] [ In reply to ]
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Thank you Doug! This is great. My husband said he would help me (I'd build it, he'd just help when needed - he's a car guy, so even though he has not built a bike, he's quite capable with tools), and a good friend has built several and said he'd help too. This is so great! I've been thinking about it, I guess I just needed a push and with winter coming and a few more free hours on the weekends, it would be a great project for me to learn from - plus I get a new bike out of it!

Cheryl
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [cstine] [ In reply to ]
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Ditch the husband, keep the friend. My experience as a mechanic is that guys who think they are handy are not. I'd say 30-50% of my job was to dig those guys out.
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [cstine] [ In reply to ]
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You should definitely try it! I built up my first bike about 5 years ago, and it was such a worthwhile experience! I made tons of (minor) mistakes, it took forever, I had to do a few things two or three times to get it right, but once it was finished, it was great! Now there's very little work I can't do on my bike, given enough time. That first build gave me the confidence that I can maintain my bikes. I remind myself that bikes are simple machines, and if I could maintain an x-ray diffractometer, certainly I can maintain a bike!

I've been thinking about rebuilding my Cervelo RS over the weekend -- I've realized that I'm not a big fan of SRAM (heresy, I know) -- and this thread has inspired me to do it! Thanks, OP!
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [cstine] [ In reply to ]
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Give it a go, it's easier than you think.
Single speed or fixed gears are by far and away the easiest type of bike to build.
Tri bikes are next, as the separate gear and brake levers make setup a doddle.
Anything with STI or similar is the hardest, but only because it looks complicated. In reality it is no different to a tri bike.



"Here's how you run a marathon. Step 1: You start running. Step 2: There is no step 2." - Barney (How I Met Your Mother)
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Re: just curious... bike tech topics [neil_laing] [ In reply to ]
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For those that are complete beginners to bike maintenance I suggest you start by learning to wash and lube your bike. It sounds like a pretty basic task but when done correctly it will keep your bike running well for most of the season.
As a shop owner I find that my and my wife's bikes are the last to get serviced, but I do make sure they are cleaned and lube on a regular basis. This is not an ideal maintenance schedule but it keeps our machines running smoothly for most of the season.
The bikes will require the odd small tweak here and there which is what I would suggest you learn next. This is often in the form of a cable tension adjustment of either the brakes or gears. On most bikes this is done by simply turning a barrel adjuster one of two directions.
Both the brakes and gears of your bike operate using cables under tension. Think about an elastic band stretched between your fingers. Turning the barrel adjuster is like moving your fingers closer or farther apart. Once you learn which direction has which effect you can start to tweak your own cable tension.
You can see this quite easily when adjusting your brakes. Begin by turning the barrel adjuster on the brake caliper one direction and watch how the pads move closer or farther away from your rims. That is all there is to tightening your brakes as your cables stretch.
Your gears are a little more complicated and would be better described using pictures. The brakes will get you started though.
Other than that make sure you find an LBS that you trust and take your bike in on a yearly basis for a complete servicing. Not just a basic tune up "A FULL SERVICE".
I hope this helps.

Owner of Gears and Grinds - Bike/Tri Shop
http://www.gearsandgrinds.com
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