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Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike
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Anyone here riding one? I just picked a new one up a few weeks ago. I love the bike, feels great, etc...but I wanted to compare notes. I like everything about the bike except two things. First, the arm rests suck, so I replaced them with a Profile Design carbon arm rest kit. Wonderful.

Second, these behind the wheel TRP TT brakes are a nightmare and temperamental as well with very tight clearance tolerances. My tech and I finally go the front one working right. But the back brake, in my opinion, has a serious flaw on behalf of Fuju. Basically, the cable runs through the left brake lever, though the right (on the drive train side), and the cable comes out of the side of the lever, has to be bent around, sheathed with a plastic tube, and zip tied. The problem is that the space between where that cable exits and the small chain ring is a matter of millimeters! Any slight misadjustment on the right brake lever, and that cable/tube covering rubs the small chain ring. We thought I had it it fixed, then did a 108 mile ride yesterday..and the thing rubbed and chirped like a cricket and whole way. I re-adjusted it, but I'm wondering if anyone has done any mods to the brake system to work around this. Two thing came to mind. 1) clip the cable directly at where it exists. That would work, but then if you have to adjust the tension of the cable, you basically have to put on a new cable. 2) File or wear the brake pads down and then adjust the levers so that they are closer to the wheel, thus creating more space between where the brake cable exits and the small chain ring. Other ideas are most welcome. Again, great bike and fits and feels really well, but this brake thing has to be addressed.

Kris
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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [krispenhartung] [ In reply to ]
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I don't know anything about your brake, but on my Kestrel 4000 I left the cable long and looped it around back to itself and tied it with a small zip tie. Might work for you.

---------------------------
''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law
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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [Sweeney] [ In reply to ]
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Yup, that is how it is on mine. The problem is that the space that the cable take where it exits the hole and loops back on itself, is too close to the small chain ring.
Here is a pic of it, underneath the bike. Perhaps if the cable were softer or smaller in diameter, then it could be pulled back tighter and kept away from the small chain ring. Here, it is not touching because I readjusted the brake this morning.


https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/11137163_702366146563244_8768757826122828928_n.jpg?oh=fb0d516bbf2ae93ab67b514bd2cc28bb&oe=563053E2
Last edited by: krispenhartung: Jun 21, 15 14:48
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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [krispenhartung] [ In reply to ]
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Looking at your picture and this one:


I think you could reverse the cabling. The noodle would bend over tightly, maybe giving you clearance. Maybe?

---------------------------
''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law
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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [Sweeney] [ In reply to ]
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You know, that might just work, because the way the brake lever is designed, as you move away from it, it curves slightly inward away from the small chain ring, which would provide more clearance. Yet where it rubs is right at where it exits the lever at the bend, so I'm not sure. I would have to figure out what to attach the noodle too...maybe rig something up that relies on one of the allan nuts holding the bottom bracket cap. Worth a try at least.
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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [krispenhartung] [ In reply to ]
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Yes to all.
Replaced arm rests). Brake has been a major
Major major pain. I spoke to trp, they did say there is
Something new and improved brewing but not yet
So maybe I can get a new set to replace later.
Meanwhile have the front brake kind of wide... It did get better after 300 miles from the wear on the pads.
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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [Sweeney] [ In reply to ]
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I have a Jamis Comet, TRP brakes, I have reversed the rear so the cable comes out the non drive side and it seems to work a bit better. I hate the brakes though, so hard to adjust, right now I am working with almost no hard stopping power.

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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [Bypasskid] [ In reply to ]
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Good to know. I'll be waiting for the new ones and in the mean time just become a master at adjusting brakes on the fly :-)


Bypasskid wrote:
Yes to all.
Replaced arm rests). Brake has been a major
Major major pain. I spoke to trp, they did say there is
Something new and improved brewing but not yet
So maybe I can get a new set to replace later.
Meanwhile have the front brake kind of wide... It did get better after 300 miles from the wear on the pads.
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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [jw67] [ In reply to ]
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Hey, that's a brilliant idea. Why didn't TRP think of that? Anything popping out on the drive train side should be forbidden.

jw67 wrote:
I have a Jamis Comet, TRP brakes, I have reversed the rear so the cable comes out the non drive side and it seems to work a bit better. I hate the brakes though, so hard to adjust, right now I am working with almost no hard stopping power.
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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [krispenhartung] [ In reply to ]
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I am embarresed that it took me a year to figure that out as a self proclaimed cheapskate aero weenie. I used to zip tie the cable to the frame then as I was re lubing the brakes it came to me. BTW be sure to lube the bottom mounted brakes frequently or they get all frozen from road grime.

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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [jw67] [ In reply to ]
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Just recently purchased a 2015 1.1. Have about 400 miles on it. Riding it completely stock as delivered out of the box except for tire tubes . First, for the money , I absolutely love this bike . In fact, although my first tri specific bike, and Fuji product, as compared to my Scott Foil Team with DA Di2 and custom Moots Compact SL with DA9000 Mechanical, the 1.1 is right there if not in some ways superior in terms of handling, balance, ride quality and build quality. Also, both frames once built up , where significantly more expensive than my Norcom Straight 1.1. I have also owned a couple of high end LOOK Frames in the past so have a good sense of top quality frames. Anyway, had some initial brake rubbing
but with some fine tuning and mileage it seems to have subsided. No other issues with the TRP brakes. Stopping power appears more than adequate and they seem to play well with the Oval Concept carbon clinchers. BTW, this bike is faaaast!
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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [krispenhartung] [ In reply to ]
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I just bent the cable a bit sharply then zip-tied it to the caliper arm. Yeah, it's still not a lot of clearance, but it's not like you're going to be able to flex the frame or chainrings enough that contact occurs. (Although it does occur to me that I'm using standard-width wheels...perhaps you've got some newer fatty wheels on yours, and so have your brake set wider?)

BTW, make sure that the springs are on the correct side (they aren't identical), and that you've adjusted them for maximum tension...
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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [krispenhartung] [ In reply to ]
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krispenhartung wrote:
Yup, that is how it is on mine. The problem is that the space that the cable take where it exits the hole and loops back on itself, is too close to the small chain ring.
Here is a pic of it, underneath the bike. Perhaps if the cable were softer or smaller in diameter, then it could be pulled back tighter and kept away from the small chain ring. Here, it is not touching because I readjusted the brake this morning.


https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/11137163_702366146563244_8768757826122828928_n.jpg?oh=fb0d516bbf2ae93ab67b514bd2cc28bb&oe=563053E2

So after looking at that picture: why do you have the plastic tubing over the cable at that point? It isn't serving any purpose other than making the cable larger in diameter (thus making contact more likely) and possibly causing the cable to slip through the clamp (unless you've tightened the clamp down to the point that it completely bit through the plastic).

ETA: One other tip: if you put another washer between the brake pad and brake arm one each side, the "bottom" (back) of the brake arms will have to be further apart, making the "top" (front) closer together. That will give you more clearance next to the chainring.
Last edited by: Andrew Coggan: Jun 23, 15 7:46
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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [Andrew Coggan] [ In reply to ]
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That's a good question. The tech at the shop put the tubing over the cable, and I can't quite remember the reasoning. I think it had something to do with allowing movement, because those noodles tend to get stiff and bind the brakes up...that's what I've experienced so far. But on second thought I'd rather have the plastic rub against my chain ring than wire. I like the washer idea. Thanks.
Kris



Andrew Coggan wrote:
krispenhartung wrote:
Yup, that is how it is on mine. The problem is that the space that the cable take where it exits the hole and loops back on itself, is too close to the small chain ring.
Here is a pic of it, underneath the bike. Perhaps if the cable were softer or smaller in diameter, then it could be pulled back tighter and kept away from the small chain ring. Here, it is not touching because I readjusted the brake this morning.


https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/11137163_702366146563244_8768757826122828928_n.jpg?oh=fb0d516bbf2ae93ab67b514bd2cc28bb&oe=563053E2


So after looking at that picture: why do you have the plastic tubing over the cable at that point? It isn't serving any purpose other than making the cable larger in diameter (thus making contact more likely) and possibly causing the cable to slip through the clamp (unless you've tightened the clamp down to the point that it completely bit through the plastic).

ETA: One other tip: if you put another washer between the brake pad and brake arm one each side, the "bottom" (back) of the brake arms will have to be further apart, making the "top" (front) closer together. That will give you more clearance next to the chainring.
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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [jw67] [ In reply to ]
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jw67 wrote:
I have a Jamis Comet, TRP brakes, I have reversed the rear so the cable comes out the non drive side and it seems to work a bit better. I hate the brakes though, so hard to adjust, right now I am working with almost no hard stopping power.

in the same boat. TRP has new brakes out but REFUSED to work with me as my brakes are not defective (per their customer service). When I inquired as to why they are not
defective since the keep rubbing against my rims EVERY TIME I got no real explanation save for "play with it". IMHO TRP brakes are AWFUL. Their customer service is subpar at best, and I will NEVER buy another bike with these brakes.
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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [Bypasskid] [ In reply to ]
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Anyone have any non-Oval concepts aero/base bar that they recommend going with? I hate that, even with a 1.3, there are tons of cables every and obviously the pads suck.
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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [lambdatri1049] [ In reply to ]
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When I had my norcom I put Vuka pads and extentions on them, HUGE improvement

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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [lambdatri1049] [ In reply to ]
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lambdatri1049 wrote:
Anyone have any non-Oval concepts aero/base bar that they recommend going with? I hate that, even with a 1.3, there are tons of cables every and obviously the pads suck.

Pads are awful but profile design will work with you since
It's a poor design and they are aware of that. I kept the bar but
May change if I ever score a vuka
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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [lambdatri1049] [ In reply to ]
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The first thing I did was replace my whole setup with a 3T Brezza II. Now over the past year I've gone to Zipp Vulka cradles with CeeGee's pads and Zipp ski bend extensions. However, my cables certainly aren't a mess. I've been eyeing the new Zipp basebar as well and thinking of getting one over the winter.
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Re: Fuji Norcom Straight 1.3 Tri/TT Bike [skullyrush] [ In reply to ]
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is it possible to mount the dI2 junction box inside the stem?
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