Could it be you are tightening them on differently? Are they the same height (the part that covers the steerer)?

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Two wheels good. Four wheels bad.

I think so.. When I undo all 3 bolts, the headset has it freedom to move as it should, when I tighten it feels harder to move it

what order are you tightening them in? I am no bike mechanic, but maybe tighten the top cap first, quite gently, only so that there is no up/down play in the fork/steerer, but it still spins easily, then tighten the bolts of the stem itself, recheck the play, and then tighten down the top cap, if necessary.

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Two wheels good. Four wheels bad.

Im doing the top cap then the 2 bolts at side..

Ive done them quite loose, and the freedom is there, but its now loose enough for the stem to move if i hold the wheel between my legs if you know what i mean

If there are the same height there should be no difference except than feel. Installing the stem you tight the top cap lightly til the headset doesn't play around but the steerer moves like you are used to. After that you tighten the other ones with the torque recommended on the stem. After that there is no difference in tightening or even removing the top screw.

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-shoki

Little differences won't be seen in the pictures but why don't flip the stem to get rid of the ton of spacers once you nailed your position.

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-shoki

hip angle will be too closed I have my saddle slammed back to rotate my pelvis forward, my back is horizontal in drops any lower will hit hit my thighs in my chest

If the stem headset is stiff will it be ok for riding for the time being until i get it checked out, It was moving fine at the start of the ride, then I noticed it was stiffer at the end

You can play with that tool a little http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php

But that's not the reason for you posting.

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-shoki

Just a question, why is it people move there saddle to rotate there hips forward, If I move my seat forward, I have to flex my back more (posterior tilt)

I hope this is not too obvious, but do you know exactly how to adjust a threadless headset (the kind that is on your bike) ?

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
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I have always tightend the middle bolt then the 2 stem bolts that seems to have always done the job..

Bingo.


The middle bolt (I assume you're talking about the fixing bolt for the top cap) does not get "tightened", it is the critical bolt for adjusting the bearing preload. How do you decide how tight that bolt should be? If you're not absolutely sure of this answer, hit some Park Tool videos on youtube for guidance, you'll be an expert in a couple of minutes.

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
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Think ive sorted it.. I loosen the top cap bolt, then tighten the 2 stem bolts now it moves freely, while the stem stays in line with the wheel when I try force it a bit

I thought I'd be stuck with 1 or the other

Never had that problem with the 140 stem

thanks all

No worries, but, when you can, definitely learn how to adjust your headset the right way.
Very easy to do on youtube.

Your headset will last much, much longer, and it will work perfectly.
Instead of binding frequently (when too tight), or slamming back and forth (when too loose).
Because both of these conditions will kill your headset mighty quick ...

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
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