Saddle looks a bit high as you have pointed out, and your elbows could come back a bit, looks stretched out. As for anything else to comment on in the photos...too many spacers and what is that "thing" your chain is resting on in the front, it sure doesn't look like the big chain ring!

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I got nothing.

You'll find it a lot easier to adjust the resistance on your mag trainer if you put the adjustment lever on your HB.

;^)

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Chicago Cubs - 2016 WORLD SERIES Champions!!!!

"If ever the time should come, when vain and aspiring men shall possess the highest seats in government, our country will stand in need of its experienced patriots to prevent its ruin." - Samuel Adams

I let my wife have the adjuster hidden behind the corner to surprise me with changes.

The chain on the small ring has a very thought-through reason. Outside, in the summer, I'm usually doing above 30km/h. So on the trainer I run the gearing at something else, 15-25km/h typically, to place the wear on different chain ring/sprockets.

Spacers: Yes, but should I try and get lower?

I like the helmet. I don't think I've ever seen one of those before. What make/model is it?

Definitely lower the seat a little, and remove the spacer under the stem to match. It looks like there is one left?

It's a Bell Alchera, http://www.bellsports.com/.../pavement/alchera-eu but it seems to be sold in EU only.

Thanks, I thought I had found my next helmet, but I guess not if I can't even get one. Hmm.. I'm half swede.. maybe I can import one? LOL. Does it happen to have a CPSC sticker in it?

EDIT: Found them at Nashbar! Sorry about the thread hijack.

To me, the bike is sweet. If you want to do anything to improve it, get better/more aero wheels.

The main problems I see are with your position. 1. Distance from seat tip to center of of handle bar ought to be greater. Your back hump/head up the arch in your upper back + neck craned upward so much = neck and upper back pain in the long, if not short, run. Even if your position feels comfortable now I'd get a stem 1 cm longer and take the same profile photos to see if you can flatten it out and I mean from the not needing to start seeing the chiropractor regulary perspective as opposed to the more aero perspective. If the hump is still so pronounced try 2cm. I couldn't tell until you were in more of a flat back position whether I thought that the stem should have more rise, which it may to deal with how craned your neck is.

Also, I think your leg is too extended at 6 o'clock, which is unnatural for the knee joint and may well lead to knee problems because of what you're asking your knee tendons to do - push and pull the cranks at the bottom of the stroke, which is your legs job. While you may think that gives more pedal for each turn of the crank, shorter will allow you to turn it over faster and in a position that is more tenable. I think this is especially a problem for a triathelete who's working the knees so hard running and repetitively anway in a much different/more natural angle. So, I'd start with the rule of thumb for seat height, which is warm your legs up on the trainer, stop pedalling, take a foot out of a cleat, put the pedal on that at side at 6 o'clock and reach your heel to the pedal. It should touch the flat part of the pedal at the spindle with your leg extended (stay straight up on the bike), then do itfor the other foot. The foot to set is the on our shorter leg. Adjust your saddle downward accordingly. I'd tri that for a bit but I think that - given the amount of running - you ought to be able to set it so that you can firmly (not bent leg firmly) put the heel to the pedal at six o'clock as opposed to just touching. I'd ride it there for a while - a couple hundred K/ a couple weeks anyway - unless you get knee pain and see how that feels. A bit lower seat position ought also help the back/neck.

I hope that helps, only my opinion.

lower seat by 1cm, maybe more
swap that fsa dustcap for a the lowest profile cane creek top dustcap for a bit more drop.
move extensions back so that your shifters are in your hands at all times

readjust then repost.

lower the seat at least 3cm. the helmet is sold in the usa. my roomate just got one from performance bike. they are quite cheep.

take the spacers out, and i would prefer a shorter neck vs.moving the handle bars.

On a different note, you're looking a bit tired there. Pushing yourself too hard?

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"No matter how hard you train, Somebody will train harder. No matter how hard you run, Somebody will run harder. No matter how hard you want it, Somebody will want it more, I am Somebody"~ST Post

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Does handle bar location matter? I can adjust the extensions and arm rest independently of the handle bars. My hump: I can flatten it, but that doesn't feel natural. I'll re-investigate anyway.

In a matter of speaking. Got my first born a week ago, I'll probably look tired for the foreseeable future.

If I would have shown more skin I would have gotten tan (and leg hair) comments instead. It's been -10C or worse here since November.

Nice bike, seats to high, patch the holes in the wall and start reading that book.

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Try adjust for elbows forward then. Slightly lower seat. A bit more upward angle with the arm rests. Small changes at a time are best. Tinkering is tough because even to right position won't necessarily feel right, especially when you are first trying it. Not that I am claiming this will work best for you but these are what I see as potential problems with your current position: neck, upper back and knees. Back solved with getting rid of the hump which also relates to why your neck is so turtled = stretch out position and perhaps (likely) raise the bar and or lower the seat. Knees - lower the seat.

The best course in my mind is to go with what's comfortable but avoid extremes. Monitor your body and make adjustments accordingly and slowly, make your best judgement andf stick with it for as long as it's working. To me, the knee extension and shape of your upper back/neck seem beyond what would be tenable over a long period of time, but you really need to be monitoring your body. What will tell you the best are long rides and frequent rides over a short period of time. You will know what's supposed to be hurting and what's not. Enjoy the new bike and Good Luck!

maybe a recovery ride? see what I did there?

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Yes I do see what you did there.Just hope I don't see it out on the road.

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I'd actually go a little higher in the front. So I'd drop the saddle, but not so much the front end. It looks like you're a little limited in neck flexibility and struggling to look forward.

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Yeah, I found that was my problem too. Big surprise when I got out on the road for the first time. Had to stop and put the spacers back under the stem to see where I was going.

If you really can't get out on the road at all, try hanging a perfectly vertical mirror on the wall in front of you. If you can't look yourself in the eye, you won't be able to see down the road when hell unfreezes over.

P.S. I see everyone agrees that you seat is too high, but they can't agee whether you should move the bars in or out.

Updated position:

And with outline of old position superimposed:


Based on the consensus I lowered the seat 2.5cm. When I got the bike I did a thorough self-measurement on competitivecyclist and didn't think more about the seat height. It was obviously wrong, heel on pedal had a gap of close to the suggested 3cm.

I lowered the armrests the same as the seat, but angled the extensions upwards a bit. At this point I don't care about having the shifters in my hands.

I have poor posture in general, at least that's what the wife says. That is what's shown in the hump. I have identified some inflexibilities that'll I work on.

I didn't tell you any issues I have, but I had severe pain in my neck on my IM last summer (different bike, similar pos). I thought it was too little training, but the curvature issue seems like a likely suspect. I have also struggled with ITBS all through winter, which hopefully is connected to the super-extended knee.

I did a small test session, and this of course feels very different. Partly due to me forcing my back flat against tight muscles, but the range of motion in the knee seemed tiny. Might I have lowered the seat too much, or should I get used to how it looks now?

Your seat height is much improved. It will only take a few rides to get used to it. As long as you are not also pointing your toes when you pedal, what we see here is great.

The neck can and will be an issue. Some people can train in this position for a while and adapt and not have any issues. Others always will and can help tolerate the situation with a combination of looking up with the eyes more than the head and by looking down for 2-3 seconds every 10-20 seconds (that's what I do).
Others have no choice but to raise the aerobars.

A perfectly fine approach would be to ride this position in your slower races and in most (or all) of your training and then if necessary flip your stem upward for your Ironman.

2.5 is a lot, especially to get used to in one shot but the change you made looks really good to me. Give it some time before making any more changes or make the change more gradualIy if it is too weird to get used to at first. I would consider raising the bar, especially given your neck problems. Maybe try 1cm at a time and even though I suggested stretching out before, given the neck issues and the typical aggressive position you have to hold for tri, it may be worth experimenting with a shorter stem/arm rest in conjunction with raising the bar. Back out of the position every once in a while and stretch your back. Good luck!