The frame length was the length limiter.
The wheels were the height limiter.

Allowing for an inch of internal padding, the external layout ended up 27" x 38" x 8"


The second bike is a small P3 with 650c wheels, so it's a couple inches smaller each dimension. There's no trouble fitting it in a similar sized space.

buy an akona case

I can't really help with your project but I bought this case for a recent trip.

http://store.mpgear.com/...mpetiton-cycles.aspx

I was able to find a store coupon code and get the case for ~$250.

It's a popular case on ST. I used curbside check-in both ways. On the way out they didn't ask what it was, and the bike was shipped for free. The return trip it cost me $50 (bike charge for Southwest)

It was just under 10lbs.

Akonas look like nice cases. Want to save $300, have a much smaller and more protective case, with wheels and backpack straps.

Thanks. People seem to love those cases. I'm going for even smaller, cheaper, stronger, with wheels and backpack straps. At this date, I fear I wouldn't even be able to buy something in time for the flight Sunday.

Each case will have two 4" deep halves.

I decided to round the ends and corners for strength, and to diminish the appearance of size.

Shaped the foam last night with a saw and file. Moving quickly, I didn't get a picture before I sealed it with epoxy paint.

Here is the plug for one half sealed:

Where do you live? I have a two bike case for sale:

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...post=2500427#2500427

Would you guys let the man do his thing! I want to see how this DIY project turns out. :-)

I agree. I want to see how his project turns out...anything that makes travelling with a bike easier and cheaper is a good thing. I like my Akona case, but there is always room for improvement.

Gathered the materials after work. The current plan is to make a Kevlar fabric hinge for the bottom, build adjustable straps and handle into the case weave for secure closure, and have a 4" width of Velcro around the entire seal. The Velcro should function like a zipper, but allow the edges of the shells to stay flush, thus stronger than a zipper would allow. The Velcro ends will tuck under, thus be covered by the buckles and handle, which will keep the ends secure during travel. This approach Velcro approach could suck, and will take me up to, and maybe over the desired budget in my game. Edge alignment could be an issue.

I think its a pretty cool project, and even cooler that you are sharing it here.

keep the posts coming please, I like projects like this. you need to finish this box ready and cured by this weekend?

Stefan

My initial read of your layout diagram has me concluding that you'll have to remove cabling from the handlebars to store the bike. Is that true?

The actual layout does not require cable removal, as shown in the layout photo.

If you have the time keep us informed...and the pictures coming...very interesting!

Yes. I fly with them Sunday...I hope.

Sweet Idea

I made one back in the day, then ditched it and bought one

Any lessons learned that I should know about?

I was a cheap college student and used cardboard, very thick, but still cardboard.

Love this concept, and the idea of what a finished product might look like. After reading this, I went out into the garage and laid several of our bikes (double diamond) out the same way, and it looks much more compact than the Iron case I currently borrow.

I see I would have to disconnect my front brake from the fork to remove the fork, which leads to this question: Is it easy to pull the front fork and reinstall each time? Do I have to worry about bearings coming out?

Thanks for sharing, and please do post more pictures in this thread as you proceed with construction and travel.

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http://www.whydoesgodhateamputees.com/

One additional thing to keep in mind is TSA may open your bike bag. You'll want to make sure that packing it up and closing it is relatively easy to do.

Best of luck,
-Tim

Bearings could be an issue with many headsets. I would suggest a cheap cable tie to keep them in the head tube. (actually might need 2 )
But that wouldn't be a hassle

Thanks! Good tip. Our bearings are sealed in cartridges, but it's still a great idea to hold everything in place.

plus pack extra cable ties for the return trip. You'll have to cut them upon reassembly.

Two Antec computer case straps are being scavenged for the handles. They're not long enough to go all the way around, and I want to work them into the layup so the aren't exposed to snag on things. Handles and buckles will be on the 38" x 8" side of the case.

Never try anything for the first time in a race!

I've used epoxy resin a couple of times, but never polyester, which I selected for cost and time savings. I just bolted home for lunch, and a quick polyester test was successful. It melted things I thought it would melt (Styrofoam) but didn't melt things I didn't want it to melt (garbage bags, nylon webbing, plastic handles, wax paper cups). Compared to epoxy, polyester sets up fast. I'm hoping the test will be cured by this evening. If there are no surprises, I'll lay up the first shell.

My cheap camera was damaged during a recent adventure. It failed completely after the picture of the plug, that's why only half a pic was posted. I'm looking for a solution. I'm reluctant to take expensive gear near all this sticky stuff.

any updates yet? looking forward to some new pictures.

I'm on schedule to finish both cases tomorrow. The only trouble so far was separating the first half of the first case from the plug. Instead of waxing the plug, I'm going to wrap the plug in plastic so I can leave handles to pull it free from the next three shells. The project is $3.50 over budget, and I'll need to spend $30 more. Unfortunately, my cheap camera isn't working. A backup camera is on the way.

Construction order for first half of first case:
Wax the plug - done
Apply chopped fiberglass matting - done
Apply regular matting - done
Reinforce strap, wheel and harness areas - done
Affix straps - done
Reinforce strap, wheel and harness areas again - done
Apply Kevlar - done
Remove half case from plug - done


Still to do on first half of first case:
Affix Velcro
Affix strap exit reinforcement
Apply polish/finish topcoat

Though the cases will be ready, I'll probably wait to affix wheels and harnesses until after this trip.

Starting the second half of the first case.

I love the focus on cheapness (as in managing the budget). What most STer's don't know is that this the fastest way to retiring early and riding the bike full time while everyone else slogs away chained to a desk or factory to service their toys!

Keep the updates coming. Yesterday I was trying to figure out if I could get my frame and wheels in a hockey goalie bag. Getting the frame in does not appear to be an issue, but most goalie bags are 20x20x40. My frame length is 96 cm (37.7 inches), so that works with removing the derrailleur, but the wheels 27 inche are the big problem.

OK, here is a hockey bag that is 44 inches x20 x20 so big enough for larger frames assuming you remove the drive side crank:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/...%2BBag%252C%2BXL.jsp

You could load the frame and all the gear in this and damonhenry could make all of us something with fiberglass for wheels.

I have been watching your post with interest. I am very interested in a bike case that would allow me to ship my bike and avoid any chance of getting airline luggage surcharges. I think that your case as designed will probably not escape these surcharges. What are the final dimensions of your case? I think they will be about 27.5" x 41.5" x 8". This adds up to 77 linear inches. This is well over the 62" limit that most airlines allow, so you will get charged for oversized luggage.

I have been thinking that it might be better to split the bike into two separate cases. One for the wheels and one for the frame (with fork removed).

I have found this wheel case, that while expensive, adds up to 65 linear inches, just over the 62" limit. Wheel safe

I have been trying to find a case to put the frame into, but so far the have been unable to find one that meets my needs. My preliminary measurements indicate that I need to have a case that measures 28" x 28" x 8". this gives me 64" linear inches, again just over the 62" limit. I may be able to get by with a smaller case by removing the crank as well.

Has anyone gone this route for shipping their bike?

A wheel safe, plus a hockey roller bag will cover it. Technically most of the hockey bags are also just over the oversized limit though wrt to linear inches, but I think it might work.

I've had good success with my Akona bike case, but it does not have wheels and that annoys me.

Have you thought of using PVA mold release after waxing to aid pulling the part from the plug? I use it all the time for aircraft composite parts and it works like a charm.
Good luck with your project!

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Patrick

The akona case looks pretty good to me. What are the outside dimensions when fully packed with a bike and wheels? I am kind of apprehensive about using a softsided case to hold my bike. are you comfortable shipping your bike on airlines using this case? Would it protect a carbon frame adequately?

You're right. This will not be under the 62" limit. My frame alone is larger than that. I played the game of making it all look as small as possible. If ST'ers are getting their small soft bike bags through without charges, this bag is considerably smaller. Other goals:

Protection - my frame is fragile and increasingly rare. There are many custom parts that I don't want broken. Looking inexpensive or unfamiliar often prevents theft.

Ease of travel - I wanted a small person to be able to manage her own gear.

Great suggestion. Yes. PVA should work. Even with that, I'd recommend handles on the plug. The wax released fine. Simply putting handles on my plug would have been all that was needed. Without something to grip, the styrofoam plug didn't have the weight to drop free. The good news is that it took my knee against the middle of the case, while pulling with a good portion of my body weight to bend the case, and another person pulling the plug to get it out. The case is strong, but wouldn't survive being crushed by a vehicle, so I'll be careful not to run over it.

On the second shell, using plastic, that I'm able to pull on. For the third shell, maybe I can figure out a way to get handles into the mold and ditch the plastic. Angled straps drilled into the plug and Gorilla glue might work.

For the inside layer, I used chopped glass matt because it was $2 per yard. An inexpensive weave would only be $6 per yard, so add $12 per case, and would be easier to use. I'll splurge and make the second case with a woven fiberglass, for the experience.

After the chopped mat layer, came a regular mat layer, then regular woven fiberglass cloth reinforcing in the wheel and harness areas on the ends. The shape held to the plastic covering.

Marking the strap placement. That's black Kevlar, hanging in the top of the picture, that will be applied after the straps and strap reinforcing. The inside of the first shell is in the background.

Black Kevlar and handle applied. Handle is wrapped in tape during production.

Very nice work so far.
Another cheap way to reinforce the shell would be to use carbon TOW. Its basically unwoven carbon strands on a spool that would add stiffness in the direction it is oriented. You could add it to the interior of the case if it turns out to be too flexy.
Cant wait to see more progress.

P.S. Compressed air blasted in between the plug and mold works well to "pop" the two apart.

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Patrick

Patrick, thanks for sharing your experience! cured, the first piece is plenty stiff. I'll look into the TOW, to learn more. Definitely trying the PVA on the third shell. Plastic worked, but left small wrinkles of polyester on the inside. No harm, just no reason.

Building a case is neither working at the job, nor riding the bike. It has it's own costs and rewards. You, Slowtwitchers and triathletes are fun because we all pay attention to the game of resource management. Everyone picks his or her battles.

A quick update. I probably won't be able to post for two weeks as I travel:

The first case was proof of concept. It weighs almost 11 pounds. Dimensions are 38" x 27" x 8". It's plenty strong. I'll report back with how it travels and if I get charged.

So much was learned making the first case, and life outside of triathlon demanded attention, so I decided to travel with our existing case for our second bike, and delay building the second case. Why use the resources now, when a bit of planning will allow me to implement improvements?

Summary:
The case traveled well. Technically, it is an oversize bag, if measured at its extremes. The rounded corners make measurement less likely. Wheels were a nice feature. Backpack function doesn't seem important. The kevlar hinge functioned flawlessly. The case is much stronger than it needs to be. A couple of pounds could be shed during construction. Less expensive materials could be used to further cut costs. I wasn't charged extra to, nor from Cozumel. Leaving Cozumel, there were a number of other bikes being checked. Everyone else in my party (including someone with a white box the same length, height and width but with square corners) was charged for their bikes, but not me. It appeared all other travelers with bikes were being charged. Airlines don't seem attentive to case thickness. Going to 10" thick probably wouldn't draw much more attention. Keeping weight down is important. The case drew more attention when I packed it with bike, tools and fluids than when it only contained bike and clothes. Downside: everyone I traveled with wants one. Thanks to everyone for your encouragement, tips and advice.

I WANT ONE!!!

11 LBS and not elephant-sized; when do you start production?

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DFL > DNF > DNS

So awesome man. Thanks for posting. That thing is sweet. You need some wheels for the production version. You are correct, now one would ever believe there is a bike in there.

This should be submitted for triathlon innovation of the year!

Would a regular diamond frame fit in there?

So someone had a case the exact same size as yours but with corners, and they got charged for a bike while you didn't?

Was this simply because their case was recognized as holding a bike, and yours wasn't?