Crusher of Bones,

No, the PowerTap hub cannot be built into a Hed3. Both products are good but incompatible. If you love PowerTap then go for their new pedals, priced competitively, easy to install, etc.

Ian

take your time n read.........
http://www.dcrainmaker.com/...reviews/power-meters

http://www.dcrainmaker.com/...recommendations.html

Jeff

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You can't fix stupid ..

+2 for PowerTap P1 pedals, I had hub but pedals are just better and give you additional metrics, that might or might not help.

Cheaper and accurate options are crank spider and chainring based. I'd give the Powetap chainring meter a look.

I own Powertap Hub, Power2Max Spider and I have used/owned Stages, and Vectors.

If I were recommending a new Power Meter today I'd say look into:

1. Power2Max S Type - This is mainly because you don't have to calibrate it ever and it auto adjusts itself when temperatures change.
2. PowerTap P1 Pedals - These look simple to install and accurate. I didn't enjoy the Vector experience and it appears PowerTap learned from that mistake
3. Pioneer - This however would require Shimano crankset but it's got a path for upgrades later on so it's future proof
4. Quarq - I'm adding these to the list as they are very popular and well priced. Personally I'm a fan of the crank based options over pedals but your use case could be different than mine.

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"Train so you have no regrets @ the finish line"

I too am in the market for a PM, I like the power2max but I only wish they had a version with dual BT/Ant+ as my Garmin Ambit 3 only does BT (ughh)

I would suggest the P1's as well. while they may be a bit more expensive off the bat, if and when you purchase a new bike you wont have to worry about comparability, buying a new one, with the added perk you dont need to buy new pedals for your new bike.

10 year old Orbea road bike and you're on Slowtwitch!?!? <pink> You know you're going to get a new bright shiny TT bike at some point. I'd go with the P1 pedals and you'll be able to easily switch between bikes without worrying about crank swapping. Just went from a Quarq to the pedals and can't say enough good things about them.

Thanks for the advices guys, i will have to look at all the costs and see how it all works out. Yer i know man my 2005 orbea aluminium road bike with clip ons certainly doesnt fit in around here hahaha, didnt stop me from second fastest bike split overall at a recent sprint tri out of over 170 front door brag.

Plenty of good advice already, but wanted to point out that Power2max sells a complete FSA Gossamer powermeter crankset for $610. For $99 it will include new Praxis chainrings. Tough to beat this deal and it should swap right into your exitsing bottom bracket.

Hey mate cheers for that, i notice they sell a few fsa compatiable powermeters, i have asked the question in the power2max thread but have yet to get a response, do you know exactly which model i would need?

I would suggest sending P2M an email directly with your questions. Looking at the approx. age of your Orbea it looks like you have a FSA MegaExo outboard bearing bottom bracket for an English threaded 68mm bottom bracket shell. You can take a look for markings on your bottom bracket bearing cups and see if it has print with the 68mm and something like BC-1.37in x 24T. For your bike this would mean 24mm crank spindle powermeter. P2M would have to confirm the bottom bracket needed. FSA made a number of minor bottom bracket revisions in that time period trying to work around Shimano's patented lash adjustment. P2M can get you the right BB for the FSA Gossamer they sell now.

According to bikepedia your bike has a FSA MegaExo BB

http://www.bikepedia.com/...p;model=Mitis+105+10

With that in mind it's most likely a BSA68 which was a big standard at that time.

The first two least expensive choices are the FSA Gossamer with a 24mm axle
http://www.power2max.com/...er-meter-and-cranks/

and the FSA Gossamer BB386EVO
http://www.power2max.com/...er-meter-and-cranks/

Just buy the Bottom Bracket with the new cranks.

If I was buying now I'd get the BB386EVO for future compatibility.

jaretj

Thanks heaps for the advice guys