Two G3C's on racing wheels. One G3 on training wheel.

Eight...

Carbon clinchers (main training set)
Alloy for me (for CX and mountains)
29" MTB for me
26" MTB for wife
Carbon tubular (for racing and wanting to train on tubulars)
Stinger disc
Carbon clinchers for wife (racing)
Alloy for wife (training)

Many of the hubs started as SLs and went G3 (Saris upgraded several for free, others I paid for).

With the exception of MTB wheels, my wife I can swap wheels and we have backups at races or for different wind conditions (eg, show up to race and find out Santa Anas are blowing and time to ditch disc)

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"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
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Nope. All I need for what I do is one.

Biggest financial mistake I ever made with bikes and gear is subscribing to the idea that you have to have two sets of wheels. After shitcanning lots of cash over the years, I finally woke up, bought a set of 303s (I Road Race only now) and built one G3 into that set. I've stuck 3,000 miles on them in 3 months. Have ridden them through all kinds of shit, pouring rain (yes, the PT had no issues), hit lots of serious holes and crap in the road and rode them on 5 miles of dirt road only suitable for a cross/mtb bike and have loved every minute of ENJOYING my wheels on my bike vs. them sitting in a wheel bag in my closet.

That said, I have a PT on an old set of alloy wheels...but I never use it anymore because the 303s are the bomb.

Thanks, I really needed to get that off my chest.

I have four, one each on my road bike and tri bike for training, and then two sets of race wheels that my wife and I use. I have more problems keeping my various computers synced to the wheels than I do with the wheels themselves. I track every ride.

Three. A G3 in a Flo 60 that lives on my road bike. A HED Jet disc with a G3 upgrade that lives on my TT bike (race, train, ..whatever). A SL+ that is laced to a bomber Mavic that sits in a box in the basement. The SL+ needs a rebuild and I have a set of Stinger 90s I almost never ride, so it might go in that wheel.

So basically you probably don't need more than 2. I ride different crank and chainring set ups, so swapping crank based PMs isn't really an option. The only PM that I would be a better option is the Brimm Brothers. I only have one pair of shoes. I am just waiting to see if they deliver on their promise.

For those with multiple powertaps. How do you ensure valid results from wheel to wheel?

They aren't that hard to calibrate. Toughest part is finding accurate scale to get the weight the first time.

I don't.... close counts for me.

I've got a PT on a Jet 9 with a wheelcover, and another on a mavic box rim that I use for training. The Jet is only ever used racing.

Just out of curiosity, what's close enough for you? 5 watts, 10 watts?

5 watts would be great for me.... I could live with 10 though. Is that high?

Say your doing a bread and butter 2x20 at FTP workout, which should be pretty challenging. 10 watts is a significant difference. What if you trained to hold 200 watts for a HIM on Powertap A and on Powertap B on race day is off by 10 watts?

Note, I just got a 2nd powertap and I've been wrestling with this issue.

Race day is always done with power as a guide. That's the number I'm aiming for... and PRE fine tunes it. So, if I feel like I can push a little more, then I go for it. The number just gets me in the ball park. I think even if the PTs are perfectly calibrated, the idea that you'd only ever ride them at exact goal wattages in a race is crazy!

I've never noticed a difference and it's never been an issue. There is likely a small (>5W) difference between the two, but there can be that much variation (2%) day-to-day in a power meter anyway. Training-wise, the effect will be virtually the same. Race-wise, if I feel like I can go harder I'll go harder. For a Tri, I'll race by power and HR. In a TT I'll race by power and feel.

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How far off are they?

Hard to tell, which is why i posed the original question (How do people ensure valid readings from hub to hub?). I know there is the static torque test but all I have is a 310xt at the moment and I have to work on getting a LYC or Edge. I do know that one PT reads higher (race wheel) vs. the other (training wheel).

I also saw a lot of spokes busted on my Jet 9 w/PT. So now I save that one for race day, and have a 32 spoke wheel w/PT as a beater/training wheel, outdoor or indoor.

hey Mike - just got a flo 60 and thinking about purchasing a G3 for it through Wheelbuilder. no regrets with the PT on the flo 60?

thanks

I purchased a Hed Jet 6 with a PT about 4 years ago. Used that for training and racing. I snagged a Hed Jet C2 Disc on the ST Classifieds a year ago, with a PT so use that for racing now.

If you only want the expense of one then a Jet 6 would be good for both. Wheel covers are ok but they look like crap on some wheels, the Hed's being one of them, I think the issue is the way the spokes are laced into the hub, the cover does not sit flush, at least on the model I had.

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Two
One on an Mavic open pro that sits on my road bike.
One on a Zipp 808 that sits my my Tri bike.

No problems to report. I have been riding it for about 7-8,000 miles without any maintanence, except a battery change.

Well a PT is good for +-1.5%, so if they are reasonably well calibrated, then there isn't really a more accurate power meter.

Accuracy is, however, situation specific. My TT bike has a Friction Facts chain and 15 tooth ceramic jokey wheels, so I probably save 5 watts over my road bike with a grubby chain. I also ride oval rings on the TT bike and round on the road bike, so the PT is the only power meter that isn't affected.

2, haven't had an issue with difference in measurement difference.