It'll fit. There is a broad range of adjustment via stem length and rise, and saddle position. The bike size only needs to be close.

A road bike isn't so good for triathlons though.

Unless it's a sprint, then they are pretty good...

I've got some low back issues and neck issues, so I think I'm going to go with a road bike.

Can anyone offer any comments on the Scott Addict R1 frameset? I've tried to do some quick research and have found positive comments on the Addict line in general, but can't find much on the R1 specifically.

Is the frame new? If not, how used is it?

I know a guy who has one and loves it. But in general I don't think it makes sense to buy an expensive lightweight frame for FL and triathlons.

^^^This.

If you're going for a road bike, particularly a non-aero frame, in FL where there are few to zero hills, your money would be much better spent on wheels, tires, tubes, saddle, pedals, shoes, powermeter, etc. 300 grams in the frame doesn't matter. Go for a nice aluminum frame for a third of that price used. Or even a complete aluminum bike for about that price used. Put 25 or 28 mm tires on it, and enjoy. Upgrade the aforementioned bits as needed. It'll be comfortable, and you'll save money over the carbon. Unless you just really like how carbon looks, and how you're friends will envy it. Then, that may be worth the difference.

Either way, you need to get what you want. Enjoy!!

Edit: In fairness, you didn't ask any of those things. You asked if it would fit. Yea, it'll fit with the right spacers, stem, saddle, crank, and handlebar. Sorry. Didn't mean to get off on that tangent.

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-Stephen in Arkansas

All good points.

I haven't shopped the market, but you could probably find a new *aero* carbon road bike with 105 or Rival for ~$2k, and adding clipon bars and decent wheels would make it good for triathlons.

Used w/ about 3500 miles on it.

And does the aero matter if I'm training for long course again? Race I'm going to be prepping for is Great Floridian, which does have some rolling hills and a decent amount of climbing (for a FLA race).

If saving weight doesn't matter, what Alu frames should I consider? I honestly have no clue where to start.

I will make a confession......the frame is nice looking!

Aero always matters. But, for some it matters less. The rider is ~80% of the drag when considering the bike/rider unit. The most important thing the TT/tri bike does is get the rider down out of the wind. The gains made by the aero frame are paltry compared to that. That aside, since you mention you have some problems w/ lower back and neck, your road bike position may be the best you'll be able to do. An aero road frame will probably save you about a minute per 40K. Maybe more, maybe less, depending on lots of things. If you're not worried about that amount of time savings, then aero matters less.

With regard to the perceived comfort of carbon, I just don't think that any dampening carbon provides will compare to that of a 25 or 28 mm tire. And if you're not worried about a couple minutes of aero losses over a long course triathlon, those 28 mm tires could be a life saver for your back. (One caveat about the 28 mm tires....not all road frames and brakes will accept them, but many will.)

So, if you can find a major manufacturer (Trek, Specialized, Cannondale, Orbea, Scott, Felt, etc.) aluminum road bike w/ carbon fork and SRAM Rival or Shimano 105 drivetrain, that'll probably be an excellent bike. I would speculate a bike like this that's a couple years old with little to no wear would go for $750-1000. In a 54, I would imagine this bike could come in around 20-22 lbs pretty easily, maybe less. My 60 cm aluminum is right around 20 lbs or so. And the reason I bring up pedals, saddle, shoes, etc., is because those are your contact points. I think contact points can be quickly forgotten in their ability to improve the comfort and handling on a bike.

A beautiful frame is something to enjoy, though. So, I understand why one would covet some sweet carbon.

Hope all that helps!

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-Stephen in Arkansas

105 is what I was thinking, yes. Get some inexpensive wheels, and I'd be good to go.

your comments are very helpful, thank you.

If you like the frame and it's within your budget, go for it. It'll fit with a few part swaps. And it is a quality bike.

If you're thinking you're going to build up that frame w/ 105, that'll be a great, but it'll cost you a lot more than a 105 groupset and a set of training wheels.

Don't forget saddle, bars, stem, cables, cable housing, bar tape, pedals, tires, tubes, etc. It adds up quickly!

I would recommend it, as I love building/fixing/maintaining my bikes. But, you won't necessarily come out ahead of finding a nice, used complete bike, given the $900 frame.

Like rruff said, I would think you could pick up a complete carbon bike for around $2K, perhaps, on an end-of-the-year closeout or something.

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-Stephen in Arkansas

If saving weight doesn't matter, what Alu frames should I consider? I honestly have no clue where to start.

Just as a "for instance" here is a new Litespeed aero carbon road bike with 10spd 105 for $1445. They have a large, which is probably what you'd want if you don't want to bend over too far.
http://www.pricepoint.com/...eed-C3-Bike-2013.axd

BTW, unless the person selling the Addict is a personal friend I wouldn't believe the mileage claim. Buyer beware and all that. Carbon frames can crack internally if over stressed. And the price isn't a screaming deal or anything.

So, you're saying that the lightspeed would be better.... Brand new, fully equipped, ready to go... And on 44% sale. And would fit my needs (at least based on what I have said.....right?

Sure looks like a good deal to me.

Do a search for "Litespeed Archon C3 review" and see what you find.

Even cheaper aero carbon road bike with 105 that even comes with clipons... and it looks like there is a good amount of saddle forward adjustment as well, $1200: http://www.pricepoint.com/...uqusICFYJDaQodqJgAlg

So, if I look at these two bikes, the frames are pretty much a wash. The price difference is in the components, correct?

Or is there a ~$200 difference in the frames?

Don't pay any attention to msrp... it's bogus. I'd say they are both pretty low end Chinese frames, but that isn't really a problem. The Kestrel has a lower and longer geometry. Gotta run, but I'll take another look later today.

The Litespeed has a few parts that are better and maybe the frame is slightly better. For your purposes I think the Kestrel would be the best choice because of the saddle adjustment, bars, and lower price.

Reviews here: http://www.amazon.com/.../178-3679852-1076805

If I purchase, is there a way to upgrade components to all 105 prior to and upon purchase from these folks?

Check out BikesDirect I have two friends with BD roadies that are probably close to 5 years old.....frames are good to go and these guys pound the crap out of them. I think one had Force and the other Ultegra.

I've never bought a bike from them... but I doubt they will customize. I wouldn't change stuff anyway, the parts already on there are fine for your purposes. You''ll probably want a couple cheap stems to refine your position, but that's about it.

Tigerpaws, this is all your fault....http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/road_bikes.htm

About 1/2 way through, there are aluminum and carbon bikes (105 / Ultegra) for ~$1200-$1400. Would this be a viable option compared to the bikes (Litespeed and Kestrel) listed?

The Kestrel only is in size 57.....too big for me.

And the Litespeed C3 Archon isnt' on the site anymore...the Litespeed that shows up now looks different; at least I think it does.

What dimension on the 57 Kestrel do you think is too big?