Quote:

best way to lighten my new bike

Drillium.

Tires and tubes can probably reduce it a 1/2 pound, and there's another 1/4 pound in a saddle swap.

Skewers, tires, tubes, stem, and pedals are probably the least expensive things to look at. Saddle, bars, and pedals next. After that things get pretty expensive.

the saddle it comes with is 172 grams. a dash saddle isn't much lighter. the road ones come in at around 150 grams? i was going to get a brooks saddle, but hot damn, they are heavier.

tires and tubes for sure. i plan on running conti 2000's with latex.

skewers? it has thru axles (my first time with them), didn't realize there were lighter weight versions. any suggestions?

thanks for the info!

Put a SRAM Red 22 crank on it. Shimano cranks are heavy.

My girlfriend and I were looking at this bike. I think you're right about the pedals, depending on what you're replacing them with. Probably a little weight in the bars and stem, but not a whole lot. Same for tires and tubes. The wheels are around 1780 gms. You can get into the mid to low 1600's for $600-700. Low 1500's for $1k and low 1400's for $1500. Awfully hard to spend that kind of money on a bike that was around 2k to start with.

My suggestion would be to ride it for a while and then decide what you don't like. Tires and tubes is the easy call when the OEM stuff wears out. The Hed bars and stem aren't really that heavy, nor are they expensive to replace. So, maybe do them as you see fit. I think the biggest saving is to get the American Classic 40 or 46 carbon disc wheels for $1500. They not only shed weight ( which is nice, but not that big a deal), but are likely much more aero than the Hed Flanders wheels.

whats your weight and height? most people can drop it for free ;)

trimming down also helps performance on so many levels and really most can.. a lot

funny you say that. i was just at the AC site, looking at the 40's.

i might just end up doing items under 200 bucks. my main sport is triathlon. i just got a bit jealous when all my friends were riding b2vt, spring century etc in road bikes and i was stuck with my tri bike with heavy training wheels (i didn't want to use race wheels for a non race).

Your 10 speed DA crank will work flawlessly with this.

It looks like it's going to be difficult to realize much of a weight loss here on a small amount of money. Nothing really seems to stand out as being particularly heavy in the stock version of the bike, leading me to think that the frame/fork is a little beefy. I have Norco Threshold gravel bike that is similarly spec'd, similarly beefy frame, and I'm still sitting around 19lbs with carbon handlebars, seat post, lightweight stems...

I don't know much about the HED bars, stem, seat post. If they are alloy, there's likely some room to lose weight.

-Stem: Alloy UNO stems come in at around 110g and are excellent/stiff.
http://www.ebay.com/...Mo3WPGKPWejst0RiyprQ

-Carbon handlebar and seat posts can easily be sourced on Aliexpress. Generally they are lighter than your typical alloy stem.

-If the saddle is 172g, you'd be hard pressed to find a lighter and comfortable saddle. ...Actually, the stock saddle appears to weigh 282g, so there may be some room here to lose weight. (http://road.cc/...go-kappa-dea2-saddle)

tires, tubes, pedals, extra accessories can be taken off. Swap cranks, chain, cassette and go. Or diet for 3 weeks and drop 5-7lbs the cheaper way.

It seems that bike doesn't have any big weight offenders like 2kg+ wheels. That being the case you could spend relatively small amounts on "upgrades" on the saddle, bars, stem, etc but when you add it all up I suspect you'll be spending a substantial amount for relatively small weight savings. If you're jealous of other guys light road bikes, the money may be better spent on a road bike!

Sorry didn't realize it was through axle, I'm not really familiar with those so I'm not sure if there are light options. I agree that the stem and bars are already pretty light. You could drop a little going to carbon bars but it probably isn't worth the expense. Do you need a 34/32 low gear? You could drop some weight with a tighter spaced cassette like 11-28 or 11-25. You could pretty easily save around a quarter pound on the saddle, ebay is a good place to find take offs on the cheap. Part of the problem is you have a disc brake frame, that typically adds 1-1.5 pounds to the overall build.

According to this (Page 48):
http://www.prologotouch.com/...LOG-DEALER-20X7_.pdf

It's 238g

Dieting is the easiest way to lighten your bike.

Ha. My first thought.

Start with the water bottles, tires, and handlebars. Lots of weight to lose there.

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thanks for all the great info. especially the uno stuff. i'll check it out.

dieting is not really going to cut it. i'm not going to shave off 5 lbs in the next 2 weeks just to be lighter. my focus is long distance tri and i get to race weight the week before the race and maintain. 123lbs, body fat generally under 6%. at that time, there really isn't much more weight i can lose without looking like i'm starving myself.

i don't need the 30/32. it's just what it came with. would an 11 speed 11/28 really save that much weight off? i'm surprised.

i'm picking up a premier tactical next year, so i'll probably swap my dura ace with stages onto the road bike and put the ultegra crank from this bike onto my backup tri bike which will stay on the trainer.

john

That's a different subject.
Why, every time someone asks about reducing bike weight. do a bunch of you jump in telling them body weight is more important/cheaper/easier?
It's a different topic. They're not mutually exclusive. Everyone already knows this.

Seriously, if someone asks about bike/component weight, please just answer that question and stop it with the same ignorant/condescending nonesense every damn time.

I've hand built a few clincher wheel sets for under $300 that came in at 1380g (kilin XR270 rims, could drop about 80-90g with their 200's). Rim brake, 20/24 spokes, so not exactly what the OP would be able to pull off with discs, but he could easily get in the 1500g range for $400. Overall, though, the wheels won't perform any better than the stock HED's.

That was my thought before I opened the thread :)

Drillium is always the answer.

Remove every other spoke.

remove every other cable. (more aero too)

there are probably too many bolts on the bike. get rid of some of those.

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i'm probably willing to spend up to 700 for a wheelset that is more aero and lighter. keep this one for riding around rougher roads, use the nicer set for those >75 mile rides outside of the city.

just did 35 on my tri bike around the city and god damn did i feel all the bumps.

and yes, as stated. i know i can probably lose 2-3lbs. nothing more than that. anything under 122ish i start dropping my ftp. i can get to 119 for a marathon PR attempt, but my bike suffers hard when i do that. also, as stated already, my weight is controlled for ironman racing. thus, id like to find ways to reduce the bike weight without breaking the bank.

i think i've been given enough info. thanks to all that have helped. i'll post pics when i get it done.

john

Some Stans Avion wheels would look great on that bike. You'd drop weight, add aero, and have the best tubeless interface on the market. Then you can run tubeless tires and drop the weight of tubes entirely.

You'll probably have to swap out stems anyway to get your right fit, so you can swap to a lighter one; but this won't save you much weight. I bet that HED stem is pretty light.

The Selle SLR saddle (135g) would save you a quarter pound.

A seatpost would provide good bang for the buck.

Personally, i would keep those cranks. I love the way shimano chainrings shift, and I also like that the BCD on shimano cranks is the same whether you run compact or standard gearing.

With the exception of the IRCs, I haven't found a tubeless tire that's actually lighter than a Continental 4000sII with a tube. Do you have a recommendation?

not sure what BCD is. i assume my dura ace crank from 2013 is lighter than this ultegra crank.

i'm actually hoping someone wants to swap cranks. i would love to switch from (what i assume is a factory 170, it doesn't say anywhere). to a 160 or 165 crank. (dura ace is 167.5)

interesting on the tubeless, as the above poster stated, i didn't know tubeless tires were that light compared to conti and latex tube.

john