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Zipp wheel building questions
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DarkSpeedWorks
May 30, 15 15:15
Post #1 of 7 (1848 views)
I've built many wheels in my time, but they have been mostly traditional wheels (alloy aero or box section rims, plus 28 or 32 spokes with traditional hubs). What I would like to try is to fully rebuild a zipp 808 rear wheel and switch out the hub. Obviously, this rim is much stiffer than any rim I've worked with before. I can manage getting the right spokes, getting the wheel put together and started, etc. But are there any specific tips for building up a wheel with these beefy zipp rims, methods that are maybe quite different for those employed with wheels build from thinner alloy rims? Different orders or methods for getting the wheel in true and in round? Spoke tension issues? That kind of stuff.

All input welcome. Thanks in advance.
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Last edited by: DarkSpeedWorks: Jun 2, 15 5:10
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Re: Zipp wheel building questions [DarkSpeedWorks] [ In reply to ]
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DarkSpeedWorks
Jun 2, 15 4:46
Post #2 of 7 (1693 views)
Bump for weekday STers ....
Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
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Re: Zipp wheel building questions [DarkSpeedWorks] [ In reply to ]
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scca_ita
Jun 2, 15 7:00
Post #3 of 7 (1663 views)
I would call Jim at Moment Cycle here in San Diego. He did my 808 rear before TX and put a White Industries Hub in for 11 speed upgrade. Not to mention the quality of the hub over Zipp's.

New Spokes, nipples and there we some special oval shaped washers which took some time to get. In the end this is the route anyone should take if looking to upgrade 10 speed Zipps (Sliver Hubs) to 11 speed. In my case I like tubular wheels for "Race Day" - so they were like new given they only had 6 races on them.
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Re: Zipp wheel building questions [DarkSpeedWorks] [ In reply to ]
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rrutis
Jun 3, 15 3:05
Post #4 of 7 (1606 views)
take a used spoke and bend it into an L or T shape, thread the nipples on to the end of the bent spoke (from the top of the nipple) to help get the nipples into the rim without dropping them, other than that the zipps i have built have been pretty standard. oh, and be careful with spoke tension...try to borrow a tensiometer if you can.

rich
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Re: Zipp wheel building questions [rrutis] [ In reply to ]
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DarkSpeedWorks
Jun 3, 15 5:22
Post #5 of 7 (1571 views)
Good suggestions, thanks.

Any published info available for what the tension numbers should be for various zipp rims?
Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
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Re: Zipp wheel building questions [DarkSpeedWorks] [ In reply to ]
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rijndael
Jun 3, 15 5:35
Post #6 of 7 (1565 views)
Quote:
Your wheels have been trued and checked here by our professional wheel builders. The spoke tension on our carbon wheels is 100 kg front/rear drive side and about 65 kg rear non-drive. Before truing or adjusting spoke tension, apply a drop of lube (such as Triflow) between the nipple and rim. This will reduce friction between the two surfaces and lessen the chances of rounding off a nipple.
http://www.zipp.com/support/maintenance/wheel_care_88_188.php
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Re: Zipp wheel building questions [scca_ita] [ In reply to ]
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ms6073
Jun 3, 15 5:55
Post #7 of 7 (1554 views)
scca_ita wrote:
there we some special oval shaped washers which took some time to get.

After the drive-side flange of the rear hub of my rear Zipp 303 FC wheelset cracked off, I rebuilt the wheels with DT Swiss 240S Straight pull hubs and those Firecrest oval washers were the hardest thing to source. I got some from Wheel Fanatyk (along with a nice digital spoke tensiometer) but there is also a supplier on Amazon UK. Seems to me that if your 808's already have the washers and the washer are in good shape (not corroded), I really see no reason not to reuse them. I will offer a word of caution as I did not do enough due diligence prior to starting and was not aware of the presence of those washers until I removed the first nipple only to see a glimpse of the washer as it disappear into void inside the rim. I also had two of the washers slip off the end of the spoke during assembly, and in each case, it was a serious pain requiring mini flash light, screw drivers to block spoke holes, and lots and lots of patience to get the washers out so I imagine it would be a real nightmare with an 808 rim. Smile
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Last edited by: ms6073: Jun 3, 15 6:11
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