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Zipp 404 Hub Technical Question
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Hey all,

I come to you in a bit of a pickle. I noticed last weekend that my rear 404 had a bit of lateral play in it - probably about 1mm left and right, enough for some brake rub under load etc. No worries I thought, I know how to adjust the cap over the bearings to take out the play. I duly put my 2mm allen key in and started turning. The thing was seized. To cut a long story short, after a few attempts, I have now threaded the top of the bolt, so now all that happens is my allen key just spins and won't grip. Sad times. I have tried to hammer a 2mm torx into there and this worked once but not enough to make the bolt loosen.

So, my question is two fold.

1) Has anyone had this happen to them and what did you do? I have a dremmel and a small enough drill bit to fit in there but I am afraid that I will strip the thread when drilling the bolt out.

2) If I ride the rear wheel with this play am I asking for a catastrophic hub failure down the next hill? Is the play dangerous or is it a question that at the moment it is more of an annoyance? It's not a huge amount of play, but it is play none the less.

I have a bike race tomorrow AM and have no time to get it to my LBS or a mechanic - It's 20:00 in the UK and they are all shut and tomorrow's race starts at 7:30am.

Any ideas welcome!
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Re: Zipp 404 Hub Technical Question [Ironmike78] [ In reply to ]
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I've ridden the Zipps with more play than that unwittingly, and the hub didn't explode on me.
Last edited by: dalava: May 27, 16 13:15
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Re: Zipp 404 Hub Technical Question [Ironmike78] [ In reply to ]
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I would not want to ride with that much play in a hub....you will be working on premature bearing failure. Doubtful it will lock up, but it will get draggier and draggier over time. Not to mention brake rub, and derailleur alignment. Depending on what kind of race you are doing that could be a bigger deal.

Here is probably what i would do in you position. Drill the bolt out (you could alternately cut the bolt with a cutting wheel through the slot of the adjuster if that is easier. Spin the adjuster all the way off. Liberally apply thread locker and spin tighten up your bearings to take the play out of it. The loctite should hold the collar in place for a race, but you might want to look for the more aggressive loctites if you can. Then order a new lock ring the second your bike shop opens up and replace it with that when you can.

Oh yeah, do this at your own risk. And check it frequently.
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Re: Zipp 404 Hub Technical Question [pyrahna] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks. There isn't any gap to get a cutting disc into. That was my first thought. I haven't drilled the bolt out. I just don't trust myself enough. At the moment I have a wheel I can race on I think, but if I mess up drilling then I'm not even starting tomorrow. I have done two hard rides with the wheel play midweek and no issues. I suppose the question now is am I going to do lasting damage to the wheel by riding with side to side play? I do have some mavic ksyriums I could swap in if I am definitely going to do myself or my wheel damage, but if it's "probably" going to be OK until I get to a mechanic in the afternoon then I'd rather take the risk.
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Re: Zipp 404 Hub Technical Question [Ironmike78] [ In reply to ]
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Didnt ZIPP used to say loose is fast and a small amount of play was ok?
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Re: Zipp 404 Hub Technical Question [Jnags7] [ In reply to ]
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Yup I've heard that too. The weight of the rider means there is no wobble when under load etc but I just don't know how much play is too much play.
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