Aero bikes are just plain faster unless you are climbing something really steep and can save significant weight with a non-aero bike. The Foil 20 might be a bit more of an all around bike but the AR, with a decent handlebar is within a couple watts of the fastest road frames out there (Madone 9 or Venge Vias).

If you are racing criteriums, I would get the Allez. It seems like itÂ’s aluminum frame would hold up better in crashes.

I would get a Fuji Transonic. It tested only 1w slower than the newest S5 in a Tour wind tunnel test and the Transonic had the deficit of a round base bar. I'd get one of the 105 models and change out the front and rear to direct mount EE brakes, swap the base bar, and then get a set of Hed Jet 6 wheels.

http://www.performancebike.com/...:&pageSize:&

How much benefit are we talking while riding in a pack? I get it for breaks, but the distances for a 40k or below, are we talking tangible aero gains?

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just your average age grouper . no one special . no scientific knowledge . just having fun.

This was my thinking. And the aluminum is still suppose to ride pretty well, even if a bit heavier. The price just seems a bit high being aluminum

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just your average age grouper . no one special . no scientific knowledge . just having fun.

IÂ’ll check it out. Do we have a local dealer for Fuji?

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just your average age grouper . no one special . no scientific knowledge . just having fun.

Performance Bike in Winter Park. I donÂ’t trust any of the wrenches there though. Get the brakes and the bar and take the bike over to Justin at Orange Cycle. HeÂ’s my go-to mechanic.

Aluminum tends to crack in the area of a dent because it is more brital after heat treating. Calfee can fix about anything you would do to a damaged carbon frame. You send a damaged aluminum frame off to become a beer can.

$4k for a DA Di2 bike - pretty decent deal!

Is that a real problem? I thought the Allez was the darling bike for amateur crit racers.

You won't find a faster bike for the price and quality than the Fuji Transonic...unless you go for a Chinese Ebay special.
Fuji continues to be a bike that is 1/2 the price of any other bike of comparable quality and aero -ness.

given that you have "zero experience with road bikes" i'd recommend not blowing your budget on this until you decide to what is important to you.

do you care about mechanical vs electric?
do you want a PM (yes is the only correct answer)?
do you own race wheels/do you want some semi-deep wheels?
alloy or carbon?
sram or shimano?

$3200, if spent correctly, should get you a carbon bike, di2, and a PM, fairly easily. if you don't know what you want, go on the cheap side (alloy, mechanical shimano 105/ultegra, no PM, no race wheels) and then race it a bunch until you figure out what's important.

the frames are all similar. as a friend said to me (about mtbs), you can only configure two triangles so many different ways... so the frames really aren't THAT different.

unless you're buying a madone or a venge or AR or S5, then everything else is basically the same.

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@adamwfurlong

Which group do you want on your new bike?

I agree with the prior response who suggested the Specialized. Great crit bike - if it fits. For me, the head tube is too tall. A very strong second choice is the Cannonade Caad12. Ultegra for $2100, 105 disc for $1950 and 105 rim for $1700.

I have a 2013 Giant TCR Advanced easily the best crit bike I've ever had. It was one step down fro the TCR Advanced SL at the time. The position is now held by the TCR Advanced Pro. Ultegra mechanical, deeper rims. $3150.

Not saying you can't find a shop with an amazing deal, but what do you have in mind that would be easy to get with all this and not be used?

I've gotten some deals I'm quite proud of in the past, but none would touch getting all this. Even the Fuji is priced higher than this without PM.

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just your average age grouper . no one special . no scientific knowledge . just having fun.

105 is a minimum requirement--nothing less. Going to stick with Shimano. I'm not opposed to upgrading components over time. The TT bike is my ride. Just need something for some local road racing/riding.

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just your average age grouper . no one special . no scientific knowledge . just having fun.

Thanks for the input. I'm hoping a local shop has an allez sprint in stock.

Cannondales just don't do it for me. And I don't know why I always overlook Giant. I think I keep going straight to the Propel, fall in love, and then get turned off on Advanced.

But Fuji and Giant are two I'm hoping to check out today.

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just your average age grouper . no one special . no scientific knowledge . just having fun.

Before carbon fiber was used for making bikes, most everyone raced on thin wall aluminum bikes and many had a dent somewhere. I can't think of an example of a frame failing due to a dent, I'm not sure I'd fret over it.

The Giant TCR advanced pro 1 is a lot of bike for the $$. New ultegra 8000, carbon wheels, 14/15 lbs, great race geometry and handling.

Venge elite might be the best steal right now. Otherwise, allez elite and use the saved money for a power meter or DI2. Cannondale CAAD12 is also a top option. For road racing di2 is a real advantage simply because of the sprint shifters. Otherwisw ultegra, dura ace, sram rival through red are all great mechanical systems.

If it was me i would buy the allez sprint.

I have a Propel Advanced and love it.. had some issues with the integrated brakes but I've sorted those.

The Fuji Transonic looks like a fantastic bike and value.

Also I don't think crits are frame destroyers generally anyway. You tend to slide on the tarmac. Bars and wheels take a hit, but frame damage isn't that common, I don't think. I've done maybe 300 crits, and have never lost a frame. Lost a steerer tube, but most of those are carbon now anyway.

Maybe "fairly easily" was incorrect. "If patient" may have been better. Look at it like this: $1500 bike, $900 quarq, $900 ultegra di2 gruppo.

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@adamwfurlong