Looks great

Nice job, great pics. Confirmed to me that my time is worth the $90 to buy from WB.

Great guide.

I did this once too, a long time ago.

A question: the taping of the disc (from the back) to some of the spokes as you pictured in one of your last steps, I assume you can't really do that to both sides of the disc cover. Or, if you can, how would that be done?

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Nope, you can't. You only need to do it on the drive side, to pull the cover away from the cassette so you get less rubbing in your largest rear cog.

Asad

Bravo..."Clap Clap Clap".

I'm so doing this!

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Running is a gift.

Why cut from the center of the disc to the edge only to turn around and cement it back together again? You seem to say that it won't lay flat otherwise but I don't understand how an uncut disc will not lay flat when a cut-and-then-recemented disc will.

The disc needs to be slight conical in order to extend from the hub to the rim as they are not in the same plane. The hub is way wider.

Hugh

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Genetics load the gun, lifestyle pulls the trigger.

Yup....you have to form a slight cone, and the only way to do that is to make the slice.
You're not just making a slice though...you're removing a wedge of material.

Great write up.

I had to do it as I had a wheelbuilder cover that puckered and rubbed the non-drive chainstay and rubbed against the cassette on the drive side.

You took the care of the 2 biggest issues before you even started. Sourcing the material and cutting the circles. I could not find .040" ABS in Jacksonville, FL. I was told they could order it for me, but it would be about $18 for the sheet and $250 for shipping. So I went with .060" instead which they had in stock. That was $18 for a 4'x8' sheet. I then had to run the circles myself. It wasn't too hard but it certainly wasn't as clean your pieces.

One thing to keep in mind, the non-drive blank (before rolling) has to be slightly bigger than the drive side. It gets rolled into a higher cone. On my wheels, the final piece is about 5-8mm smaller in diameter than the drive side. If (when) I do it again, I'll cut the non-drive blank a little larger. I'll also do it in .040" or preferably .030".

Oh and I picked up the abs after work Monday, spent 1.5 on it that night. Here on Tuesday, I spent about 1 hours getting it finished and installed. Super easy.

Thanks again,

Scott

How wide was the piece you removed on the drive side?

Tiny...maybe an 1/8th on the outer edge.

How does wheelbuilder make their cone? I looked for a slice but didn't see one.

They probably heat/press/vacuum form it.

Is this what you mean by hole saw?

http://api.ning.com/...grq/holesaw_Full.jpg

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Running is a gift.

After reading this...
Wheelbuilder can raise their prices and I'd still buy.

By how much?

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Running is a gift.

That's it.

Lol, does it really look that difficult? I could have reduced it to just a few steps and most able bodied people could do it....the fine details are for the types that have a hard time with something simple like changing their own oil. ;)

I searched and have noway of getting the material locally otherwise i'd be on it!!!
Thank you for sharing and demystifying the build up.

As the owner I a pair of an covers, I can say yours are nicer- cleanly done!

Another option is to use heat shrink film- commonly used on model rc airplanes- its like heavy Saran wrap- you tack it on w a soldering iron and then when you hit it w a hair dryer it shrinks tight and wrinkle free- more fragile than what you made but light and less crafty

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-Cartels: Serotta, Zipp 2001, Guru, eh?
-"It was kinda long and then i got really tired"

Very well done. Thank you for sharing your How To...

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From now on...

hows it feel when riding?

Did you use packing tape on both sides? How do you hold in place the side that you mount 2nd?

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"Your limits are self imposed"

Black electrical tape around the outer edge on both sides holds it on. The packing tape on the inside keeps the cassette/derailleur from rubbing

Great....very solid. No noise or anything.