Hi all,

I'm looking to understand more regarding replacement options for BBs for my P5. First, on the stock BB. I understand it's the Rotor PF4630. Who makes the bearing (is it Rotor)? How long should it last?

On replacements, I've had trouble getting a clear answer on various websites on what will work on the P5, due to frame design. I have the stock Rotor 3D+ crank and will likely keep it.

1) On Ceramic Speed : http://www.ceramicspeed.com/...70302000/PF4630,-Red (CeramicSpeed Sales said they would work, but their website specifically says otherwise for the P5 and to use the BB30 bearings. Do you pop these in a standard cup / into the Rotor cups?

2) My LBS suggested BBInfinite : http://bbinfinite.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=68_69&product_id=57 but the installation instructions say, all BBRight Cervelo's except the P5 : http://www.bbinfinite.com/Service/BBRight%20PF%20Install.pdf

3) Enduro seems like they have a few options:
Just cups
http://www.endurobearingsonline.com/collections/xd-15/products/pf30-xd15-alloy-cups


TorqTite
http://www.endurobearingsonline.com/collections/xd-15/products/enduro-torqtite-bbright-xd-15-bearings
http://www.endurobearingsonline.com/collections/torqtite-bbs-for-30mm-cranks/products/enduro-torqtite-bbright-a-c-steel-bearings


4) For Wheels Mfg - seems to work, but unsure given challenges above
http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/pf30/pf30-bottom-brackets/pf30-zero-ceramic-bb-red.html




5) Rotor 4630 Ceramic - Seems like it should fit - given it matches stock, but I read on a Rotor website that it wouldn't work on the P5






Help set me straight!

Hi David,

I have a question regarding the Aduro bar: anybody ever tried to remove the bridge between the extensions (not the removable bridge under the pads)? Is that part structural or can it be hacked off? If yes, what is the best way to do it?

I really want to put a Torhans aero 30 in there but that bridge basically prevent any attempt at putting the bottle close to the headtube.

If anybody else know...

Modify the bottle. Not the bar.

You are taking quite a bit of structural support by cutting thay bridge out.

Well that was part of my question, if that bridge is structural then it is a no.

I saw in another thread how that bottle was nearly matched to the head tube but from what I understand it involved literally cutting the bottle to affix another part on it using another bottle's part. That's a little far beyond what I'm willing to do, getting the melting tools, buying 2 bottles...without a guarantee that the resulting hacked bottle will be somewhat functional. I mean if one screw up the mending, you end up with a big blob of unusable plastic and 2 expansive bottles destroyed.

Done it twice now. No problem. Really not that hard. But to each his own. Very hard to permanently mess it up. Just takes some time.

Good luck.

I have had my P5 for 2+ years and still have that annoying ticking in my BB. I did switch out, on purchase, the Rotor 3D cracks for Rotor power meter cranks, which I *think* have worked very well and I have liked. OI have replaced the BB once but with the Rotor PF 4630, but the tick always seems to come back after several 100 miles of riding. My shop wants to switch it out to the Enduro. Unless I hear contrary opinions I think I'll give that a try.

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David
* Ironman for Life! (Blog) * IM Everyday Hero Video * Daggett Shuler Law *
Disclaimer: I have personal and professional relationships with many athletes, vendors, and organizations in the triathlon world.

Do you have a link to what you did? I did a quick search but didn't find anything.

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____________________
Rock Chalk!

Detailed post coming soon

Just updated my ST profile to include the P5 but that model isn't listed. I had to choose "other." It's got to be a sin of some sort for such a badass bike not to get its full name recognized! :)

Cheers (and sorry to hear about your drafter experience this weekend),

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thechromedome
http://www.favoritefinishlines.blogspot.com
http://www.cupcakecartel.org
My 20% off code for 2018 FS Series races: tricred18
"there are no drafters in heaven" - C Bonner

David,

Have you seen issues with the stem clamp nuts rotating inside the carbon? I had issues on the original base bar but that was replaced when there was a crack near the bullhorn (unrelated to the bolt issue). Now I noticed it's happening again on the second base bar. Granted they don't need to be tightened often but I also don't travel with it but may plan to. I'm worried they're going to just spin inside there. It's been professionally wrenched and only for two bike fittings. I wouldn't expect this to be happening and definitely not on two stems.

It's always to right spec and the shop/fitter has been extra carful tightening the bolts slowly and evenly to minimize this issue (I've watched him do it every time it's been done).

Thoughts? Suggestions? I don't see how one could travel regularly with this bike because of that (however the breakdown of the bike actually seems easy)

Worse case, one could get longer bolts and extend the nuts outside the stem but would drive me absolutely crazy

Hello Jnags7,

I don't recall seeing this happen with the Aduro bar but, I know exactly what you are describing. I had that happen on an older stem and ended up swapping out the bolt for a longer one. It did drive me crazy.

Can you get in touch with me directly? Click on my username and you will be able to send me an email. If you are able to send clear photos, I'll be happy to look at them with engineers and service folks to see if there is any reason to avoid using that base bar.

Thanks,
David

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David Byer
Cervélo

David,

Thanks for the response. I'll send you an email with pictures once I get my bike back from TBT in about a week or so.

I've searched the forum and needed help on a few things as I'm looking to buy a 2014 P5-six.

Are there any cosmetic differences between the 2013 and 2014 P5-six? How would I know the bike I'm buying is really a 2014 and not a 2013?

Were there any SIGNIFICANT upgrades from the 2014 p5-six to the 2015 model?

Thanks!!

Hi David or anyone else

Do you know the size of the small screws that attach the front Magura brake covers to the mounting clips?

Think I can find replacements at a hardware?

Hi David.

I just finished a race this weekend, and was cleaning my bike post-race, and have noticed some cracking/chipping around the bottom of the left rear drop where the carbon and aluminium meet.

It's a 2012 P5-Six. I'm on vacation right now (won't be riding the bike for a bit), but to me, this looks something severe, and possibly a defect, something I hope warranty will cover.

I'll be dropping it off at my Cervelo reseller next week for further investigation.

http://i.imgur.com/EcqTN5N.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/lR9SJ1R.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HsWi1GF.jpg

Any info on this post? I'm looking to purchase a 2014 P5-6 and would like to know too.

Thanks,

SAvan,

I can't completely recall the size off the top of my head but, I'm sure I can find you some. DM and we can work out how to get you more.

Thanks,

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David Byer
Cervélo

Great idea to get that in your Cervélo retailers hands. Best to have that inspected in person.

Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks,

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David Byer
Cervélo

I have a P5 six and plan to ride the UCI Masters TT in Denmark. I know that it is non-compliant but if I swap the forks for the P5 three forks (which I will do) can I simply use the same Magura brake I have now on the P5 six but without the fairings? Is there anything else I need to do to be UCI compliant? I have my bottle between the bars but as the race is only 20km I will not use a bottle and remove it.

As for the bike itself (I can't speak to the position or equipment requirements to be UCI legal) you would have to

1) Replace fork with p5-3 (or p2 or p3) fork
2) Remove covers of Magura brakes
3) Remove beard from Aduro bar

Hey jimM,

James is correct. The magura brake itself is fine to use; it is the fork and brake cover/beard that could get you into trouble with the commissaire. Otherwise, your position will be the main thing they'll check.

Good luck in your TT!

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David Byer
Cervélo

I've installed the Wheels Mfg one a few times without issues. Typically what the issue is with the P5 and those bottom brackets is that there is some carbon flashing inside the frame that the environmental shield bumps into. You can file that flashing off in a few seconds. It's just that the bearing manufacturers dont want to be responsible for you taking a file to your bike, so they state it as "incompatible".

Otherwise to me, all the bottom brackets youve listed out are generally the same. Some of have longer shields to cover the 11mm further distance than a standard BB30, others do not. Basically all of them will fit into the 46mm pressfit shell. I personally like the standard Wheels Mfg one (not the ceramic) because it works well and is relatively inexpensive. There isnt much really to gain by using ceramic as evidenced by Friction Facts, except to lighten your wallet.

David and James many thanks. A bit of a saving if I don't need to replace the brake. Only new forks and a trip to Denmark!!

David, my aerobars continue to get loose on my p5-6 what is a solution? i have tried carbon paste, and cranking down on the nut, Thanks

you should really torque those extensions more ... you would be surprised how tight they go
you could also try plumbing tape