Login required to started new threads

Login required to post replies

Prev Next
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [notaero] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Apologize in advance if this has previously been asked, however I couldn't what I was looking for.

I am currently looking at purchasing a Cervelo P5-6, and was curious if the integrated Maguara front brake on the P5-6 fork could be theoretically swapped for a mechanical brake caliper?

IG: NCGregory8778
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [Savage8778] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
it can be swapped you will not be able to install the beard ( the pieces that cover the break )

-----------------------------------------------------
Check out my website/blog: http://www.macheetri.com
Infinit Ambassador: Use INFINIT-P29DC for $5.00 off
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [David Byer] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Mr. David or anyone else willing to help:

I recently purchased a new zipp super 9 CC and installed a continental force tire for my 2013 P5.

I am able to open the brake pads wide enough without interference. However, the brake calipers are causing just a slight amount of rubbing on the wheel.

The simple solution that came to mind was to just back the wheel skewer maybe 1/8", but being the overly paranoid person that I am, I am worried that the wheel is not perfectly straight.

I think the best way to prevent any loss sleep over it would be to make/purchase some kind of spacer to insure that each side of the skewer is setback the same distance.

Anyone have any recommendations on what to use or buy? or is there another solution for this situation? Does anyone else run the this setup without issue?

Reference diagrams:




Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [zilla] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Why don't you just move the wheel backwards using the rear wheel dropout screws...
Last edited by: James Haycraft: Jul 1, 15 7:05
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [zilla] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I can't imagine that if your diagram is accurate that the pads are actually hitting the braking surface and not rest of the super9 beyond the braking surface
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [jeffp] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
James Haycraft wrote:
Why don't you just move the wheel backwards using the rear wheel dropout screws...

That is what I attend to do but I am worried about the skewer being set back equal distance on the right and left side. Not to mention if I set it back it may want to pull forward on the drive side with the additional force. That is why I would like to put a spacer there. Even if I could line it up perfectly; I would like the peace of mind to know it will not move over the course of a race.



jeffp wrote:
I can't imagine that if your diagram is accurate that the pads are actually hitting the braking surface and not rest of the super9 beyond the braking surface

Well the diagram is not to scale nor is it very accurate in sizing in any way. The angle of the caliper is quite different. The point of the diagram was to show that there is clearance at the brake pads but when the wheel is fully inflated, it very slightly rubs against the calipers but the brake pads are clear
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [zilla] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I will stick with my comment, as even with very tall tires back there, ie 4000s 23mm, it was never close to doing what you show it doing with magura brakes. unless you have the pads too far up on the brake arms and are pushing the wheel too far forward as a result. if the pads are at the bottom of the brake slot, your tire will not be hitting the brake.
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [jeffp] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
(sincere question; I am no way trying to argue with you)
How could I be pushing my wheel too far forward? Yes I push it all the way forward in the horizontal dropouts to make sure that it is supported and even; Do you not do this? You leave a gap between your skewer and the front of the dropouts? That doesn't make you worry?

Also I used to run a 4000s 23mm on a flo 90 on there with no problem. I just recently switched to the force/super 9 and it seems it is a little "taller"
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [Machee] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I'll challenge this and say it is possible. But not with any stock hardware.....

Not ready to show the fruits of my labor here yet though.
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [zilla] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
you can use the set screws for alignment, but skewer pressure/tension is what holds the wheel in place. sometimes I use the set screws, sometimes I don't. my wheels don't slip. not really hard to line wheel up, well, I have found when not using them I sometimes have to stop and slightly tweak wheel position as I too hastily set it up to head out and shifting is a bit "off".

if you are going to use the taller set up, adjust pad location first, so you will be on the brake track when you move wheel back in horizontal dropout. just moving wheel back and not touching brakes will make pads hit tire. tires are not going to be durable to brake pads
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [jeffp] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Yes you could tighten the hell out of the skewers and it would be very hard for them to move. According to Zipp though, the skewers should be tightened such that "a slight indention is in your finger" so I took that as not very tight at all. I assumed it was to prevent any compression of the wheel hub.

The brake pads are not a problem at all. I've adjusted them 10 times and removed the inner spacer to allow for more clearance. They line up and have quite a bit clearance to adjust in any direction to line up with the wheel once I have found a way to back it up slightly.

I'm not sure what set screws you are referring to for alignment? The only set screws that come to mind are the set screws on the brake pads; but again the brake pads have tons of adjustment left in them.


@Zach: I was thinking of cutting a piece of rubber tubing to fit between the skewer and front of the dropout but that wouldn't be too elegant of a fix. Apparently you have a better solution?
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [zilla] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
cervelos come with little set screws in the horizontal dropouts. 2.5mm I believe. set an allen wrench in there and rotate ccw and see if there are there. might be fully inserted. they are not meant to support wheel load, just ease in alignment. skewers still hold the wheel in place( I think they might bend if you tried to use them for wheel support(maybe)

tension with zipp skewers does not need to be that high to hold wheel in place, really
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [jeffp] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Roger that.

I'll look at it this evening. Thank you for the help sir
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [zilla] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
wasn't replying to the skewer thing. I do what jeffp does.

I was referring to mecnical brakes on a p5-6 fork while still using the beard
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [zachboring] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I have the old style Di2 (10spd) have had a few issues with wires getting crimped when having to take apart/ put back together headset.

I cannot seem to locate this part: Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 7970 SM-EW79A-I

in lieu of finding that part, and avoiding replacing with the newest 11 speed groupset, i'd like to find an electrician that i can fedex this wiring harness to and have them rebuild it for me hopefully within a week.

does anyone have any ideas or experience with this? or better a spare SM-EW79A-I around?
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [zilla] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
inside the dropouts you will see a small screw, that limits how close skewer is from the frame, try unscrewing it a bit

pls make sure both sides left and right are unscrewed EXACTLY same amount
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [David Byer] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
David: I dropped you a PM but thought I'd leverage the collective knowledge of ST as well while you're in Europe...

I am attempting to upgrade to the new Ultegra Di2 system in my P5... Everything is installed and generally working. However, I absolutely cannot seem to get the Shimano Di2 (EW-SD50) cable (connecting the junction boxes) past the cable stops in the P5's down tube. It's the last piece of this puzzle. I can get the cable past the ICS3 holes in the bucket, of course, but not (what appears to be) the cable stops about 3-4 inches below that hole. I have tried it all- dental floss, shifter cable, etc- the EW cable always gets stuck there. It seems to be the length and inflexible nature of the cable end connector that is preventing the smooth passage of the cable down to the BB.

I feel like I am left with two stressful options: either splicing the cable and threading it through, or drilling another hole in the bucket, neither of which is appealing to me. (The back vertical hole is now already taken by the Magura line and cannot accomodate the ED-SD50.) I would be inclined to drill the hole, but am not comfortable removing the Magura cable already there and with that and the stem, there's not a large margin for error in drilling a clean hole

Any advice on how an intermediate amatuer bike mechanic can get the Shimano EW-SD50 cable past the cable stops in the P5 down tube?

I noticed there are two other holes in the bucket. I don't plan to ever go back to mech cables on this bike. Could I widen those holes, or are there cable stops further down those holes as well, that would leave me in exactly the same place with the larger center hole?

TIA
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [HankRearden] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I believe your magura hose is routed wront. It should have been down the hole you are trying to put the di2 cable in. That being said, I am not sure why there would be a cable stop where the rear brake housing goes as I didn't think the p5 had bare cable inside the frame for the brake when using mechanical brakes.

I would suggest agains drilling simply for resale purposes
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [HankRearden] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
you can remove the fork and route the wire from the bb up to the headtube(with bike angled appropriately for gravity or using a pull wire/cable) then when it comes out of down tube below the bucket, route up through the bucket. should be much easier
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [jeffp] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
@ Zach: I think you're correct- when my LBS repaired my bike and the severed cables after my accident, they appear to have slid the new Magura rear brake hose down the wrong (back) opening. Reviewing the Di2 installation manual online, Cervelo does direct sending the Di2 cable throw the back vertical hole of the bucket. However, that begs the question- where then should the Magura hose (which is a thicker cable than the Di2) go down? It cannot fit through the same hole as Di2, and as you can see from my photo below, it certainly could not go down any of the three ICS3 tubes- which only one (the center) can accommodate the 5mm Di2 and the others too small for even that. When I tried to drag Di2 through with a cable shifter, just one roll of wrapped electrical tape prevented it from fitting down the middle tube. Given that, is it reasonable to suggest that Cervelo never anticipated the (girth of the) 2nd generation of Di2 cable?

@ Jeff: Excellent idea- I never thought of that. However, once I get Di2 up and underneath the bucket, where do I go from there? I cannot wrap that cable up and around the back opening, and the ICS3 tubes are obviously secured in there pretty solid... do I then need to drill through the bucket? Or must I cut open the (larger) center ICS3 cable and thread the cable up through that?

And if so, who can recommend the best solution (drill bit or similar?) to cut through the bucket or cables? I'm obviously nervous about cutting carbon, but even more nervous about splicing Di2. I guess I'm also disappointed that this is the best situation for P5 and Di2.


Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [HankRearden] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
It's been a while but I thought the magura line fit in the middle tube of the ics3. Could be wrong though. There is not modification required to get this to work.

ETA: that is what the manual you linked says too
Last edited by: zachboring: Jul 9, 15 13:12
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [HankRearden] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Actually, Zach you're 100% correct: now having reviewed the installation guide closer, it does clearly state that the Magura rear hose should be routed through the middle ICS3 tube above. And that blows my mind, for all the reasons I mentioned above. I was almost certain the Magura hose is thicker than Di2 EW-SD50, and the Di2 definitely cannot fit through it more than 3-4 inches. Maybe it's the rigid (~1in) Di2 connector winding around the tube's curve that prevents it's passage, and not any stop as I previously assumed (incorrectly).

Regardless, I'd love to hear confirmation that I'm wrong and that the Magura rear brake cable does indeed slide down that center tube easily. My Cervelo authorized LBS decided it did not, and I'm not about to try to reassemble and reroute that hose myself so perhaps the point is irrelevant, but it'd be interested to know that...
Last edited by: HankRearden: Jul 9, 15 13:19
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [HankRearden] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I added the same thing to my comment. The stiffness of the plug end/curve of the stop might be why. I am 99% sure it fits in the middle tube no problems
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [HankRearden] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
never looked at the underside of my p5 when I had it and p3 does not look like that. can't help any more
Quote Reply
Re: The official Cervelo P5 thread [David Byer] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Hey David,

I haven't seen this brought up yet, but I've had problems with my rear wheel "slipping" out of the horizontal dropouts and rubbing against my brake pad during the ride.

I have the dropout screws set so that the wheel is centered between the pads.
The slip will typically happen after riding for maybe 20-30k when I notice the wheel rubbing the non-driveside brake pad.
If I undo the quick release and retighten the wheel, it is centered again so the problem is not the dropouts.

I have the maguras and running a Zipp Super 9 cc. I've tried tightening the skewer as much as possible.
I'm out of ideas.

Thoughts?
Quote Reply

Prev Next