Hi Damon,
The seat post collar bolt holes stripped on my P5 frame. In an earlier post you mentioned that this could be repaired with a helicoil. Can you please share more details on this procedure?

1. What size helicoil should I use?
2. What drill and tap size should I use to prep the hole for the helicoil?

Thank you so much for your help.

P5 build finally complete. Took 3 bottom brackets, 2 cranks, and almost a full bottle of Royal Blood, but here it is:


Just need to machine a plate for another 1cm of reach for the arm pads.

Damon no longer works for Cervelo, but maybe Jakub Macel can pipe in

How did that happen? Would you have a tip that it doesn't happen to me?

Thanks

Congratulations! Why did it take 3 BBs? (With me it took 2, because Campy cranks just didn't fit)
As I understand, the rod between the saddlepin and the bottleholder is stainless steel (of X-lab).
I think about an aluminium one. (Just a 10mm rod from the tools-shop in which
I drill holes and make thread) Just because it would be lighter. Or maybe Xlab decided that 10mm aluminium is not
strong enough?

1st BB was a SRAM PF30. The crank was a BB30 Vision Carbon Trimax, but the spindle was 68mm, so too short. I then switched to an FSA SL-K crank, but the SRAM PF30 doesn't work with the FSA crank.
2nd BB was an FSA PF30. I was too quick to install and tried to pressfit both cups at the same time and destroyed the BB liner.
3rd BB was an FSA PF30 and everything is good.

Front Magura was super easy to bleed. Rear Magura was damn near impossible and I think it still has a leak near the threaded bolt on the brake lever.

The X-Lab Delta is steel and for good reason. I made an aluminum version but after just a few flexes (from road vibration and bumps), it cracked at the formed angle. The weight really isn't that much different.

I was using a torque wrench at 4NM but I have been told to go down to 3 Nm now as the Cervwlo specs have been revised. To avoid this, I would recommend always using a torque wrench at the recommended torque of 3 Nm and be patient.

I was lucky that after mounting I did not have to bleed. Will have a problem next winter though, because I want to exchange my basebar and as I understand I have to cut off the part of the hose which is surrounded by the "olive". Then, the hose will probably be too short and I'll have to exchange the hose which is going to be tricky at the brakeleavers. But as I read, that should work.

I wanted to do exactly that. Thank you for your information, I know now that I can refrain from that action!

I also go to 4NM but in future I will stop at 3NM.

Thank you for your information!

Hi David, or anyone who knows.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but is there a way to tell which of the arm pad metal pieces is left and which one goes on the right?

Thanks!

Anyone ever have issues or hear of issues w/ the high-mount breaking? Carbon buckled near the front two bolts. This happened at mile 45 at Oceanside this weekend (not fun).

yeah, there was a recall for that issue last spring/late winter

Did you buy it new? My dealer called me right when the recall came out and it was promptly replaced with no issue. I believe I received an e-mail directly from Cervelo too.

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David
* Ironman for Life! (Blog) * IM Everyday Hero Video * Daggett Shuler Law *
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Right, but these had been inspected, had the green sticker, etc. Wasn't sure if there were further issues. Either way, I'll take into the shop and have them work it out w/ 3T/Cervelo.

Thanks guys.

how is your flatkit setup? Is your tube wedged under the seat?

Yep, tube, levers, all in a black balloon.

Just finished my di2 hack for the maguras. Hard to wire through the aerobars, but works well!

Damon,

Do you know what siaze wrench to use on the collet on the 3T Aduro bars.
Any tips when a person wants to adjust these?

Thanks

Michael

Zipp Vuka Wing extenders turned diagonally... check this thread, I posted it in here somewhere.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

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Has anyone tried 35/45 degree extensions on the P5? I am looking at the Drag 2 Zero extensions for time trialling, the aduro set up means I would have to cut off a lot of extension to bring in the reach

Not sure my story helps but I had clicking in my P5-Six for quite a while, it drove me nuts. I brought it to the shop, they took out the bottom bracket and greased it, but the clicking came back after a few weeks. I then took out the bottom bracket twice myself, still the clicking came back. Finally I told them in the store again and they said that it may be the plastic cups from the bottom bracket as other Cervelos have had similar issues with these. They changed them to aluminum cups and bingo, the clicking was gone.

Mike

Yes, you need a 30mm wrench -- I bought an adjustable one, comes in handy when fixing the toilet, too. Loosen them, pull out or push in (as far as the cables go), tighten them to the same point as before, that's what I did.

Any strong opinions on P5-3 build with Tririg cockpit/brakes as compared to P5-6 setup? It seems to me that i wouldn't be giving much up in terms of aero, save fork contribution. I can get a P5-3 frame for a lot less.

Cheers!

Acquired about a month ago. Dialed in now. Using the Torhans Aero Z BTA. Should I explain the seat angle now, or wait until someone asks like they always do with all of my bikes? The neon yellow is a vinyl application.

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Rock Chalk!

Guys bit of help

so i got my P5 and after installing the seat it is definitely skewed to one side - ie non drive side is higher than drive side. It is not one prong the whole saddle so it seems

when i undo the tighening bolt it goes to straight but while tightening it pulls the the drive side rail down

not much - 2 degrees nevertheless

any idea? everything is stock

Adamo Saddle?