I just tested the bike and yes, I've got a problem with the crank.
I dismounted it but I do not see a solution right now.
I contacted campagnolo here in Germany to see if they have a solution, and am waiting now for an answer.
Maybe the P5 and the crank are just not compatible, and I have to buy another crank.

Neat bike, but I hope you are planning on getting a new aerobar though, because that is a really really slow aerobar.

I just mounted my old basebar, and do not yet know whether to buy another one. This one though is very flexible to adjust, and I couldn't mount the two bottles on the aerobar which comes standard with the P5-six for example.

To the posts concerning the battery: the new (slim,long) battery of Campagnolo would have costed me some hundreds of Euros more. It would maybe have fitted in the compartment above the BB, but it wouldn't have been so easy to fix: the mounting part which comes with the bike can only be used with a DI2-battery. I've been thinking too to put my present battery low in the frame-triangle, but could not find out a satisfying solution for the cabling. I also find it optically nice how I put it on the position where normally bento-boxes are placed, but that's purely subjective.

well the clean front of the p5-six is what gives it the aero advantage - have you considered one bottle behind the saddle?

Yes I know that windtunneltests of cerv�lo proved that a bottle behind the saddle is ok.
I do not like to grab behind the saddle though, I tried that out during races but it just doesn't suit me.
I will however probably mount a bottle behind the saddle at middle or long distances, to put my tools
and spare tire in.
Furthermore I need three bottles: one for my gels (filled up with some water), one with water to drink with
my gels and one for isotonic water. On my old bike I had a bottle on the saddle-tube which is sadly not foreseen
however on the p5.


To my crankproblem: Campagnolo were honest to say they don't see a solution. I'm thinking of buying a ROTOR 3D+ crankset now.

Could someone please let me know which headset would be the best option for the P5?

Many thanks!

---

Chris Walker.
Gibraltar,
Europe

I can't tell you what's the best head set, but I can let share my experiences:
My P5 came with an FSA orbit is-2, with which there are two things to say:
Firstly, it came without a crown race although the fork-manual which came with the bike said "press the crown race onto the fork". I contacted the company where I bought the bike and they said that's not necessary with the P5-three I purchased, since the fork has an intergrated crown race. I mounted the fork thus without a separate crown race and it seems to work, although the clearance with the frame is less than 1 mm.
Secondly, the lower bearing which I pressed into the frame does not appear to have a tight fit. (I mounted without loctite).
So everything SEEMS to be allright, and the future will prove if it IS.

Sorry that I didn't answer your question entirely, but you might consider these experiences.

Not directed at you.

But does anyone have any extra aduro spacers lying around that they do not use? Picked up a set of the bars and need to find some spacers. Need ~25-30 mm total.

I might... let me check the parts bin.

---

Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Great thanks!

Any luck?

yeah I've got some... could probably squeeze you out 25mm

---

Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Just let me know and pm what you think is a fair price.

Thanks!

I've got 35mm of spacers, 25mm of which are slotted for easy on/off, but I'm trying to figure out the piece that the beard mounts to, which I only have one of apparently.

---

Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Not worried about the beard attachment.

Send you pm

I want to remove some of the spacers under the aerobars. Is there a way to quickly uncouple the front brake hose on the P5 6 and the Maguara 8 without having to replace the olive each time? Also is there a current bolt torque chart out there specific for the P5?

Hi Damon,

Are the wire lengths the same for a 54cm frame?

Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!

Ake

you essentially want to have slots cut into your spacers for that and not sure how easy that makes it as you only have limited rear brake housing for taking bars off(my front was always so short, I had to take brake off of fork to pull bars, so maybe rear housing is long enough. somewhere in this thread is an image of one person's slotting. I would probably use two slots so the spacer portion was still fully intact and take rear cables out the back and the front housing out the side

Thank you.

Been perusing these articles for a while since buying my P5 and looking at the pros & cons of different ideas. Thanks all for your input !. Finally finished modifying the front end of my P5.

DI2. Looked at the cateye buttons option - even tried them but didn't like the (in my mind) perceived frailty of the soldering. Also didn't trust the buttons in terms of long term adherence. Went with the option of cutting off the button from a DI2 lever but used body filler and paint to blend them in.


BTW - I used the SM-JC41 connector which allowed me to keep the 3 port junction box (rather than having to use a 5-port) which meant I could keep all wiring and hardware internal.

Computer Mount. Kept it simple. Carbon tube cut slightly wider than the width of the bars. Then dremelled some concave curved and attached with a cable tie.


After doing all the research the final amount of 'work' for both jobs was about 1/2 a day. Made the aeromount whilst the body filler dried on the levers.

Thanks all again for your suggestions

---

Triathlon Aust Performance Coach
Certified Sports Nutritionist
Retul Bike Fitter
Coffee Lover

Very nicely done!

David,

What is the likelihood that 22.0 dia extensions will work with the aduro? trying to get some taller 40 or 50 deg ski extensions and finding any in 22.2 seems to not be that easy. USE are 22.0 and appear to be tall enough

Hey Jeffp,

I do not recommend using 22.0. While it is a small difference in terms of measurement, it is a big difference in terms of clamping. Off the top of my head, I can't think of a 22.2 diameter extension with the 40-50 degree angle but I'll start a little research to see what I can come up with.

Thanks,

---

David Byer
Cerv�lo

zipps are about 40deg, but not enough rise

guess it might have to be some alum and reversed and then new slot created for routing

what I really need it to be able to get enough rise while not getting too long(for certain events)

After a couple years of lusting for it I finally got my new P5. 2014 Dura-Ace Di2. I really wanted to have the shifting on the brake and luckily my shop mechanic has been doing it for awhile and did an amazing job. He has people mail them their levers and he'll do the work and send them back. I know a few people on here have been asking how to do it. If you're interested check out the shop in my signature, call and ask for Park or John.



His collection of old brake levers.