Hi hobie1,
Another great photo, thanks!
COMPATIBILITY
Sorry, but the crank and BB in your photo are not compatible. The crank is a nice Rotor 3D (not 3D+; the + would indicate a larger 30 mm spindle diameter). The BB is an FSA.
Here's the incompatibility: Rotor's 3D crank follows Shimano's 24 mm spindle dimensions. But the bottom bracket is for FSA cranks. While FSA and Shimano both have approximately 24 mm spindles, the problem is Shimano is 24mm minus a fraction of a millimeter, while FSA is 24 plus a fraction of a millimeter. Unofficially, with the plastic bushings each company uses in their threaded BBs, Shimano and FSA cranks and bottom brackets can sometimes be mixed, but with metal on metal a more precise match is needed. Otherwise a Rotor 3D crank will have radial play between the spindle and FSA's bearing ID, which accelerates wear and fatigue and leads to poor shifting and more front derailleur rub.
Simplest solution IMHO is to simply get a Rotor 46-24 BBright bottom bracket.
INSTALLATION
To install the bb, read and follow the instructions in the PDF linked from the bottom of the BBright web site,
http://bbright.net/. The Rotor 46-24 BBright bottom bracket has metal cups and the right bearing is outside the frame, so you must use LocTite, as instructed there.
FRAME PREP
One other detail with this bottom bracket and the P5 frame: the metal cups extend into the frame and may interfere with traces of carbon inside the frame where the 46mm ID steps down to about 44.5mm. (See the 44.5 dimension on page 2 of the BBright technical drawings PDF, also linked from the BBright home page and specificaly at this link:
http://bbright.net/bbrightdrawings.pdf .) To make sure this BB doesn't interfere, simply enlarge the 44.5mm diameter inside the frame. The ridge in the frame where you are enlarging the dimameter is simply left over carbon from the molding process and can easily be sanded down by hand or carefully using a light touch with a Dremel tool's sanding drum. Be careful not to disturb the molded 46mm diameter where the LocTite will engage the cups. Don't breathe carbon dust.
Wow, we are really getting down into the details here - I apologize to other forum users, but for a good, reliable bike assembly, it's important these details are done right. I hope this information can help others too!
Cheers,
Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)
