Hi Damon,


I got my stack and reach from the P5 Geometry PDF on the Cervelo site.

My Stack is 655 and Reach is 415 from my previous bike.

I can't seem to find a 415 reach in your table. How do I determine my size for the P5 SIX?


Thank you,


Francis

What size is your old bike? What stem length do you have on it now? That seems like a very very short reach.

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Brandon Marsh - Website | @BrandonMarshTX | RokaSports | 1stEndurance | ATC Bikeshop |

Speed Concept Medium. Have a 60mm stem on it.

Simply comparing the chart on Slowtwitch it looks like a 54cm P5 matches well with the medium Speed Concept. But, the reach that you have doesn't match with the Cervelo pages.

http://www.slowtwitch.com/stackreach/

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Brandon Marsh - Website | @BrandonMarshTX | RokaSports | 1stEndurance | ATC Bikeshop |

Hobie is referencing arm pad stack and reach. And I think what the problem is, results from the difference in adjustment on the two bikes. The speed concept, because of the P-clamps, have a huge range fore/aft; whereas on the P5-6 the arm pads are more limited.

The stack and reaches are very similar between a M SC9 and a 54cm P5-6 but their respective stem/aerobars defines their geometry more. The P5-6 is too long with the aduro for your current fit.

To make the P5 work, it appears you'd need a different aerobar.

Yes, very very familiar with Cervelo's chart and the adjustability of the P5. I was going to say that he must have the pads really far back on the Speed Concept. The Aduro let's you bring them back, but likely not quite far enough to achieve a 415mm reach. I'm not familiar enough wit other brands of bars. Even with a really short stem (60mm) and a standard 3T aerobar, the reach to the armrests may not be short enough.

Another way to check, but you would need to compare the two bikes in person is to compare the reach to the end of the aerobars/shifters where your hands are. Then it becomes a question of where on your forearms you want to rest your arms on the armrests. You might be able to achieve the same reach to the shifters, but not to the armpads. I like my armrests closer to my elbows that Amy (my wife) for example, so she is 'ok' with a longer reach provided her hands/shifters are in the same location.

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Brandon Marsh - Website | @BrandonMarshTX | RokaSports | 1stEndurance | ATC Bikeshop |

Runless I think you hit it right on the dot!

I was looking at a P5-3 with aftermarket more adjustable aerobars but I just love the way the front end of the P5-6 looks. Based on the charts of Cervelo I am on a 54. I sat on a 51 thought and it was almost as close to the fit of my M SC-9. You are right, the Bars of the P5-6 have very limited adjustments.

That's why I'm more inclined to the size 51 P5-6. Just wondering why my reach is not on Cervelo's table for the size 51. The shortest on the Table they have is 440. But on the Geometry the reach is 397 but from BB to rear of stem. For the SC9 it's 408.

Yeah, I think we are saying the same thing. Any aerobar with pad placement independent of the extension clamp hardware offers more rearward adjustability.

Hobie, I don't think a 51 is necessarily the right answer, just based on stack. You'd need pretty much every spacer to get to your preferred stack. You're a pretty high/short reach fit; and the P5 is a bike that is slightly long/low.

Is it possible to charge the P5's Dura-Ace Di2 SM-BTR1 battery "remotely" via the 3 or 5 port junction box with SM-BCR2 or is that possible only for the SM-BTR2 battery? I'd love to be able to charge without removing the battery.

How about configuration and firmware upgrades for the P5's Dura-Ace Di2? SM-BCR2 work for that?

My first couple of P5 rides outside this past weekend, and it was epic. 50km in the pouring rain to a 10km trail run race, then 50km back home. 8 degrees Celsius made it cold, miserable...and perfect to HTFU.

Now, on to the P5 part of the post. My aero bars are not staying put in the Aduro bars. My LBS torqued the collet nuts, and after a short ride outside a week ago, I torqued them some more, using an adjustable wrench and rag to protect the cosmetics. They are tight enough that I am afraid of breaking something by over tightening them, but they are not staying put.

After my ride on the weekend the aero bar extensions have ended up rotated slightly in the Aduro bars. I cannot easily rotate them back, so I'll loosen the collet nuts and realign them, but I believe that they will simply move again with any sort of hard effort while pedaling.

So - any tricks or ideas to keep these from moving?

I had thought about putting a couple of small dabs of tubular glue on the extensions before inserting them, but it is messy stuff and it could make for problems when trying to remove the bars if necessary for service or transport.

Suggestions welcomed...thanks.

Hi hobie1,

Brandon and Runless have given great advice already. I can only add that the P5 with Aduro bar is not compatible with your current position. Might work with any number of other bars, especially bars with arm pads mounted on the extensions - you could potentially mount them quite far back.

As Brandon indicated, arm pad reach can sometimes vary up to several centimeters as a matter of personal preference - could this be the case with you? Something to consider.

Also, it may be worth considering whether your current position is optimum. I don't know you, or your fit history, so I'm not trying to "fit you over the internet", but any arm pad position the P5 can't reach with the Aduro bar raises a potential red flag with me. There could be some individual explanation that validates your position, in which case you could consider using a different bar on the P5. It's just that it's quite unusual to find someone's fit coordinates that far off the average.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

My P5 six almost finished. Just the Max2power to install when it arrives next week

Ok, the key question here is why does your paint job look different than mine? Is this what the most recent P5s look like? Or is this custom? Heck mine is only two months old and it is now looking old?

It's been me mentioned already. That design is/was used for a few specific countries.

Looks worlds better than the design we know of though. :(

So, did this work as expected? The soldering photos would earn you royal respect from all of us insecures. :)

I used alot of plumbing "teflon" tape.
Now the aero extensions stay in place.

Hi Leahnp
Your P5 looks fantastic!
I also have the same P5 with the new paint scheme and also running Zipp 808s and DI 2.
I have a Power to Max PM on order also.
Can you please post a picture once you have your PM installed?
Enjoy your ride
Jono

Jon I am hoping that with German efficiency that It will arrive on the 27th in time for me to get it installed for Roth.

Are you based in the UK as that seems to be only location the new scheme has appeared? Local 40km TT tonight to give it a real road test. Compared to my previous TT bike (Trek Speed Concept 9.5) this feels more robust and less prone to creaking when the road surface is a tad lumpy. Fit wise I transferred from a Medium 55 Trek to the 54 without issue. I could go lower but having broken my shoulder last year I am limited at the moment and when I go lower the steerer gets chopped again so it really is a bike for life.

May I ask you of more detail ? If possible, the picture would be perfect.
I've stopped the hack process, just before splicing wires and soldering them on the board.

has anyone got a photo of the TRP/ Tektro rear cable brake installed (without the cover?) if so can you share it? Have you used the noodle or a yoke arrangement? h0w does the rear brale cable lead to the calliper? is it a full length outer to the noodle?
cheers
Gerry

I called cust. serv on a couple of questions, re ext torque, they said 25Nm and said as that is had to measure that one could tighten them until the first thread came through the collet end. aplly plenty of grease to threads before tightening too. I did not tighten mine that much as mine was more a question of why they pop/move when feeling tight. i probably should tighten a bit more to eliminate it completely, but have not yet. i have noticed that they do appear to have rotated slightly, but not 100% sure(slightly to right from being symetrical), so maybe teh tiem is coming.

first, though i need a new torx bolt for teh magura so i can bleed a bit out of system. mine is stripped(wtf, thought these things were designed so that wouldn't happen, torx that is)

The mechanic stripped the same screw on my friend's P5 (I assume it's the torx screw on top of the Magura levers). Another mechanic I talked to claimed he had heard that story several times before on Magura screws since they for some reason (weight?) insist on making all/most screws aluminum. Perhaps they should keep some (all) of the screws in steel. I'm not sorry my RT6 TT has steel screws and not aluminum screws on the caliper (though the carbon levers from the RT8 TT are trick).

Does anyone know how the delivery situation with the Aduro bars (more specifically the X-Lo) is looking like? Am thinking about getting it to solve some issues with my current Tula setup - when I heard the distributor a couple a months ago they said 10 weeks delivery time (and those delivery times are usually optimistic). I assume all the Aduro bars produced now are made with the matte look.

my frame is matte, my bars are not

yup, that is the screw, so i am sort of screwed in the bad sense of the word :)

Hi jeff, hi MTM,

Sorry the screw is stripped. It's made of plastic and if I'm not mistaken has a tiny rubber O-ring on it to act as a seal. It doesn't need to be very tight; it's only job is to press the seal lightly against the hole. Too tight and the O-ring gets too distorted to seal reliably. To avoid overly distorting the rubber O-ring, the screw has an incredibly low torque spec of only 0.5 N*m (yes, just half a Newton-meter).

You can see this in figure L4 on page 12 in the manual:
http://www.magura.com/...t6-tt/downloads.html

Luckily the same screw is commonly used on lots of other Magura brakes so if an LBS works on Maguras a spare shouldn't be too hard to come by. If the don't, have them call Magura USA - those guys are super helpful.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi guys. What torque setting should I use for the P5 seat post bolts please? The manual doesn't say. I have already applied carbon paste to the seat post. Thank you.