You are probably correct on both counts. I have a bunch of different grommets laying around, I probably used the wrong one. And yes to that top arm of the rear der., pretty sure I have it positioned wrong, will mess with it tonight. Still find the long wire run, and its close proximity (like, laying on top of) to the cassette, a bit bothersome....

But raising the der. up a bit by properly positioning that top pivot arm will maybe raise the wire a little further away from the cassette..

I agree on the wire length and path. It looks like yours curves inward toward the wheel. Ideally, you would want it to remain in the plane of the seat stays and RD pivot axes. Mechanical housing does that naturally, because it is semi-rigid. Maybe you just need to bend the wire a little (or remove it on both ends and rotate it inside the seat stay) so that it stays more in the vertical plane.

Other than its path, I think the length of the exposed RD wire is good. It is close to direct, which is a ton shorter than a typical mechanical cable loop.

You may find a hard time mounting the new 8000's series RD as for whatever reason the felt hanger is slightly out of the norm with b-screw stop and size making fitment of the new designed RD with extension and 2 tabs problematic. This may have been changed, but referencing several 2016 models.

+1

I had the same issue with the b screw tab on my IA. It’s definitely not the idea orientation but t works

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the world's still turning? >>>>>>> the world's still turning

Hello to ev3ryone! Im new on this forum but ive been reading you for a while.
I have a concern about the new felt ia 10 2018 in europe (mainly black and red) im so in love with this bike and im about to buy:
http://m.feltbicycles.com/...g/product/2/10173478

Ive seen om pictures and spec that it may not come with handlebrakes with di2 buttons, and only a 3 port di2.. how come if the IA 10 2017 did? Anyway, what would I need to buy and install a part of the obvius tribrakes with di2 buttons, cables? junction box or the y shapped? no much clue with the electronic...
thank so much in advanve!!

If you are only adding the Di2 brake levers, all you need to do is swap the A-junction from the 3 port to the 5 port

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the world's still turning? >>>>>>> the world's still turning

These are the parts you would need:

• Di2 Brake Levers (you can use the 2-button 6800 or 9050 or the new 1-button 8050 or 9150)
  
• 2x E-Tube cables (measure your cable run; could be 400mm to get to A on the stem or base bar or >> longer to get to the Calpac or nose cone)
  
• 5-Port Junction A

You could use the Y-Cable, but I recommend the two individual cables because it makes the run easier through the basebar.

What specific problem did you have with the b-screw?
What I found was that I basically didn't need to use it. Correct me if I'm wrong, but -unscrewing- it (counter clockwise) moves it closer to the cassette? I basically have it unscrewed all the way. Top pully isn't really that close to the gears, but seems to be shifting fine now.

I changed the orientation of the top arm of the rd so that it is horizontal, and used a di2 grommet which holds the wire much straighter and shorter. Knock on wood, seems to be shifting fine at the moment. If I had to pick one odd thing....the tab/guard on the rd pulley cage, the one below the top pulley, the chain seems to come awfully close to touch it, almost looks like it does kind of touch it once in a while, when pedalling in the work stand.

Thanks for your reply!!! Im just worried wether the 5 port juntction fits where the 3 ports is or not...
Definetly tomorrow im ordering it after such a looong wait! xD

Pretty much the same; I had to almost back the screw out all the way to get it to fit. My RD shifts perfect, it’s just not the way it was set up on my previous bikes

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the world's still turning? >>>>>>> the world's still turning

Just finished mine today. I tweaked the B screw a little. Everything fits and functions perfectly. I really like synchro on the TT bike (did a quick outdoor check ride.)

Here's a close-up of my RD to show the chain route and how close I positioned my pulley to the cassette. I am running a 11-25 cassette, FYI.

Fits perfectly on my 2016 IA16. The adapter on the new Shadoe derailleur botls tight to the dropout, and the stop alighns with the tab on the extension.

Haven't had the same experience. It goes on but tabs were too tight for my liking as compared to several other hangers and r8000, likely some variability in paint/finish thickness.

I guess I must have asked for advice on a different Felt thread where Trent replied about how he and his shop addressed stopping the aero bar extensions and arm cups from moving. Twice the shop owner where I bought the 18 IA16 tightened the bolts on the V3 bars and I watched him use the appropriate torque. The bars continued to move around. Then I followed Trent's advice on the other thread along with the appropriate torque setting on the wrench and yesterday the right extension kept rotating around. Finally at the point of total frustration when I got home I used a regular ratchet and abandoned going by a torque setting. I don't think they are going to move again and if they do I may use epoxy. :-)

Love this bike though. So far I am near PR times from my old B10 on a common course and I am in horrible fitness right now. I can't wait to see what happens once I get in shape.

.....and to pass along a compliment of sorts to TriRig, some stranger on a road bike was hovering around me for a few miles. He passed me and then dropped back. He sat on my wheel for a while and then came up again and then finally said, "Dude, that is a sick front brake you got on that bike." :-) It is always fun to interact with other cyclists. It was almost as if Keanu Reeves said it personally in a beach bum kind of way. Made me smile. I guess I got some bling style points. :-)

Does the use of carbon paste (gritty grease stuff) like we use on seat posts, help keep the aero bars from moving/rotating?

I tried Park Tool assembly paste with the 8 nm torque and it moved yesterday, but I am far from being a bike mechanic.

I used carbon assembly paste on mine when I set it up and it hasn't been a problem but I remember it did slip on my first ride 2 years ago before I used the paste.

Thx. I'll be replacing the stock carbon extensions on my frd with a pair of aluminum Zipp evo 110's in a week or so, and will use a torque wrench with carbon paste, hopefully they'll hold. :)

An important thing to bear in mind which has been mentioned before by others on ST, is that torque is not always proportional to clamping force. For example dirty or corroded bolts or damaged threads might reach a given torque when the bolt is under much less tension than a clean undamaged bolt or greased bolt, simply because much of the torque applied is going into turning the bolt against resistance in the threads rather than applying a clamping force. Clean and greased bolts will, I presume, typically provide a higher clamping force for the same torque.
Did the manufacturer spec the torque with corroded bolts in mind, presumably not.I don't know if they will have allowed for greasing of bolts. I'm not an expert on fasteners or related conventions.

I've always wondered about that too.....is torque spec with greased bolts, dry bolts, etc.
And then of course you have the inaccuracy of torque wrenches.....
I've been wrenching on my own for 25 years, I only purchased a torque wrench a year ago, I'm not convinced it has helped me at all....

Good info and what Ai mentioned is what Trent said they did to remedy loose bars. My bolts were all brand new and torqued at the shop at assembly and then again when I brought it back after the initial ride. Then I bought the assembly paste removed all the new bolts, added Park Tool grease to the bolts, added Park Tool paste to the extension bars and then set the torque wrench to 8nm. But it maybe the torque wrench is not good. After yesterday's frustrating ride several bolts felt fairly loose using a normal ratchet. I did not use a whole lot of force with the normal ratchet, but I put all my weight on the arm cups and nothing budged. I may have wasted money on the particular torque wrench that I used. The shop owner was using a Park Tool torque wrench.

I believe the most accurate ones are the cheaper 'beam' style wrenches. The spring loaded click wrenches that are so popular can be way out of spec, and even if they start in spec when new, they can go out of spec.
One thing that I think a lot of people neglect to do, is after each use, unload the spring (ie. set the torque back to zero).

For bolt threads, my favorite has always been the finish line bronze anti-seize. Not even sure if they still sell it? Bought a can of it like 10 years ago....Lubricates and I've never had a single threaded anything get stuck when using it. :)

Yes!... My new Calpac just arrived...
Not seen it, yet, as I'm away till Thursday, but great speedy service form BryanD and the guys at InsideOut Sports ;)

My new calpac won't fit on my 2015 FRD frame, I need to take a file or dremel to my frameset to get it to fit in.... :( May just stick with the original.

Aside from a strip of electrical tape, has anyone come up with a clean/creative way to keep the original calpac from falling off?
I'm thinking of doing the magnet thing for the flap that someone posted a while ago..

I was going to try a piece of Velcro between calpac base and top, where the top slides over the extended sides and hooks into place....