In the nose cone that are on the FRD and IA1. We may be talking about different setups if you have a IAxx. Either way if you have a 5 port junction A that’s all you need. They are a big bigger than the 3 port junction A though, so maybe the extra B junction may be because the 5 port won’t fit.

---

the world's still turning? >>>>>>> the world's still turning

Check out this Felt Di2 installation. It is how I will be doing mine. The EW-RS910 Junction A in an extension with a 6-port Junction B hidden in the Tririg stem.

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...ost=6506920#p6506920

Thanks. Looks like I might be building up an FRD frame instead of the IA16...

Nice. My two favorite IA color schemes are the new bright red IA16 and the prior gen FRD.

Hello, my local bike shop is having a close out sale on 2016 IA 16s for 2100. Wondering if you all think this is a good deal or maybe pay a little more to upgrade to the IA14. Thoughts?

$2,100 is a killer price for an IA16. The worth it to upgrade question depends a lot on the price of the IA14. The major upgrade you get in the IA14 is a way better crankset, a way better front brake, a better rear brake, better wheels, and Ultegra mechnical. There is real value in all those upgrades, depending on the cost difference.

Well they have the IA14 for 2,690 which would be at the top end of my budget not leaving me much more room for upgrades / proper fit. Decisions decisions!

I would get the IA16, then. Here's the reasoning...

• Crank: It is really heavy and flexy. But, it turns and powers you. Plus, you can easily upgrade to a used very good crank for $100 and a great used crank for $200.
• 105: There is nothing wrong with the IA16 105 derailleurs. If you get the urge, you can upgrade both for under $100.
• Wheels: If your upgrades include wheels in the future, then anything you buy will be way better than the IA14 wheels.
• Brakes: I would upgrade both brakes on the IA16. You could put a Shimano direct mount in back and the Vision brake (from the IA14) for relatively cheap.
  

Thank you very much for the info! I may try and go test ride the IA16 this weekend. Thank you

Get a proper fit from an independent bike fitter.... a good aero position will be as good as a year of training.

---

Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Yesterday I installed the new Calpac and draft box. While I was putting them on I felt like they were a waste of time; the new calpac is only 3/8 inch deeper and the draft box looked like it might hold a 4 pack of condoms at best. Boy was I surprised, the draft box holds all my flat fixing gear; tube in a cloth pouch, 2 co2's, 2 levers, co2 head and patches. The QR box looked bigger but it didn't hold all that. My small multi-tool went into the cal-pac, leaving plenty of room for gells and maybe a bar.

Very happy with the improvements; good job Felt!

(Was anyone able to get the center front mounting screw in on the new Cal-Pac? I didn't even try.)

---

---------------------------
''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law

With regards to the new calpac, isn't part of the big improvement that it won't fly off the bike, no electrical tape needed? :)

 
I'm sure the words are appreciated. The product folks at Felt worked hard on this project.

What was the end result for those outside the US getting hold of these at a reasonable price?
I want to switch to the new Calpac, and maybe also the draft box. In Ireland.

Didn't one of the dealers post here that they would ship them to you over there? Check back through the thread and I think you will find it.

---

---------------------------
''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law

I had my LBS do the new calpac when i needed a recabling job anyways, had no issues with it!

Love how much more I can get in it, lacks the side bulges and easier to get into!

Up in Canada though that draft box has been on back order for MONTHS!!!

I borrowed a speed concept draft box before, but want the felt one!!

Any dealer with access to one willing to ship to Canada..... :p

Yes, BryanD offered that help.

That's great!

And I just want to add that in my previous post it looked like the draft box would only hold 4 condums because I need size XX-large!!!

---

---------------------------
''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law

I just replaced my calpac, looks like a big improvement. I did put in the center front bolt, I removed the bolt on the front of the top piece for easier access though

---

the world's still turning? >>>>>>> the world's still turning

Good thinking. Tomorrow I'll put the center bolt in.

Thanks!

---

---------------------------
''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law

Hi all, sorry if this a dumb question...
Getting ready to install my Wheelsmfg conversion outboard BB for shimano.

I removed the stock bearings from the frame, and I guess I expected to see a removeable BB30 ring circlip thing on each side of the BB shell. But am I correct in saying that these frames don't have them, they have a molded in lip instead? This won't be a barrier to me pressing in the wheelsmfg BB, will it?

Thanks!

Hi all, got the answer to my above question, now bumping up for a couple more!
Almost completed my build, couple of pics linked...

Couple issues.

1. the new calpac won't fit. I tried to force the base into the frame as hard as I could without feeling like I was either going to break the frame or the box, just won't go all the way in, probably has a 5mm gap between the lip of the box and the top tube......and further, the center and rear screw holes don't like up with the frame screw holes!! They are further back on the calpac base. Even lined up to the original calpac base and obvious that the holes are set back out of alignment. How could they mess that up??

2. Anyone have experience installing one of the new Ultegra 8050 di2 rd's? The wire from the frame to the der. seems like a very long run, and almost touches the cassette. It also seems like the wire would be in the way of trying to remove the wheel. I haven't installed the chain yet since maybe I have the rd connected wrong (pivot bolt in wrong position?). Shimano's online manuals, and the manual that was in the box, are pretty useless...

1. With regards to the calpak if you can't get it down in position and the holes are off center it's obvious something is pushing it back making it impossible to get it down. Does the front holes of the calpak match?

2. I had a look at the pictures of the new FRD and IA10 on Felt website. It looks like the little extension piece moves your RD to its lowest position while the new FRD has it at its highest postion and the IA10 some where in between.

---

Personal best:
Ironman 9:22:02
Ironman 70.3 4:20:00

BTW, did Felt re-design the saddle clamp in the seat post after 2015? Mine doesn't seem to have any of the interlocking teeth things, its just a plain cylinder that passes through the post, kind of like on my trek...


like this:
http://www.tririg.com/..._IA_Launch&num=2

Very cool. I will be doing my IA16 Ultegra (short cage) Di2 installation this weekend, I will have some first-hand feedback for you soon.

One quick observation... you have the mechanical RD grommet. Felt has two grommets in their arsenal-- one for mechanical and the other, with a smaller hole, for Di2. I got the Di2 grommet from my LBS for my upgrade.

I think the little extension part of the RD may be angled too far forward. I think it supposed to be closer to horizontal. There is a little tab on that piece that is supposed to line up and rest against the stop tab on the dropout. I think that stop tab is visible on the dropout in the first picture.