Apart from perhaps removing the frame mounted bottle, an aero helmet would seem to be your lowest hanging fruit.
Maybe get one with a stubbier tail, as it will be more aerodynamically forgiving if you move your head around.

FWIW, I recently bought an LG P09 and love it.

I'll WAG my opinions. :)


1.) Slice->Probably helpful, but $$. It'd be my last recourse. The P2 is very, very good as far as bang for buck, however. That and a bling aerobar isn't giving up much (if at all) to the "superbikes".

2.) Alpha X is bucks. I just picked up an alloy Felt Bayonet for my track bike pursuit bars--while I won't be worried about cables its routing looks very tidy. I have Vision's semi-integrated on my tri bike, and that's another bar high on the bang:buck chart.

3/4.) Seat tube water bottles seem to measure pretty neutral drag-wise, so it's not a bad location. Access-wise it's probably less than ideal (I don't use it presently, so I don't know). Saddle bag vs bottle for a flat kit seems to be more of a personal opinion. Do whichever seems the most convenient.

5.) With your hamstring/mobility issues, seriously consider moving down crank size (if you haven't). Obviously your gearing will need to change to maintain foot travel to wheel travel (gain ratio in Sheldon Brown parlance), but you're in the very group most likely to benefit from shorter cranks. This would be my first move, honestly.

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The question of who is right and who is wrong has seemed to me always too small to be worth a moment's thought, while the question of what is right and what is wrong has seemed all-important.

-Albert J. Nock

I was thinking about a new helmet, and the LG P09 would be a top consideration. However, I tend to keep my head up (less than a hour races) and without access to a wind tunnel (I haven't tried the Chung method yet - maybe in the fall) I don't know how much better other helmets would be compared to my Giro Advantage 2.

Getting more horizontal is by far the greatest area for improvement.

Don't think you can buy a P2 frame.

Different shoe covers or just cut off the baggy top (what I did).

Felt Devox aluminum bars (used) are a good low cost option. They also made a carbon model that was non-UCI that is even better. Another low cost option are used Vision Techs, which I don't think are UCI either. I'd cut off the up-turned part.

At 6' I use 172.5mm cranks on my road bike and 170mm cranks on my TT bike. I have thought about 165mm cranks. I may make this change come fall. The problem is cost. I have Quarq cranks (power meter), and thus I'd have to sell and then buy a new power meter crank.

My inseam is 84.5cm or 33.25".

Yes. I'm working a lot on core and flexibility.

Bad new about the P2 frame - perhaps used?

I need new shoe covers; mine are on their last legs. Which ones are most aero?

Thanks for the bar suggestions. For bang for buck, are these options better than the Alpha X? Should there be an aero improvement compared to my current bars? I guess even if not, being able to move my arms in closer would probably be benefit enough? Is UCI legal necessary at Master's National Championships?

Can't you swap the Quarq spider (that has the actual measurement module) on to a new set of crank arms of the same crank type (e.g. sram red for sram red) for a nominal cost? I'd assume that's cheaper than flipping cranks via classifieds, etc. (Then you can sell your old crank arms)

While certainly shorter riders also benefit from shorter cranks, if you've got mobility issues, limiting the hip angle at the top of the pedal stroke is going to help a lot.

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The question of who is right and who is wrong has seemed to me always too small to be worth a moment's thought, while the question of what is right and what is wrong has seemed all-important.

-Albert J. Nock

Perhaps. I'll look into this option. Though, I might want to wait until the end of the season (mid-September) to make this change . . . or at least until July when most of my TT races subside for a couple of months and I can get used to the change and be ready to race my September races - Moriarty and Master's Nationals.

Would 165mm crank arms be appropriate?

Yes. I'm working a lot on core and flexibility.

I doubt it is a flexibility issue, and the only thing you need to do with your core is relax it. I had trouble bending over until I learned that "one weird trick". Just relax your core and bend over. Then learn to pedal while keeping your core relaxed. It will probably feel weird at first.

I need new shoe covers; mine are on their last legs. Which ones are most aero?

Something that fits tight and is water proof. I have some like yours that I cut the top off. Aero knee socks would probably be the fastest, but not UCI legal.

Thanks for the bar suggestions. For bang for buck, are these options better than the Alpha X?

No contest on price, but a little slower. I got some aluminum Felt Devox (Bayonet) on ebay for $80. Aluminum Visions are cheap on there also. Carbon ones are more of course. This place apparently has some old Vision bars new: http://www.3-athlon.com/...t-R-Bend-p-1370.html

The Tririg bars are definitely not UCI compliant. Aluminum Felts are, some of the carbons are not. Visions are if they have a 31.8 clamp, but probably not otherwise.

Best to look up the rules yourself, but I think the 3-1 airfoil rule still applies for Master's Nats.

Flexibility has nothing to do with your ability to get in a better position than what the pictures show. You need to be lower and reach further. At that point, if you're feeling your hamstrings, check for a saddle that's too high. There are far, far more gains to be made from your position than anything your could buy. Work on your position first, as it will likely dictate equipment choices (i.e. aero bar).

If your core is "engaged" you're wasting energy. ruff is correct...relax.

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Jim Manton / ERO Sports

Your comments about flexibility are at odds with my bike fitter. His belief is once I become more flexible the lower my position can become.

I have three races in the next 1.5 weeks, and then a two week break before the next race. During this break I may try lowering my stem 5-10mm (remove risers) and see how it goes.

As for core, I'm relaxed while riding. I just believe core work is good for me all-around.

Don't buy anything, it's your position that's the problem. I have incredibly short hamstrings (I'm about a foot from touching my toes), but I still have a good position. Don't worry about the loss of power as it takes riding in said position to adapt and a reduced CdA will compensate (and then some).

The other thing is you really need to work on your shrug. Your head is sticking up like a lollipop whereas if you dipped between your shoulder blades you'd already be much faster.

Hello wacomme and All.

rruff and others have noted what might be most important .... body position and various ways to improve it.

Water bottle between arms in front possibly an improvement instead of on mounting it on the seat tube.

And you may have noted that graphics that present a pressure gradient visual for a bicycle usually show a low pressure area behind your butt and the saddle. Improvements in aero can be accomplished by improving airflow to help fill this low pressure area.

As you may have noted most TT bikes have spent time and money designing streamlined seat posts.



Cervelo http://www.cervelo.com/...es/aerodynamics.html


(red = higher pressure blue = lower pressure)




http://www.cycling360media.com/...ms_STAR-CCM1_650.jpg

That means to get anything that blocks airflow to the low pressure area out of the way ... it might be worthwhile to get a minimalist flat kit and carry it somewhere smooth in the chest area of your jersey.

.

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Cheers, Neal

+1 mph Faster

Your comments about flexibility are at odds with my bike fitter. His belief is once I become more flexible the lower my position can become.

Where are you experiencing discomfort when low? It isn't impossible that flexibility is limiting you, but contrary to poplar belief it is rare.

Rather the problem is usually postural. How you apply force and what muscles you bring into play. It may feel very weird when you "get it".

5-10mm is not very much. You should aim for lower than that. (get rid of that 'unicorn' stem for starters!)

(and as others said, doubtful that hamstring flexibility is your limiter)

I agree that 10mm is nothing. More like 50mm+. Of course you wouldn't want to make any big changes with a race coming up.

I rode mine today and paid attention to muscle tension and such. I don't think hamstring flexibility has anything to do with it. Or any flexibility for that matter.

To answer this specific question, if your Quarq is SRAM based (and not one of the new Shimano ones) then yes, you can change the crank arms. I bought a Force 22 set off of t'ebay and swapped the arms at the spider interface. You can do this with any SRAM chainset that has removable spider I think, the interface is the same. PM me if you want instructions for this, I have the dealer guide document from Quarq which I can email, it is pretty easy if you have the right tools. I didn't actually bother even swapping out the chainrings, because you don't need to, but I'm tempted because I have these really nice looking Force 22 rings just sitting there in my drawer vs my knackered old S975 rings..

And in other news, nobody else think this frame is a bit small for him? As in lacking in reach?

Personally, I have horrible lower back and hamstring flexibility. I (and my local Retul fitter) thought this would be a big limiter on how aero I could get. Went to see Jim when I was in LA, and he said it is a total nonissue, put me 5cm further forward and now my position looks like I am a pro and I am riding at least 1mph faster on the same power, and I'm at least as comfortable as before. I was blown away.

Is that a negative degree stem? I'm pretty sure I'm on the wrong frame, with a -17* stem I'm still too high...probably going to try a neg degree stem and see how that works.

Also, too compact. New narrative seems to be a little more stretched out...

Position looks good!

Brent

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DFRU - Detta Family Racing Unit...the kids like it and we all get out and after it...gotta keep the fam involved!

Yes, I'm not sure what it is, maybe a -35. You can get them cheap.

Lots of drop plus stretching out a little seems to help pull the shoulders in, and make turtling more natural.

Well that sounds like win/win! Thanks!

Brent

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DFRU - Detta Family Racing Unit...the kids like it and we all get out and after it...gotta keep the fam involved!

Good news. My Quarq is SRAM. I have the Riken. Would 165mm crank arms be a good choice?

My frame is 58cm. If anything, I thought the frame was somewhat on the large size for me.

That was what I was told by my Retul fitter too. Who is Jim in LA - not that it matters since I live in Colorado?