How about this? That's what I use. Good prices on the CX-Ray as well.

I think you'd be better off with the Kinlin XC279 (which BHS also sells)... because it is wide. Don't bother with CX-Rays if you are just going to cover it.

Kinlin XC-279, H Plus Son Archetype, Pacenti SL23, and HED Belgium + are all nice, strong, and have the new wider profile. I've had all 4 rims and think they all built into really nice wheels.

Make sure it's laced 2x/2x or 3x/3x. Do not lace the NDS radially.

Bob

Sure. Zipp Firecrest comes to mind immediately.


Agree with going with one of the newer wide rims if you use 23mm tires (better for aero). Also, using a deeper rim will allow you to use tape on your disc cover if you so desire.

They make a 32-spoke Firecrest rim? Is that a tandem rim?

there are no 32 hole options for Zipp.

ah, durr. Sorry.

Any thoughts on a Hed belgium 23 vs 25? I have a Quintana Roo lucero lite from 2009. I like the idea that the 25 is more comfortable and wider but wonder about any problems. Is the Kinlin as comfortable? I also like that it is cheaper since a wheelcover is going on it.

You could get a Flo 30 rim, thats what I'd do. Otherwise, pacenti/hplusson/hed

OK, thanks, there were some old threads that I may have miss read or someone miss replied about them being compatable. I think I will go with that option.

Ah I'm only now seeing this thread is from 2013. Yeah I think the deeper FLO rims are incompatible because of the off center spoke holes of the fairing and the flange height of the powertap hub but I also think some folks have had success there. Having said that, the deeper rims are not 32 holed so its a moot point. The FLO 30 rims do come in 32 spokes and I think usually are in stock even when the deeper wheels sell out quickly, but you may want to check that for yourself on their site.

The 30 is a normal alloy rim, for all intents and purposes (measure ERD, plug into spocalc, order your parts and off you go!). Just the kind that works great on a powertap. :)

---

The question of who is right and who is wrong has seemed to me always too small to be worth a moment's thought, while the question of what is right and what is wrong has seemed all-important.

-Albert J. Nock

I had similar thoughts and came across these: http://www.light-bicycle.com/...8mm-bike.html#%23%23

They suggest they do them up to 36h but I am sceptical and haven't checked as I decided not to bother in the end.

Iain

---

Training Full Time in 2015: http://www.triopensource.com
http://www.facebook.com/iaingillamracing http://www.twitter.com/iaingillam
https://www.youtube.com/...9JYCrOLP34Qtgp5w1WsA

I like the idea that the 25 is more comfortable and wider but wonder about any problems. Is the Kinlin as comfortable? I also like that it is cheaper since a wheelcover is going on it.

There is no comfort advantage to wider rims. None. It very well may go in the other direction, actually. Don't believe the hype. The wider rim should be better for aero though.

Unless you are wanting to go tubeless, I'd recommend the XC279.

http://www.ebay.com/...e=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

32 spokes; check

wide rim; check

deep rim; check

I'm thinking of doing this myself, this winter with my 32 spoke PT. You can also use a 24 spoke rim with 16 spokes, 3 across on the drive side and 8 spokes 2 across on the non-drive side, but that would be too complicated for me to do myself.

---

---------------------------
''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law

I rebuilt my 32h powertap wheel with a HED Belgium C2 rim and cx-rays. Been bomber for the last 2 years - pleased with the results.

i rebuilt my 32h powertap pro+ this past winter with this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/one-pc-80mm-carbon-fiber-racing-bike-rim-aluminum-brake-surface-700C-23mm-width-/251893348441?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa6037859


i used cx-rays and brass nipples. rim was just about perfect from the factory, so the build came
out pretty good, even for my first wheel-build. the rim has a tiny vertical hump that i couldn't get
out, but after riding it for almost 1500 miles i haven't noticed it yet.

if you do the build yourself, you'll need a nipple driver to get the nipple positioned and lightly tighten,
i bent an old spoke and used an old nipple for a 'seat'. i did not use a spoke tensiometer; all my
favourite LBS wheelbuilders said they don't use 'em, so i tuned for even tension by ear and feel.


the powertap hub was originally bought as a factory build with the typical open pro rim, heavy and
bomb-proof, but not at all aero. the new wheel feels very fast (faster for the same watts)and i will
probably build/buy one of their 23mm-wide rims to build a front wheel(probably 50 or 60mm).


i chose the 23mm width because the two frames i have are old enough that i did not want to chance
having a wheel/tire combo that did not fit(2008 QR Caliente and 2006(8) cervelo p2-sl)
if i ever get a newer frame(p5 or plasma 5) i will consider a 25mm wide rim.


i have a pair of Flashpoint FP-60s which i could not use(18f & 24 rear - i refuse to do crows-foot
lacing, the regular lacing was annoying enough as it is)

---

---

"...I try not to ever ride as slow as 20mph. ;) ... And even more than that, I don't race with a speedometer. My computer is set up to show Power // Cadence // Time. I don't actually ever know how fast I'm going. I only know that if I'm in 53/11, and it takes more than 100rpm to hit my target watts, it's time to coast." - Jordan Rapp on '09 IMC

I think you can send it to HED and get a Jet(c2+ rim) built on it.

I did the same thing this winter - except I used a FLO 30 Rim, Sapim race double butted spokes, and used a tensiometer to make sure the spokes were not over or under tensioned. I'm glad FLO has made their FLO 30 rims available for only $80.

Mike

i rebuilt my 32h powertap pro+ this past winter with this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/one-pc-80mm-carbon-fiber-racing-bike-rim-aluminum-brake-surface-700C-23mm-width-/251893348441?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa6037859

I'm curious about that rim. Is it a fairing like Flo, Hed Jet, and Swiss Side, or is it structural like the Flashpoints?

Also the shape. Is it 23mm at the brake tracks? Does it get any wider than that?

BTW, you could have laced your 24h Flashpoint rim triplet. Not ideal but possible. And your LBS guys are hacks if they don't use a tensiometer. You can get fairly even tension by ear and feel, but you still won't know what the tension is.

There is a comfort advantage if a wider rim allows you to run a wider tire at lower pressure and not take an aero hit.

Running a 21mm tire at 120psi is less comfortable than a 27mm tire at 90psi. That one I think I could pick out blindfolded.

---

/kj

http://kjmcawesome.tumblr.com/

The hype claims that comfort is better even with the same tire. It isn't.

And you *are* taking an aero hit with a wide tire. It's only a question of whether the tradeoff (in comfort, cornering, and lower Crr) is worth it. Often it is.

rruff,

totally agreed with you on actually knowing what the tension is, but i have a problem buying a tool i'll only use once or twice(i'm cheap and i want quality tools.)
i've been trolling ebay for one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/...e=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

but $255 isn't in my budget right now. i'm not sure i'd trust the cheap $65 Park one, but it's probably better than just winging it.
i also have been waiting for a wheelsmith tensiometer, but i haven't seen one available in the months before all the parts arrived.

as for the construction of the rim, the fairing is structural and the spoke-bed seems pretty strong. the exterior surface is smooth and free of imperfections;
the carbon layup looks consistent with no obvious flaws, folds or anything weird. the bond joint is clean and smooth too.
the alloy tire-bed/braking surface seems a little softer than the alloy used on my flashpoints(there are one or two tiny dents), but not so soft as to worry about it.

the sides are pretty straight and the 'head' edge is u-shaped. here's what they sent me:



i bought Shraners book and downloaded another wheel-building guide, and it seemed like it went ok for a first-ever build.
i had felt/strummed/listened to a wheel built by one of my LBSs that was supposed to be at 150 and built to slightly less than that(real precise i know.)

i was not comfortable enough to consider triplet/crows-foot going from 32 to 24, so that's why i ordered the 32h drilling.

---

---

"...I try not to ever ride as slow as 20mph. ;) ... And even more than that, I don't race with a speedometer. My computer is set up to show Power // Cadence // Time. I don't actually ever know how fast I'm going. I only know that if I'm in 53/11, and it takes more than 100rpm to hit my target watts, it's time to coast." - Jordan Rapp on '09 IMC

Thanks for the info. Is there really that big of a lip where the aluminum transitions to carbon? Shape looks like it should be decent for aero. I think the best oval rims tend to bulge out a little farther from the tire before they taper.

I agree that *you* don't need to buy a tensiometer to build one set of wheels, but someone who is in the habit of doing this for money should certainly have one!