I am using the BBright version, which I assume is the same principle.

I like it and think it solves the problem of PF shells 'walking out' of the frame.

The only pain is that the BB wrench tool you need is of a larger-than-normal size (not a standard Shimano Hollowtech or Mega-EXO diameter), so you likely don't have it in your tool box, and may have a more difficult time sourcing it. None of my LBSs carried the wrench, so I had to do a special order.

I have one in my Venge...it has helped reduce the creaking, but did not eliminate it.

And beston is spot-on re: the wrench needed to install it. And the shop will need two, one for each side.

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Wheels manuf. is good i like Enduro TorqTite and yes you need a special wrench.
http://www.endurobearingsonline.com/collections/xd-15/products/enduro-torqtite-bb-386evo-xd-15-bearings
Have them on my MTB and you can service the bearings

The Wheels Mfg. bottom brakes do work well- a bit heavy, but they work well.
I have also had good luck with Kogel and Parlee bottom brackets.
They are both Press In- but they have aluminum cups instead of plastic.

My experience with the Wheels Manufacturing threaded PF30 wasn't great. Mine went in the frame with finger pressure. When I contacted WMF about the issue they basically told me to FO and that their products were of the tightest specifications. They said it was my frame manufacturers problem and to take it to LBS. The message wasn't as much an issue as the tone. I'm not used to getting really shitty attitude from any bike product companies.

I later measured the WMF BB at 45.75mm. It's harder to measure the frame BB shell, but mine was right at 46mm. I ended up using a Chris King PF30 BB. It measured 45.95mm. So much for the tight specs on WMF BB's.

I haven't put any miles on the new CK BB yet so the jury is still out. I had initially avoided this BB because the bearings are proprietary and they use plastic reducers for matching the bearing inner race to the crank spindle. Now I figure if I can keep a bottom bracket in place long term without creaking the bearing maintenance or replacement is secondary. I also saw somewhere where the reducers in the CK bearings may reduce creaking. From the anodizing wear on my crank spindle there is definitely some movement happening at the spindle and bearing race interface.

PF30 has been pretty frustrating from the creaking and bearing longevity standpoint. The SRAM plastic shell BBs measure a little oversized. This may be to tighten things up in Frame BB shells that vary. I've had a couple bikes where these plastic cup BBs worked initially and then started creaking badly. Very frustrating.

I have used a Kogel in another bike. Their PF30 measured well oversized. Beyond SRAMs plastic cups. But their bearings spin very smooth. I used it in another frame that was had a BB shell that was slightly oversized.

The Praxis colllet style BB with a combo of one side expanding in the shell plus side to side clamping could be the answer for many. The downside is that they only support 24mm spindles, if you are invested in 30mm cranks or crank powermeters they don't have a standard 30mm option (they have one for their cranks only).

I have been running the BB30 threaded BB w/ angular contact bearings from WM for almost 2 years on my road bike, and I have nothing but good things to say. Installation is pretty straight forward, and despite lots of miles, of rain and grit during the winter months, it is still utterly silent. I pulled my cranks last month and it was still clean and smooth as can be. I'll never go back to a standard BB30, and it will replace the BB30 on my tri bike once it starts to creak or wear out. It definitely gets my recommendation to anyone wanting some BB peace of mind.

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dom@mybikeshop.com

Somewhat unrelated sidenote, but the concept of the threaded BB30 WM BB reminds me of the old Mavic sealed bearing BB. Slid through the BB shell and then used threaded "shoulders" to hold it tight in the frame. Great design and rock solid BB....still have on in (very infrequent) use. Only downside to it was that you had to chamfer to BB shell to get the shoulders to snug up tight.

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Chicago Cubs - 2016 WORLD SERIES Champions!!!!

"If ever the time should come, when vain and aspiring men shall possess the highest seats in government, our country will stand in need of its experienced patriots to prevent its ruin." - Samuel Adams

Put just over 10000 miles on mine since last winter. Been flawless.

I've got a new Cervelo S3 that started creaking straight away. It's still an issue but I've got a warranty claim on my rotor 3d30 crank. The DS bearing interface of the spindle has started to show wear and pitting. The thought is that the crank axle from rotor is actually slightly bent. We shall see. Regardless, if the LBS doesn't replace the bottom bracket I plan to fit a wheels mfg threaded unit into it.

Did anyone Loctite the cups to the frame as you would with a regular pressfit, or did they just thread the two halves together?

If you read the installation manual they state that loctite voids the warranty. Suitable grease, for your BB material type, only.

I'm a man. I don't read instructions. I just assemble, warranties be damned!!

Not helping here with the following, I know, but PF BBs have got to go.


I understand people bought press fit BBs because they're almost all that's available these days, but these Rube Goldberg solutions are ridiculous to me. Hollowtech II-type threaded external BBs officially solved BB issues many years ago: simple install with a $15 tool, creakprook operation, standardized dimensions, terrific reliability, easy to source and cheap to replace. Still, here we are a decade later with special order parts, sleeves that poorly duplicate what threaded already is, special tools, pro install required silliness.

This is absurd in one of the simplest components in a bike. It's a bearing mounted in a shell, this isn't rocket science. It's also solely driven by manufacturers seeking to reduce costs by a few dollars with NO tangible benefits for consumers.

Solution: refuse to buy any bike that isn't BSA.

Why would you use loctite ? on any BB ,then it is wrong
i never Loctite PF

What kind of bike are you riding

Amen to that. Coming to the sport after a hiatus, I found the change a real shock. They replaced a system that worked with something that is expensive, requires constant maintenance, and frequently fails.

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I have the screw thread version in my KHS Flite 900. PF BB30, with angular bearings. I've been riding them virtually every day for about 5 months and they seem perfect as far as I can tell.
I had trouble at first as the local importer didn't sell the tool to screw them together. They aren't compatible with Shimano BB tool. We did eventually find out they are (I think) SRAM BB tool compatible). I bought the Park Tool BB tool that has Shimano and SRAM style and they were a breeze to install.
I do most of my own wrenching and after taking several hours to get the standard plastic PF BB thingy out, I swore another one would NOT be going in. The Wheels Mfg went in fine and I've had no need to remove it yet.
What I don't know is, when I do need to remove it, can I use a Park Tool BB30 removal tool to remove the bearings, but leaving the cups, and just replace the bearings, or do I need to replace the whole module? Id prefer to just remove the bearings with the Park Tool, tool, and press new standard BB30 bearings into place.
Whenever I install just about anything on a bike, I use 5 times as much grease as needed, to A) stop salt and road grime getting in, and B) to facilitate future removal. Hopefully that also stops any potential squeaking, as well as meaning replacing bearings will be easy, and not involve my neighbours not learning new words!

On my really old steel KHS, I removed the sealed Shimano BB after 7 years of service. Once I got it out, I checked it and there was no measurable wear compared to the new one straight out of the box. I put the new one in anyway. I took the old one and put it in an even older bike and it's been working in there for 8 years, but it gets very little use.

I mention the above, because when I needed to replace my PFBB30 bearings the first time (after just 18 months!) they bike store guy said for road bikes, 12 months is standard life span and only 6 months in MTB's. WHAT THE *#%^!!!!! That is insane. Are they made out of chocolate or something? Hell, even a chain will last longer than that and chains are exposed to all sorts of crud. I don't consider a bearing that only lasts 6-12 months to be fit for purpose. Clearly that's designed obsolescence gone mad. Insane. I only hope my Wheels Mfg ones last longer than that.

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TriDork

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Never used loctite. You press in one side, and then the other side threads into the side that was pressed in.

Pretty simple.

Loctite is used between the frame and cup interface


http://bbright.net/...Fit-Instructions.pdf

I think you missed the highlighted yellow parts.

I'm using the wheels threaded bottom bracket on 4 bikes. Cervelo S2, Cervelo P5, Cervelo P3, and Ridley X-Fire. ALL WORK FLAWLESSLY. A true professional (me) installed them. I wouldn't hesitate for a second. Not a single creak from any of my installs. Just need to grease up the shell.

Albeit I do prefer a good old fashioned BSA any day of the week.

On my Shiv I probably have... 5,000 creak free miles on a Praxis collet-style BB. Personally I have no issues with 24mm spindles. 30mm is "better" in theory but only world-class sprinters "need" them.

All of wheels Bb's now say loctite voids warranty. This includes the press fit ones too. I really question this. Grease helps things slide. Is that really what you want for a Pf bb?
I would want no movement between cups and frame. Their guidance is different than every other bb manufacturer..