not sure of their lifespan (I would suspect many, many k miles) but I bought one similar to yours on ST last year. Other than a recent battery replacement, works like a charm.

Powertap do not have to be sent back for batery change correct?

The only system I know of that requires being sent back is an SRM.

Battery changes in a G3 hub are pretty much painless. Unless, of course, removing a wheel from a bike is a traumatizing experience. :P

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The question of who is right and who is wrong has seemed to me always too small to be worth a moment's thought, while the question of what is right and what is wrong has seemed all-important.

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No they do not have to be sent back for battery changes and it's pretty straightforward to do.

Make sure the spoke count on the hub and wheel you intend to use align or it can get messy. I've had mine for this season and I absolutely love it to death.

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"Train so you have no regrets @ the finish line"

I have a 3 year old SL+ with close to 6000 miles on it and I've only ever had to replace the battery a few times. I also have a G3 that's not as old but has the same number of miles and again, I change the battery when it dies.

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Rodney
TrainingPeaks | Altra Running | RAD Roller
http://www.goinglong.ca

I have a 2010 powertap pro+ with at least 20,000miles on it and still going strong. Battery changes are easy.

Slightly off-topic, but does anyone see the torque value on calibration start to get out of whack as the battery gets low? Mine starts off around the 512 mark but within a couple months is down to say 505. As soon as I change the battery it magically goes back up to 512ish. Is this normal?

I've got I believe a 2010 or 2011 Pro. It had the old axel. Was upgraded to 15mm. Then another trip down to upgrade to G3.

Lots of miles on mine and it's NEVER missed a beat....ever. It's amazingly reliable. Now I'm buying a new one just cause.

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24 Hour World TT Champs-American record holder
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Normal:)

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Rodney
TrainingPeaks | Altra Running | RAD Roller
http://www.goinglong.ca

You are good. They last. Years ago when they were more expensive they were less reliable. I own a shop and we have sold 30-40 over the last couple years with zero serious issues.

When you change the battery don't over tighten the cap.

I got one on a HED C2+ rim, with tubeless a 24 turbo tire, it's sweet.

Sounds like a bug to me although sometimes mine does that :(

Yes. The calibration getting funky is definitely indicative of the battery getting low.

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Pete Githens
Reading, PA

Be sure to download the Cyleops software and update the firmware. You will need a micro usb cable. It is easy to do and can be done when you change the battery.

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Pete Githens
Reading, PA

I finally killed an Elite+ after five years and probably around 20,000 or so miles. For around $400 Powertap replaced my old hub with a new G3 one. My Pro+ is going strong in my race wheels. Those don't see much use and are around 5 years old.

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Thanks for the replies guys. I think I will pull the trigger on the used one. cshowe80...this particular hub comes already in a wheelset.

Also looking at a used PT. Is there a good guide out there to the different models/generations and the differences?

From what I'm gathering from this thread - five years is about the expected life with moderate to heavy use?

My powertap just died but it was really old with at least 20k miles on it. The things are bomb proof. I was debating sending it back to have G3 internals installed, but the wheel is so old at this point I'm not sure it's worth it...

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That is low miles so it should be fine. And PowerTap has great customer support if you need any service on it.

Powertap has a trade in campaign going on right now, you may want to check it out since your old one crapped out on you

http://www.powertap.com/...-in-your-power-meter

Curious about the carbon rims they are using, AMP. Anybody have them or ridden them? Thoughts? Thought I read someplace on the innerwebs a while back that AMP produced Reynolds rims and I can't confirm this. Thinking about trading my Elite+ in for an upgrade to the 35/50 combo. Thanks.

I have two powertaps; both purchased used, both SL, both still rocking with only battery changes. Bombproof.

Well, not exactly. I have an SL+ that has been rebuilt/fixed 3 time and now has G3 innards.

The first time I got it upgraded to ANT+ to talk to my Garmin.

A few years later, the electronics died. It cost $200 to repair, but that included updating to 15mm axle.

Then electronics died again after about 3 years, so I sent it to Wheelbuilder.com. They are the only other authorized repair place. I went ahead and had it built into a new rim and updated/fixed with G3 internals. The G3 parts are supposed to be more reliable, but electronics can now be replaced by the user and doesn't require to send it in.

I hope my electronics quit failing though.