First of all, thanks for taking the time to answer.


Secondly, I am sorry, you can disregard the second swimming example (I will delete it if i can), I remembered that i had the V800 tied on my goggles, so i could get a proper GPS recording. This explains the cadence absense.

I run the latest latest firmware and software versions (I am a computer guy, so I am pretty confident on that).

To start a swimming session, I wait outside of the water for the "OK" from the GPS and the HR to appear (from bluetooth I suppose). If I wait submerged for them, I never get a HR reading and the OK from the GPS comes and goes as I move my hands to stay afloat. It seems that my V800 cannot revert to the gymlink protocol automatically if it loses the BT signal.

I have noticed too that in some situations (like when i delete the HRM pairing) the HR reading appears dimmed. I also think that the dimmed HR display represents the gymlink protocol. But this reading seems to never appear when an activity is selected (with the middle button) but only after the start.

Today i downloaded the polar beat app on my phone (for the first time) and after pairing the HRM I got a choice to activate the gymlink protocol. I have not seen that choice on the flow web site.

I hope I am making sense, as English is not my mother tongue.

How do you start a swimming session?

Sounds like you need to verify that the HR is working with Gymlink, if you unpair the BT side, do you still get HR. It may be an issue with the H7 or the V800.

Finally figure out how to add the image.

I found there is no route guidance function while gps is swtiched to medium accuracy or power save modes. Only high accuracy gps mode supports route guidance function. Always worry battery will not last that long while doing whole day trekking. Is there any good solution?

Maybe it has to do with the water, as I swim in the sea and you in the lake. Polar's resources say that HR may show inaccurate in salty water οr in pools with too much chlorine because the conductance increases.

By the way, what an incredible performance!

Today I noticed that on the IOS Flow App I don't get the HR graph on Running exercises nor can I interact with the map when I zoom on it. Those two features work fine on Cycling exercises.

Here's a photo.

Does anyone know how to fix this?

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http://www.verynooty.com

Hi,
I had a similar problem: tried 3 different h7 straps and transmitters with no luck. While swimming, my hr was steady at 119. I found a working solution though: in spite of what polar website states, the t31c transmitter works just fine with the v800 in swimming mode. All you need to do is to buy one: v800 picks it up with no need of pairing and the t31c is way better than any h7/h10 underwater. Its slim profile allows it to stay in place, no matter how hard you push out of a turn, and the signal never drops (at least it hasn't in the 6 months I have been using it).

Enjoy your swim: preferably freestyle, as I still have a breaststroke that looks like backstroke, at least according to the v800 :)

I hope that polar will put some effort in fixing this issue: there are way too many swimmers facing this problem to simply think it is acceptable.

Just in case someone from polar is reading: the problem I'm concerned is the strap/transmitter used underwater and the 119 bam constant reading.

The style recognition will eventually be fixed: it takes just one company to get it right that all the others will follow. ;)

A power bank? :)

119 was the reading that my v800 would default to while using the H7 swimming as well. Wayne from Polar advised me the same thing as you said to use the T31, he even mailed me a T31. This cleared up my issues.

The downside of the T31 is that it does not have a user changeable battery. Once my T31 stopped working, I figured that it must be the battery. I ordered another T31 online figuring that a new strap would be easier than the battery replacement through Polar. The new strap never worked?!?! I don't know how long it sat as inventory with the online vendor. Maybe it arrived with a dead battery. Whatever the cause it never worked.

I think that swimming with the H10 may be promising, but I have not tried it yet.

The t31 comes in two flavors:
-T31
-T31c where c stands for coded.
The two are not interchangeable as every old user of polar products knows.
Did you check which version did you get? The v800 is compatible with the coded version.

Please let us know how the h10 works. I have seen a few website showing great graphs, but that was true for the h7 too.

I'm glad that Wayne was able to address your problem: the people I spoke to at polar had no clue about the issue , let alone how to solve it.

I found my email receipt and it was a T31c. It never worked. I suspect it had a dead battery since it would not work with a friend's analog Polar heart rate watch either. Since it was an eBay store I have no idea how long it sat in inventory?? I should have pursued a refund but I was too lazy and did not get around it.

Hi
I would suggest plugging your watch into your computer and with Flowsync perform a factory reset. I would also suggest removing the battery from you H7 for a few minutes and let it essentially reboot. Just a swimming fyi and for other sports, you can put on your transmitter in a normal way but spin it around so the battery pack is on your spine, it will still transmit. We found for some sports with unique mechanics like the butterfly, America's Cup grinders, etc, a gap could form between the strap and body. I am sure in your case you are wearing a tri top and under a wetsuit, so the H7 is making contact throughout your stroke. Try the back trick.

Oddly enough, I managed to make the H7 work for open water swimming by putting in a new CR2032 battery which is slightly thicker but it fits with a little more push and by tightening the belt more. I dont know which of the two made the difference, it just worked for me. I completed a sprint this sunday and it worked as expected.

Hi
I would not encourage this and suggest the CR2025 battery. I think most H7 issues could be resolved by removing the battery for a few minutes and possibly a new battery. Open water in fresh water versus chlorine and salt water impact the signal. I would love to hear some feedback on wearing it on the back versus the chest from you ST'ers

is there a app to measure heart rate transmitter health and strength?. How often should or many hours would I need to change battery?

The Polar Beat training app will provide an general bar graph of the battery. As for battery life, here are some details from the manual

Battery type CR 2025 Battery sealing ring O-ring 20.0 x 1.0 Material FPM Battery lifetime 200 h Operating temperature 14 °F to 122 °F/ -10 °C to +50 °C

My V800 recently will no longer connect to my iPhone without me unpairing and repairing it each time. After repairing, it syncs, but will not connect again without unpairing and repairing again. Is anyone else having this issue? Have the latest iOS installed. Thanks.

Does anyone know if the V800 has a lower limit for water temperature readings. Most of my swims are below 15 degrees, and I get no useful info from the watch. Thanks!

My V800 syncs fine with the newest iOS (11.0.3). Tried deleting / reinstalling the app?

Manual states -10C or 14 F

I would suggest plugging the watch in and with Flosync, perform a factory reset or as mentioned, delete the app and install it again.

Thanks, I tried all of that several times and am having the same issue. It’s an iPhone 8 Plus if that provides any more information. It will pair and then syncs, but will not reconnect a second time without unpairing and repairing.

I would delete the FLOW,app, power down the phone and install the app again. Their could be a glitch in the system.

Similar problems being reported with Garmin devices. Looks more likely to be an iOS problem than the device.

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Trust me I’m a doctor!
Well, I have a PhD :-)

Hello Wayne,
It took me some time but eventually I did follow your instructions.
- reset of the watch (ignoring I would erase my sport personalizations)
- removal of battery on h7 for w minutes
- swim with the h7on the back

What I didn’t do:
- I used a simple rush guard shirt. No swimsuit or else (I am not a triathlete. To this point: I swim drills and different styles, not only freestyle)

Result: it did not work. In one of the sessions, once in a while, on a random basis, and while resting at the wall, the reading seemed accurate. Review of the file post exercise shows a few peaks that are reasonably correct, for a few seconds interspersed in the flat 119 bpm constant reading).

I also tried to place the h7 under my left armpit to place it closer to the watch: no success.

As I have 2 h7 I will try with the other unit too. I don’t have any confidence it will work, but it is worth a try.

Please let me know what else I can try. I’m really frustrated: I have the supposedly best product for swimming and it works so poorly (currently I am not in the mood to discuss stroke recognition, stroke count and timing).