Used an Astro 1442 Tool and everyday M5 rivnuts. You can get them off of Amazon.com.

Measured (use 64mm b/w rivnuts as you can use I believe any boss secured bento then if you change your mind on which bento you want), pilot hole, little bigger bit, 1/4 and insert rivnut. Clamped rivnut, unscrewed and good to go. Pretty simple. Took like 15 minutes.

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Formerly TriBrad02

No clue on what pressure is on each side of the curve but those nuts aren't going anywhere if that helps. I would say to the best you can to be sure the rivnut tool is straight up and down and not canted to either side to help alleviate that worry.

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Formerly TriBrad02

Nice one, really good to see this has been done on a P3C, gives me a bit more confidence.

I used about 8 brand new drill bits in tiny little increments when I did the holes for the shifter cable..! Take on board the point about aligning the rivnut tool vertically, good advice.

Thanks, is there any type of standard spacing between the top tube rivnuts? Or do the bento boxes have some leeway that allows for different spacing?

Torhans has some leeway. 64mm between rivnuts center to center is what I have found with Xlab and Torhans. I do not own a DSW one...yet. I suggest use the #2 & #4 hole from the stem on the Torhans if you use it(they have 4 separate holes) just in case you change to a different bento and need spacing up front for the cables.

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Formerly TriBrad02

Not quite finished product because I still want to install the bosses for a Torhans. I used a modified version of the Cody Beals method. I started with those Jagwire 5mm end stops and took the nose out of a Jagwire 4mm nosed ferrule.



So where Cody had to machine down the OD of the nosed ferrule to fit it inside the end stop, I just pushed the nose through the hole in the bottom and it holds in place nicely. I tried drilling out the ID of one of the stops but it was a disaster! I then cut maybe a 120mm length of 2mm ID PTFE tubing, just enough to clear the bend. I pushed this over the nose and superglued it into place. I'm not totally sure how good that bond is, I'll check it from time to time.

So my shifter cables don't fit nicely into the cable stop as it would do with Cody's method using the 4mm ferrules, but I put a cap on the end and it seems absolutely fine. It doesn't budge under shifting.

And then cabled it up. As ever, hardest bit is getting the bloody inner cables out of the frame at the other end.

As you can see, not much for the wind to be interested in..!









Cheers, Rich.

Nice work, looks great!

I recently sold my P2, nearly two years after doing the cable mod. I kept checking the cable guides, expecting that the PTFE tubing would wear out or the bond with the ferrule would fail. But they held up fine.

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Which frame is this? Or do you have a side shot. I would like to do this on my Kestrel Airfoil, but after the cable goes in it would actually have to come back forward a bit to curve around the top tube / down tube junction. Not sure how well that would work.

I could also possibly just run cable and housing all the way to the bottom bracket and make a slight mod to my bb cover where the cable comes out. I was thinking with cable housing it would be a smoother pull than just the cable and noodle with the zig-zagging it would have to do.

Nice work! Looks clean.

Want to throw something out to you since you are considering the Torhans bento. No functional issues with mine after a few rides and eyeball aero has it just fine as well but it is not very aesthetically pleasing to the eye having a round top tube mated with a rigid flat bottom bento. I will probably move back to the canvas style bento just so it sits flush all around the top tube.

I say this because if you have the same eye I do for these things then be sure where you drill the bosses you still have room to put on a different bento and not have issues of it being to far forward on the top tube and the cables getting in the way.

I will say I had 3x gu and 6x Shot Blocks in the Torhans on a recent ride and no issues getting them out.

Once again nice mod on your bike!

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Formerly TriBrad02

I'm not sure which frame it is, I had it figured out a while back but now I don't recall.

I thought the same on mine that it would have to come forward, and it did a hair but I filed down the edge inside to smooth it over and I think in the end just used the normal jagwire liner and it was fine. At first I ran a few inches if a thicker wall tubing around the bend with the liner inside that but it was flexing a hair too much and the rear der tension would take up that slack first so I had to remove it.

The angle did cause the cable stops to sit in a manner that they were not entirely flush with the frame. Since this meant that the load was not even I made a little aluminum plate to sit over the holes so that there wasn't excessive pressure on one small spot of the top tube.

Here are pics of the plate, the profile of the bike to get a better idea of how it had to bend and also a shot down the headtube. That final one was actually my initial attempt with the thicker tubing over the jagwire liner but it flexed too much and wouldn't shift right. In the end i just ran the liner and it was fine even pressed against that little rib inside the frame.

Has anyone tried to feed the cables by drilling holes in the front of a soft bag such as DSW or XLab? I really like the idea of totally hidden cables like in the modification to the Torhans aero bento but I just do not find that particular bento box practical. I have drilled holes in the bottom of one of these bags to adjust forward and it wasn't perfectly clean but it did work. But up front with zipper placement may be trickier.

I am thinking about doing the TT rivnut update and then will get a Torhan Bento and remove some of the front section to hide the cables as much as possible.

Have you done this yet? I think I plan to go with Torhans and make small hole like Tririg P2 setup. Seems like a fairly easy cut/ modification on Torhans but didnt know if there were any issues that you ran into.

No I have not done this yet as I am waiting for TriRig to release their new stem so I can just do everything at one time so the bike has been sitting in the garage 90% complete. I should probably to this part shortly and then wait.

That is what I plan to do as well.

I just do not want to cable everything up and then have to make changes on cuts to the bento box which I will modify to hide the cables, what the perfect length going through the stem and just want to do everything one time.

Won't matter to you Cody since you are on that new beast now, but I thought I would update my post for anybody who refers back to this page.

I replaced my cables with the new segmented Jagwire Elite Link stuff recently, and it simplified the top tube mod. Instead of having to piss about using the nosed ferrule and then bonding the PTFE tubing on the other side of the cable stop, I simply allowed an extra length of liner in the Jagwire system. You can cut the liner independently in that system and have it extend out beyond the end of the segmented outer housing. So I just allowed an extra 120mm or so of liner. Only thing I had to do to accommodate that was drill out the hole slightly in the bottom of the 5mm end stop to allow the liner to pass through, which was really easy in a bench vice.

End results look smart, I reckon.

Resurrecting this thread to ask if anyone has experienced any problems after performing this mod.
I'm about to do this to my P2 and want to know what the long term results have been from others.

No problems at all and if I was smart I would just have gone with Etap and not drilling but none the less, zero issues.

BMANX, did you ever post your final result? I'm always a fan of your builds and I'd like to see how yours turned out.

The bike is currently on trainer duty in the basement and with FLO30's. When I get it ready for the net race I will post some pictures and I hope it will be sunny. I think it was down to about 14.75lbs in race set-up. The SLC is currently sitting at 12.95lbs and I am thinking of either selling the English or converting that to 1x10 as well.

Why bother... etap.

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2020 National Masters Champion - M40-44 - 400m IM
Canadian Record Holder 35-39M & 40-44M - 200 m Butterfly (LCM)

Are you serious? Do I need to explain the economics behind the decision making process here?
Don't be daft.

Mine is the last picture above. I've had no problems at all, and I thoroughly recommend segmented housing because being able to simply extend some extra liner through into the frame makes things a lot easier.

And I hear you guys loud and clear about etap, but that is a lot of money for many peeps. This is a much cheaper way of hiding everything from the wind.

I like the way you've done it, knighty. I was admiring your work before posting.
Glad to here the bikes are holding up.

I got some nylon for my 3d printer and was thinking of adding a cable cover / port that over the inputs. It would look similar to the shiv tri port behind the stem. This would let me cover the cables and put my bento flush with the back. Then I'd have full use of the bento rather than using it partially as a cable cover.