Are you taking about chain rubbing on the two largest cogs when in the large ring and the two smallest cogs when on the small ring? Or are you getting chain rub on the two smallest cogs when you're in the big ring as well?

You're not going to make it quite with cross chaining… the difference between the largest diameter and smallest diameter is simply too much...

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"Suddenly the thought struck me. My floor is someone elses ceiling"-Nils Ferlin

Not cross-chaining. The outer-limits are what are giving me issues. Small ring, big cog. Big ring, small cog.

If I adjust to over-componsate for the extreme (used in the literal sense) "slapping", the chain drops on the inside/outside of the rings, so that can be ruled out.

Imagine I'm small ring, big cog. Twice per revolution, I get small rubs on the inside of the cage. If I increase the tension on the limit screw, then the chain drops inside the rings (between frame and ring) when shifting from Large ring to small ring.

Clearer?

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Eli Curt

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Clear. Thanks.

I had the same problem with Q-ring. The trick turned out to be a spacer that moved the derailleur slight back and tilted backwards. I believe you can find the spacers on Rotor's website. Another thing that helped was to use a Ultegra 9 speed front derailleur. My Campy Record F/D rubbed, but the 9 speed Ultegra cleared. Guess it makes sense since the 9 speed derailleur had to accommodate a wider chain.

F/D angle and height is super critical, so play a round a bit more with that...

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"Suddenly the thought struck me. My floor is someone elses ceiling"-Nils Ferlin

I did not, this is how my initial solution played out in my head. I was unsure these existed. Could you link them to me? It appears my cage is too small - this would probably work.

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Eli Curt

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I have a spacer that came with the rings and will try moving the cage back a bit. After closer inspection, it appears as if the chain rubs on the thinnest part of the cage, which is towards the back. if I can move the cage back, that may solve the issues. That, or the solution one post above yours.

This is a di2 build, so I'm not sure I would be able to swap out the cage with a 9 speed cage. Has it beed done?

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Eli Curt

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Chimps in Training!

Eli
When I was trying out Osymetrics v QRings, I had the same problem. I built a spacer (before I knew Rotor made them) and still had to file out some the the front D cage. I used a dremel, with a small grinding stone and just took off enough so the teeth would clear the rear junction piece, that sounds like what might be rubbing.

Here's my problem. The "screw" in the back of the FD seems to be more of a pin (see above image).

The seller of the rings did, however, include all hte necessary spacers (4) and screws (2) which i am thankful for!

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Eli Curt

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Keep in mind that shifting is fine. Crisp even. The problem is the little "kiss" each time (twice per revolution) the rings drop the chain off from the large section to the small section.

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Eli Curt

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Chimps in Training!

We have some of the FD spacers at ROTOR and you can use them with those funny rings as well. we have a few options, so may be better to call so we can figure out which would be the best option.

Kervin.

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Kervin

Rotor Bike Components USA
OUR NEW WEBSITE http://www.rotorbikeusa.com

Thanks Kervin.

Did you see the follow up posts? I'm running a Di2 FD - any hope for me? I have the fore/aft spacer, but not the ability to adjust the width of the cage.

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Eli Curt

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Chimps in Training!

I have Di2 with our QXL rings. There may be some hope.

K

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Kervin

Rotor Bike Components USA
OUR NEW WEBSITE http://www.rotorbikeusa.com

Preach brotha, preach! What's the secret??

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Eli Curt

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Chimps in Training!

not that big of a secret really. basically you can purchase one of the below and it should work fine. it is a spacer that pushes the FD back and in a slight downward angle. Of course, we haven't tested it with Osymetric rings, but i don't see why they won't work.

Spacer link: http://www.cart32hostingred.com/...amp;prodid=261653440

let me know if anything else,
Kervin.

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Kervin

Rotor Bike Components USA
OUR NEW WEBSITE http://www.rotorbikeusa.com

Eli I have two spacers on my fd though I am using SRAM red yaw and it is fine.

Have you examined it closely to verify the chain is actually contacting your derailleur? The chain will make a slapping noise when it hits the flat sections of the Osymetric chainrings, and the noise is worse when the chain is pulled to the side, which happens in the small and large cassette cogs.

This may be useful:
http://www.slowtwitch.com/...eur_How-To_3775.html

You are going to lose at least one or two gears with extreme shape rings, no way around it. Even set up 'perfect', my QXLs get rubbing on the 'butt' of the front derailleur when in the small ring and smallest 2-3 cogs. The fix would be to lower the FD, but then it would interfere with the rings at their tallest part. The Rotor angled shims work very well to allow you to dial this in for maximum clearance. If you really want to run non-round rings, I suggest buying all three of the Rotor shims; the investment is not that much. There is so much frame variation out there with FD mounts. I can't tell you the amount of dremeling and hacking that goes on in the pro peloton.

Already read your article, thanks Greg.

I read somewhere that TC suggests pushing the set screw all the way in...I'm going to try that out.

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Eli Curt

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Has anyone considered (who have 10 speed drivetrains) going with a Shimano or similar 11 speed chain instead to help reduce the chances or amount of rubbing? It is slightly narrower and might or might not be enough to make a difference.

I have got my QXL rings setup reasonably well on my Dura Ace 7900 drivetrain but will get rubbing on the outer most extremes of the gear combos. Was wondering if going to an 11 speed chain might have a chance of reducing some of the rubbing. I'd rather wear out chains more than the derailleur with the chain at the same time. The big/big combo is where I'd use it the most in a race or for training runs.

Just a thought more than anything so I don't know if anybody else has tried it or not.

I wouldn't do that. More for the rear shifting than anything.

Yes, definitely slapping the cage.

As a general follow up...I put one of Ted's adjustable chain catchers on, with a 6mm spacer. That moved the derailleur back, but didn't really effect shifting. I brought the limit screw all the way in, figuring the catcher would keep the chain on, but that kind of messed up the shifting to the big ring.

I reset the low limit, and brought the high limit out a bit.

It's still slapping a bit on 42x26/24, but 23-12 is fine. Additionally, I have the full spread on 52, primarily quiet, save for 52x26/24. But no more chain slap in the big ring, which is where I generally race crits. I'll report back in 10 days after my first race.

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Eli Curt

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Ok, I´m just going to steal the thread a bit.

This question may be extremely stupid, so prepare yourself ;)

I race in the junior class in road races. The rules says that I can maximum have 52t at the front and 14t in the back. This combination will give me 7,95 meters. If I run 52t with Osymetric and 14t cassette, will it give me 7,95 meters per evolution?

And also, how "high" is the Osymetric chainring (from the highest part)? Please write how many teethes you have. 52t is preferred :)