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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [GreenPlease] [ In reply to ]
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But to further answer his question, on the issues with BB90 - NO, there isn't a better solution provided to prevent the issues with the bottom bracket shell developing play and not holding the bearings properly.
Their first step in trying to band-aid the issue is to have users use a special oversized bearing to keep things tight, only available from Trek (so one normal bearing choice). This often doesn't work (didn't work for mine), the next step apparently is to send back to trek where they will put a sleeve in to take up some space...

I'm ready to pull the trigger on replacing my gen 1 speed concept, and the bottom bracket issue is the only thing likely keeping me from getting another SC.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [GreenPlease] [ In reply to ]
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GreenPlease wrote:
Good. I really like the GXP standard. The Enduro BB90 GXP bearing kit will basically consist of a drive side bearings with a 24mm internal diameter and a non drive side bearing with a 22mm internal diameter (IIRC). You local bike shop will simply remove your existing bearings and press the new ones into your frame.

Thanks, to get what you suggest would I go here:

http://www.endurobearingsonline.com/products/bb90-ie-trek

...and select "Grade 5" and "GXP"? What is the difference between the steel and grade 5? That's quite a difference in price, does that translate to ~3x the steel bearing life span for the grade 5?

Are all of the these types of bearings fully sealed it can I re-apply my own grease of choice?

Thanks again.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [SBRcanuck] [ In reply to ]
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SBRcanuck wrote:
But to further answer his question, on the issues with BB90 - NO, there isn't a better solution provided to prevent the issues with the bottom bracket shell developing play and not holding the bearings properly.
Their first step in trying to band-aid the issue is to have users use a special oversized bearing to keep things tight, only available from Trek (so one normal bearing choice). This often doesn't work (didn't work for mine), the next step apparently is to send back to trek where they will put a sleeve in to take up some space...

I'm ready to pull the trigger on replacing my gen 1 speed concept, and the bottom bracket issue is the only thing likely keeping me from getting another SC.

Thanks, good to know - I'll keep an eye on it.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [wsrobert] [ In reply to ]
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Hello all,

New to ST but have poked around for a while before making a profile.

I came across this thread and seems to be a lot of good info in here! I have not sorted out all of the pages but are people breaking the rear anchor bolt on the G2 SC that the mono extension is held to?
Last edited by: teddygram: Jan 24, 18 12:25
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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Hi,
Yes, I broke mine 6 times. I eventually spoke to a rep at Trek and we sorted out a replacement cradle. So far, this has worked; I have not broken a bolt in about 3 months. I went through my local Trek dealer but eventually was able to speak directly to a rep at Trek who was incredibly helpful. Please PM me if you'd like to know more info.
Thanks,
Nicole
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [NinTX] [ In reply to ]
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NinTX wrote:
Hi,
Yes, I broke mine 6 times. I eventually spoke to a rep at Trek and we sorted out a replacement cradle. So far, this has worked; I have not broken a bolt in about 3 months. I went through my local Trek dealer but eventually was able to speak directly to a rep at Trek who was incredibly helpful. Please PM me if you'd like to know more info.
Thanks,
Nicole

Nicole,

Thank you for the response! I had mine break during my last IM and the local trek dealer replaced all the hardware (to my knowledge). I’m just trying to prevent it or educate myself so I ultimately do not get hurt from it. It has been fine but my usage has been limited so far.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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This is completely understandable. Beyond the obvious, such as torque to spec and replacing the hardware, I am not aware of any other measures to ensure this does not happen again. I was always most concerned about safety as the idea of flying down a hill when a bolt breaks was pretty terrifying to me. I did order an extra couple of sets of bolt kits to replace bolts proactively on a regular basis. If anyone knows of anything new/different, please chime in.
Thanks,
Nicole
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [NinTX] [ In reply to ]
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Why was it breaking?
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [AndrewL] [ In reply to ]
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AndrewL wrote:
Why was it breaking?

I really don't know but during my race luckily it didn't break while I was going downhill. I had hit 40+mph on some of the downhills and it could have been an absolute disaster.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [ In reply to ]
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I was reading this post about setting up Gen 1 SC rear brakes:

http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Speed_Concept_brake_tips_4313.html



...and I came to the part that mentioned installing inline barrel adjusted for the brakes:




I have only ever seen these for shift housing before (< 5 mm?), has anyone here installed an inline adjuster to their Gen 1 SC with regular 5 mm brake housing? If so, which inline barrel adjuster did you get? Can I just install brake housing straight into a shift barrel adjuster if I don't put the end cap ferrules on?


Cheers!
Last edited by: BikedPotato: Jan 24, 18 15:24
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [BikedPotato] [ In reply to ]
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BikedPotato wrote:
I was reading this post about setting up Gen 1 SC rear brakes:

http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Speed_Concept_brake_tips_4313.html



...and I came to the part that mentioned installing inline barrel adjusted for the brakes:




I have only ever seen these for shift housing before (< 5 mm?), has anyone here installed an inline adjuster to their Gen 1 SC with regular 5 mm brake housing? If so, which inline barrel adjuster did you get? Can I just install brake housing straight into a shift barrel adjuster if I don't put the end cap ferrules on?


Cheers!

Jagwire makes adjusters for brake cable housings too: https://jagwire.com/...rts/inline-adjusters

The cleanest option for the SC is using the Bonty Race XXX levers: https://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com/...-levers-160895-1.htm
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [SummitAK] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks!
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [ In reply to ]
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I'm trying to set up my brakes on a 2012 Gen 1 and it's proving a little more tricky than the road brakes I'm used to. How exactly do I get the pads closer to the rim than this? The bike has FSA Vision TT brake levers, which don't have a return spring, which means that pulling the levers in order close such a large gap between the rim and brake block will often result in the lever getting stuck in the pulled position (due to the strange little triangle thing on the brake cable getting stuck between the callipers).

How can I get the brake blocks closer to the rim? I have a few random spacers that I could use, but there isn't much in the way of screw length to account for all that space. Moving the triangle thing up the cable actually makes this whole situation worse since it can then be pulled even further through the callipers and is more likely to get stuck.

Thanks!


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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [ In reply to ]
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Figured it out! More spacers did work after all.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [BikedPotato] [ In reply to ]
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This is covered in the service manual by the way. To make sure you have enough engaged thread, move the spacers from the outside to the inside.

For good rear brake performance:
Get some really good brake cable (Dura Ace is my preferred).
if at all possible, get levers with return springs.
Don’t put any joints or adjusters in the rear brake housing, this just adds loss and friction.
There is an alternative brake wedge that has a faster starting rate so that it closes on the rim from a wider open position.

Developing aero, fit and other fun stuff at Red is Faster
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [SkippyKitten] [ In reply to ]
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With my training wheel being significantly wider than my disc wheel, I got tired of messing about with the rear brake and stuck a barrel adjuster on the cable; life is a lot easier and I can still brake fine. A lot of crap can get into that brake, so it does need servicing regularly - I was horrifed how bad it was when I last did it after neglecting it for a whole season!

29 years and counting
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Bontrager Carbon Bottle Cage [ In reply to ]
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Hi all - I've got the 2014 SC7.5. I have the aerobar mount carbon bottle cage, which was taken off a while back... and I am damned if I can get it back on. I searched out the service manual which shows that the base piece for the cage should fit across the pad bar. Mine doesn't. It sits probably 5-8mm above where it seems it's supposed to bolt into the Y-extension top. Please help! As far as I can tell, nothing has gotten lost which would make it fit. Pics attached.

Also, the bolts that fasten the pad bar to the Y-extension have seized. Any advice?? Thanks in advance.

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Re: Bontrager Carbon Bottle Cage [mongooseman] [ In reply to ]
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Try posting the pictures again.
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Re: Bontrager Carbon Bottle Cage [mongooseman] [ In reply to ]
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mongooseman wrote:
Hi all - I've got the 2014 SC7.5. I have the aerobar mount carbon bottle cage, which was taken off a while back... and I am damned if I can get it back on. I searched out the service manual which shows that the base piece for the cage should fit across the pad bar. Mine doesn't. It sits probably 5-8mm above where it seems it's supposed to bolt into the Y-extension top. Please help! As far as I can tell, nothing has gotten lost which would make it fit. Pics attached.

Also, the bolts that fasten the pad bar to the Y-extension have seized. Any advice?? Thanks in advance.


I have the aerobar cage. The base bar sits on top of the pad mount as you described. There is a gap, but the bolts that hold it down are long enough. After tightening, the bottle cage base bar still never touches the mono extension bar
Last edited by: Grayzweb: Feb 20, 18 18:22
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Re: Bontrager Carbon Bottle Cage [mongooseman] [ In reply to ]
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mongooseman wrote:
Hi all - I've got the 2014 SC7.5. I have the aerobar mount carbon bottle cage, which was taken off a while back... and I am damned if I can get it back on. I searched out the service manual which shows that the base piece for the cage should fit across the pad bar. Mine doesn't. It sits probably 5-8mm above where it seems it's supposed to bolt into the Y-extension top. Please help! As far as I can tell, nothing has gotten lost which would make it fit. Pics attached.

Also, the bolts that fasten the pad bar to the Y-extension have seized. Any advice?? Thanks in advance.

Please verify that during a fit or since the bracket was removed that a spacer or riser was not installed under the arm pad bracket. I see this a lot on SC bikes to get the armrest/bracket higher for a better fit.

Pictures will help also!
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Re: Bontrager Carbon Bottle Cage [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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I agree. Under the elbow pad bridge there is a spacer (looks like a crescent moon) often inserted between the bridge and the aerobar extensions. If you have that spacer then the bottle cage bridge will sit too high. You can remove this spacer but it does drop the elbow pads by 5mm (not really too much of a big deal).
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Re: Bontrager Carbon Bottle Cage [GreenPlease] [ In reply to ]
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Re: Bontrager Carbon Bottle Cage [teddygram] [ In reply to ]
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Can't get the images to post - irritating! Yes, it does look like there's a spacer under there...but as the bolts have seemingly seized, I cannot get the pad bar off.

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Re: Bontrager Carbon Bottle Cage [mongooseman] [ In reply to ]
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Do you have a dremel tool? Could cut a slot to fit a large flat screw driver in to get them loose.
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Re: Bontrager Carbon Bottle Cage [mongooseman] [ In reply to ]
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Be sure to use a lot of penetration lubrication, you can than try to cut a slit/slot in the screw head and use a flat head to try and screw it out.... chances are that is not going to work.

IMO you may want to go ahead and take a drill and drill bit and drill the head off the bolt, after the head has been drilled off on both bolts you should be able to pull the arm pad bar off the assembly exposing the rest of the threads to the bolt. Hit it wit a lot of penetrating lubrication and let it sit for some time. You can at that point take some vise-grips and thread them out.

as always if your uncomfortable doing this your LBS would love the business!
Last edited by: teddygram: Jan 30, 18 10:37
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