I don't think you're dealing with the axle shield...sounds more like a plastic detail pressed into the bearing which takes the place of the old red bearing seals. If the damage is not causing your cranks to feel loose in the bearings then you should be OK...if you start getting noise or they are loose then you'll need to take it to your Trek dealer.

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Carl Matson

Sounds like it's the plastic detail... Was just new to me. Everything seems fine. Thanks mate

Hey,

Concerning a gen 1 (2013), 7 series & 25mm GP4000II x HED Belgium C2+ (wide)
Been having issues with tire sidewall rub on the seat stay., pictures included. Note the clearance on the driveside. Potentially a dish issue? Anything else may be source of problem? 3rd picture is just wear on actual seat stay from (what I'm guessing to be from the tire).

Thanks

Earlier this year my bike was trashed by an airline while I was returning from a race in the UK. The frame is a write off but all the pieces and parts are in great condition (from front forks,seat stem, areobars, crank etc...).

As I am now on a 2015 SC 7.5 my Sandium RXL wheel set is also no longer needed.

If you are in need of anything drop me a note.

-are you sure the wheel is pulled all the way up into the dropouts on both sides? if yes:

-if you flip the wheel over (put it in backwards, cassette to the left) does the tire look like it'll rub on the other side now? if yes, it's a dish thing.

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Carl Matson

Clever. Thanks, that helps a bunch. At least it's a quick fix as opposed to just incompatibility.

As always, thanks for your help.

Hi Carl, I took my current model SC7.5 away this weekend (using a Whispbar WB200 fork mount car rack) and the wind turbulence has ripped the rubber part of my top tube feed box to pieces (I probably should have foreseen this happening). Is the rubber cover with the slit in it available to replace as a standalone part? Also, I asked you a while back about paint falling off my fork...I've since had the NZ rep ask my LBS to do some measurements and apparently a new fork is being painted up to send to me...superb service, so thank you all at Trek. Thanks for your help as always :-)

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howdy!

glad to hear the fork thing is being taken care of.

wish I had better news for you on the speedbox2 lid. it doesn't appear to have a separate part#, and at the moment the boxes are out of stock until roughly mid-Nov...and that's just for domestic purposes...I don't know what may be available in the APAC region. the NZ rep or your LBS may be able to get that info for you.

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Carl Matson

Bummer on the box - lbs is checking as you suggest. As of today the new fork has arrived....and is being fitted tomorrow. Awesome! Is there a larger feed box available? Cheers :)

Dave

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The Bontrager Hilo Speed Box may offer slightly more effective volume (the mesh cover allows you to overstuff it somewhat), but it may be difficult to secure on the SC toptube with the straps since the toptube tapers from front to rear...and the shaping near the headtube may force you to run it much further back than you'd prefer. it's part# 428674

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Carl Matson

Hi Carl, Any issues installing this on a 2014 SC with DA Di2 11sp? My existing BB is the Trek ceramic upgraded version (not Ceramic Speed). Many thanks!

looks like it has a 30mm axle...not compatible. and before anyone else jumps in to say there are adapters out there, here are some thoughts on the undersized bearings which would be necessary to make those "work" in a BB90 frame.

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl - very interesting! When I bought the bike last year, my LBS suggested moving my old Quarq Powermeter SRAM chainset to this bike - however, as I had specced the bike to a no compromise level (Lightweight Wheels, Ceramic Jockeys, DA Di2 etc), I didn't want to 'contaminate' the set up by adding BB adapters to make 'foreign' components fit (bought Garmin Vectors instead). Sounds like you're in agreement and the same rationale should apply here. Looks like I'm just going to have to do more single leg drills :) Thanks again ...

Carl - several questions for you.

First:
I have several paint chips of various sizes in various places on my frame that I'd like to touch up. It's a 2013 G1 Black 9.9 frame - so a mixture of the gloss black, flat/matte black, and a little bit of gray.

All the paint chips are in the areas where it's in the flat/matte black - I was thinking that the best choice to use as a touch up would be the Testors Flat Black Enamel? Any better suggestions - or give it a try and see how it works?

Second:
Last fall I replaced my stem because of some wicked corrosion on it, it appears this corrosion also affected the aluminum section at the top of the fork and has caused some corrosion "bubbling" under the paint in a couple sections (no pictures handy, but I can take some). I'm assuming this wouldn't be covered by the warranty - so I'm wondering what my best bet on fixing it is. After some reading about aluminum and corrosion - it seems like it probably isn't detrimental, but just aesthetic at this point.

I figure my options are:

1. Replace the fork via warranty/purchase/etc.
2. Live with it.
3. Sand off the paint in the affected sections, clean it, apply some metal polish, then prime it and try to paint match it.

Thanks.

Hi Scott-

The Testors paint is a good choice.

As for the corrosion question, option 3 is probably the best combination of low cost and good looks. Don't let that stop you from bringing it to your Trek dealer for a closer inspection, though.

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Carl Matson

Hi Carl,

Thanks for the quick responses on ST. This is a great way to communicate with a manufacturer.

I was trying to slide my mono extension and it seems like the pivot cradle is stuck to the bottom of the mono extension. I disassembled it and still couldn't get it to come off the mono; it almost seems like it's glued on. Any suggestions? It seems it should be easy to slide once the top cradle bolts are loosened. I didn't want to force it before I checked in here.

Thanks for any advice you can offer.

it may be an interference fit between the guide tab on the cradle and the slot in the mono...should be OK to put a flathead screwdriver or similar down through the slot and give the cradle a tap to break it free.

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Carl Matson

Looking this round from the 1x11 thread. Has anyone removed the front mech hanger from a gen 2 7.5? Is it bonded as well as riveted? What is the bonding?

Epoxy plus rivets.

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Carl Matson

Not easy to remove then. Maybe you should start offering a project one option to have it bolted on? :)

Hi Carl - needing to replace aerobar attachment screws (the 4 that clamps base-bar to top of stem) on 2012 SC9. Local dealer struggling via Trek (in UK), do you know the type/size so I can search out elsewhere?
Thanks, Dave

Hi Dave-

assuming the local dealer knows the correct part# for that bolt kit...W308017 ? can't speak to offshore warehouses, but there are lots in stock in the US.

sourcing your own would void the warranty, but if you want to go there you're looking for M4x0.8, 16mm, ISO12.9...and yes, that grade is important.

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl, I'll try another dealer, so far its been like pulling teeth just to get 4 bolts; point taken re; warranty...

:( sorry to hear that. here's hoping it gets better for you.

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Carl Matson

Carl,

I wanted to give a shout out to Trek and specifically to Mark (forget last name) who was in Kona last week. He got me a derailleur hanger and did a once over on my bike.

Trek didn't have a huge tent and a dozens of mechanics like another brand there, but if you needed support, you could find it.

I think I earned the unofficial title of fastest 1st Generation 7 series bike in the world!

Thanks for the help!

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