I have the 2011 SC 7.2 and I hope to upgrade it to 11 speed electronic over the winter. Is there a complete parts list somewhere of what I'll need to buy? I'll likely have to buy it a piece or two at a time.

I don't know what "complete" means to you...but here's a post which at least covers the wire lengths and gives you an idea of the other Shimano parts (FD, RD, etc) you'd need to get...your Trek dealer can help with the rest. The only thing I'd note is that officially the internal battery isn't compatible with that generation of SC seatpost. You may be able to fit it in there, and it may stay there, but that generation bike happened long before the e-tube version of Di2 and the internal battery...so no guarantees. The external version of the e-tube Di2 battery works exactly as the original 7970-series Di2 did...requires the Di2 rear brake cover and mounting kit 422802 from your Trek dealer.

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Carl Matson

That's the Bontrager SC bottle cage, which includes a rail that mounts to the 2014+ SC mono-extension for BTA (between the arms) bottles.

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Carl Matson

Just in case anyone is curious, a Shimano D-Fly located in the seat tube (more specifically, mounted on the lower end of the internal battery) talks to a Garmin on the monoextension on my large SC.

I think I may have done similar damage to my frame today. My bike was in transition on the rack, and the wind picked up and blew a few bikes, including mine, off the racks. Mine landed on the rear derailleur side, and I noticed it was angled inward quite a bit. I assumed the hanger had been bent in. But tonight after taking the hanger off, it looks like the dropout in the frame itself has possibly been bent inward. So that makes a speed concept a write-off? I can't believe it would be designed with a dropout that can bed inwards from a bike falling over sideways, ruining a 5k frame......FML.......

 
I'm afraid it sounds like you're in the same situation as that post you quoted above. Whether or not that one impact was enough, or just added to (unseen?) damage already present, that's not a repairable condition. Aluminum can't be bent back and ridden safely for any significant length of time (i.e. you might get home from an incident out on the road, but that's it). I suggest you contact your Trek dealer about a crash replacement.

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Carl Matson

Kind of a random question but what are the odds I could track down a new old-stock 7 series? Do you have any visibility on that sort of stuff through Trek's inventory system?

I can't see anything different from what dealers see...and in fact they may have more visibility than I do into closeouts, scratch and dent, etc...so you'll probably be better off asking your dealer.

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl. I had a closer look this morning with both the derailleur and the hanger taken off. I'm hoping it was just my eyes playing tricks, I think the aluminum dropout may not be damaged/bent. Wheel slides in fine. When looking at both left and right dropouts from the back, they both -appear- to be angled in slightly, so probably normal. I put the hanger back on, and carefully realigned it as one normally would with a bent hanger, and it seems to have done the trick...have to have a longer look at it tonight after work. Regardless, I went ahead and ordered a replacement hanger from Wheels Mfg to put on it..

Hi Carl,
Hopefully a very easy one to answer here. I am looking for a new set of wheels for my 2014 SC 7.5 and was wondering what the maximum allowed wheel widths are. I'm looking at about 25mm at the break track and 26.5mm maximum width.
Thanks!

our own Aeolus D3 wheels are wider than that and fit fine.

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Carl Matson

Hi guys,
Slightly embarrassed by the simplicity of this question:
I need to replace the rear brake pads for my Trek Speed Concept 7.8 (2012)

I've tried to find the specific bontrager ones to replace with but struggling to find this (in the UK) through Wiggle. Also the pad seems to have the world's smallest allen key to remove it.

Is there a specific type of pad I need or caliper at all? The closest I can see is a 'v-brake' type of caliper, I'm using Wiggle.

I've had a look at the manual and also a slowtwitch post without any luck.

Thanks for any help,
Rob

it's a 1.5mm allen key.

if you're trying to find replacement stock (or carbon-specific) pads they should be readily available through your Trek dealer...easy to order if not actually in stock at the store.

if you're going aftermarket for pads, most road pads with a slot (as opposed to a hole) for the pad retention bolt should work in the SC brake pad carriers...it's the carriers that are proprietary (different offset from the brake arm than most road carriers/cartridges, driven by the need to clear the chainstays on the rear brake).

slotted pad:



not slotted:

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl very much appreciate the quick reply, great as always.

Regards,
Rob

 

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Hey Carl,


2014 SC pictured. Having troubles with my wrists going numb with the pictured S bend aero bars, after 2-4 hours. I think the Ergo bars would be a better feel for me. Any guesses on whether I would need the short or long bars? Can the long bars be cut down if to long?


Thanks,


Les

Hi Les!

Not easy being green ;-)

The overall length of the long ergo mono is almost the same as the S-bend version...so if you've got the pad wing pretty far back and are grabbing the extensions up by the shifter right now, you'll probably need the long ergo. If your pad to shifter distance is ~375mm or less, you can get by with the short. All monos have 25-30mm of cut-to-length capability at the shifter end.

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Carl Matson

Great, thanks!!

Hi Les,
Quick one, before you completely switch out the bars have you tried changing the angle so that it's more like the 'preying mantis' position?
[URL=http://imageshack.com/f/6slandiszv7p][/url]

Carl,

I own a 2011 speed concept 7.0 with stock Bontrager bull horn aero bars and aluminum S bend bars. Needless to say, the fatigue I have over an Ironman is a lot. I have decided to upgrade to carbon. What are my options from Bontrager? I'm specifically looking at the Generation 1 base bar and direct mount stem. Will those even fit the 7.0? Thanks!

Howdy!

The direct mount bar and stem of the original 9 series bike isn't compatible worth the 7-series of the same era. You can, however, hey the same comfy armpads and carbon ergo extensions in clip-on form. The Race X Lite clips are part# 426550.

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Carl Matson

Hi Carl,

Everything in the cockpit of my 2015 SC9 from the stem up is slightly misaligned compared to the front wheel. Any suggestions on an easy way to get everything in line other than a lot of trial and error?

Thanks,
Jeff

Carl,

I'm having an issue with the seat clamp on my 2014 SC P1. Even when both sides are equally torqued to 5.2Nm, using the pre-set Torgue wrench, the seat post will inch/mm it's way downwards over the course of only a couple of rides. In fact, on my sprint race yesterday it dropped an easy 3 inches on the first bump in the road (not good on races!!!). The seat tube definitely seems to have a slight forward/aft play and i notice drops in height when I shift from the nose to the back of the saddle during rides.

Is there a known issue with the 2014 seat clamp? Should I tighten to more than 5.2Nm?

Bob

try this: loosen those three stem-to-mono bolts (under the stem) a couple turns...align bar...tighten them again to spec. there's some clearance in the feature that allows the bar to slide fore-aft relative to the stem/mono.

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Carl Matson

Hi Bob-

no, I wouldn't recommend overtorquing those bolts. haven't heard of a case with the details you mention. bring it to your dealer for an evaluation.

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl.

I believe my low-near stem is slightly off alignment with the fork based on the aerobars and the stem cover being off-axis. I was wondering if you had any tricks for aligning the stem on the fork short of re-assembling everything and viewing the alignment.

Thanks,
Jeff