Thanks Carl. I have the Aura so maybe not an option. Also have an 808 rear already but really like the look of the disc.

This may be a question for xlab or Fizik but....I have the Fizik Tritone saddle and would like to fit a single bottle behind the seat. I've heard varying opinions on the feasibility of this. Have you any recommendations?

Hi Carl,

I just bought a '14 SC. Have ridden less than 50 miles on it, and this morning I noticed what looks like chipping at the front of the top tube caused by turning the bars all the way to the right or left. It has only been a few normal rides I have been on--nothing extreme, no crashes. I am really bummed, and it looks like something that will only get worse. I am not a mechanic, but I assume the bike was built correctly and this is more of a design issue? I bought in from Revolution Cycles in Arlington, VA and the head mechanic checked it over again after I went in for a fit.

Has this been covered before?

Thanks.

I have more pics, but unless I am missing something, it is a total pain in the ass to add them here.

Not familiar with the Tritone, so won't be of much help on that, sorry.

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Carl Matson

As you say, that is likely the result of the bars having been turned all the way to the right or left...but it also means it happened with enough force to overcome the bumper on the underside of the headtube. That's not something that typically occurs in normal riding conditions. Possible scenarios: the bars are allowed to flop around in a workstand or the bike is laid down on its side in the back of a car with the bars turned all the way to the side and it gets bounced while driving, or any number of other similar situations.

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Carl Matson

The XLAB Delta 400 fits nicely on the Fizik Tritone. There is also a thread which you can check out on single bottle carriers for the Fizik: http://forum.slowtwitch.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

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Candice Turner
CEO
XLAB - Aerodynamic Triathlon Accessories
Dawn to Dusk - Off-road Specific Storage Accessories
http://www.XLAB-USA.com http://www.dawntodusk.bike

Hi Carl. I have a first year speed concept project nine and have gradually developed seat post slippage issues. I have use carbon paste and now have resorted to duct tape and zip ties around the top of the post where it enters the frame. I am tightening beyond specs, and I am still getting slippage. What should I do?

might want to check your post for damage...if you're beyond spec torque it's highly likely the post has been crushed and once that happens there's no amount of tightening which will keep it in place. easiest way to tell if you've got that kind of damage: remove post from bike and lay the leading edge along a flat surface...look at that edge from the side...a crushed section will show up as an arc of daylight.

the remedy for that is a new post. when tightening the seatpost wedge on the new post, don't go right to the 7.2Nm max spec as that may crush it right off the bat...most people will get adequate clamp-up around 4Nm, maybe 5Nm. better to sneak up on it gradually.

hope this helps.

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Carl Matson

x2 for what Carl posted.

What has also worked for me in the past is to make a shim from an aluminum can (Steinlager works best).

I cut a section about 2"x3", lightly sanded the side that contacted the seatpost (to increase coefficient of friction) and then bent it around the seat post (3" dimension up/down) so that it was positioned between the wedge and the seat post.

This solution withstood the chipseal roads of IMNZ for two years with no slippage.

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Team Kiwami
Instagram

Thanks for your reply. I will take it out and look at it. Just to clarify, I did not start torqueing past max. Previously used 6-7. Only had to resort to going over the limit once it started slipping no matter what else I did.

I believe there was a recall on the seat binder for the earlier year SC's.

Thanks for the idea. I will definitely give it a try.

there has never been a recall on any SC for anything.

there have been warranty replacements for certain original SC hardware.

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Carl Matson

what I think walth meant to say, is that there have been warranty replacements of certain original SC hardware, of which the seatpost clamp is one. it's easy to tell if you've got the new one: it's marked with a 7.2Nm max torque spec...the original was 11Nm.

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Carl Matson

Yes agree, sorry wrong choice of words.

no worries...nothing personal...just want to be sure that anyone else reading this thread doesn't get the wrong idea. recall is a special word when it comes to consumer goods.

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Carl Matson

Does anyone know the specs for the little screws for the arm pads on the SC? Mine are getting a little stripped on the heads (where the wrench fits), so I want some backups. Thanks!

PN 517271 gets you 4 of them plus the "dogbone" washers (just in case they're damaged when you try to remove stripped bolts).

Otherwise, they are M4x0.7 10mm button head stainless steel.

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Carl Matson

Hey Carl, I've got a Speed Concept 2.5 that has the Race-Lite clip on aero bars. Would I be able to swap the pad holders to the ones that the 9.0 has for example without too much fan fare? I prefer the upsweep on the outside of the pad holders for comfort sake.

Thanks in advance!

That should be pretty straighforward...you will want to keep the pad holder bolts from the original pads, as I think those are M5 where the new ones are M4.

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Carl Matson

Great, thank you so much for the quick reply!

if worst comes to worst, the P-clamps from the 2010-2013 bike will slide right on to the clip-on extensions....they're just one position wider than the stock clip-on P-clamps...and they'll take the new pad holder bolts directly.

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Carl Matson

Hi Carl -- I just purchased the 2015 SC 9 series (awesome bike). I'm thinking about getting the Ruster Sports Hen House as a travel case but want to know how easy/difficult it will be to remove my fork. Are you aware of any videos or instruction manuals that walk through this process? Thanks!

Welcome aboard!

No vids or manuals published by us related to this specific kind of teardown. The 2014 SC owners manual does walk through assembly from the ground up...and after reviewing the steps related to fork and cockpit in particular with a little thought you can probably figure out what it takes to remove the fork while leaving most everything else intact. This is MUCH easier on the 2014+ bike with the addition of the removable internal steerer. First review the applicable sections of the manual. Then, the basic steps are:

• remove brake cover and release brake wedge from between brake arms
• remove stem cover (might require loosening the stem-to-mono bolts slightly)
• loosen stem pinch band
• remove stem-to-fork bolts
• pull stem and bar assembly off of fork and internal steerer
• remove internal steerer lock bolt under fork crown
• remove internal steerer

Fork is off. Reverse those steps (applying corrent torque at each step per manual) to reassemble.

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Carl Matson

wow -- thanks for the super quick reply Carl! your steps outlined make sense and i'll take a good look at the manual. thanks for the help.

Hey Carl,

Just to follow up. The newer/better version pads I ordered for my 2.5 bolted right in now issues. Much more comfy front end now which makes this great bike even more amazing.

Thanks again.