I can give you the armpad coordinates frommy retul fit. Would that help?

Hi Nicolas

I don't think it has anything to do with the crank. Based on pictures of the FSA adapter, my guess is it's hitting the flanges we'd put in our BB86 frames for additional cup support.

On the undersized bearing drag and durability, I was referring to the ones (6706?) I've got from when someone tried to use a Zipp Vumachrono in an original SC9. The FSA may indeed be an improvement (I'll bet it isn't fighting 4 sets of seals), but I'd still steer customers towards a drag & drop BB86 solution like the one I linked to in your Black Friday thread.

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Carl Matson

It would. If you can post a picture of the fit sheet that would be ideal, but if not, I believe they list pad coordinates a couple different ways and the ones you want are those listed as "from BB".

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Carl Matson

Carl,

Arm pad stack BB (BB vertical to top of arm pad) = 589mm
Arm pad reach BB (BB horizontal to back of arm pad) = 438mm
Saddle height (BB center to center of saddle profile) = 726 mm
Saddle setback (Horizontal distance from BB to saddle front tip) = 4mm
Crank arm length 162.5mm

Let me know if this is enough info to put me on the right size bike Carl. Thanks

Assuming that's a fit you're happy with, on the 2014 bike my first choice would be medium frame & low-far stem with the 25mm monospacer. For the older model you'd fit on the same size frame and the 100/10 stem, but you'd be slammed on that stem and the only way to go lower would be to start with the small frame and same stem which would give you about 30mm to play with on the low end.

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Carl Matson

It's going to be a 2014. I actually subtracted 10mm off the arm pad stack because I want to go a little lower than I currently am. But I'm happy with the reach. So when im doing a project one, can I order the bike with that setup? Or does the bike come standard a certain way?

In Project One you get to specify the setup.

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Carl Matson

Thanks for your help. Hopefully I'll be on a new ride soon

So I am waiting for delivery of a Zipp Super 9 disk. I have Bontrager stock race training wheels on my 7.5. I will also receive carbon friendly Zipp brake pads. What am I in for as I change out between Zipps for races and training wheels? I am aware of the advice to avoid using pads that have been exposed to metal brake tracks with carbon tracks. Change pads each time? What about clearance at the rear brake? Any hassle to adjust? Thanks much.

Also, what bearings do I need to purchase so that my Quarq Elsa GXP will work with the BB90?

Check out my new whip...SC Project 1 DA Di2 build:

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Roar Lion Roar

I have a 2011 SC 9.9 size large with a fork cracking on the inside next to the brake boss post. Does anyone have a 9.9 size large fork that is orphaned?

Now there is a color i have not seen yet! Congrats, what color is it? The red of wheels don't match, can you get zipp decals that match? Great looking bike though.

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2024: Bevoman, Galveston, Alcatraz, Marble Falls, Santa Cruz

Smoke red with ink blue decals. Yea I have to change out the Zipp decals. What a great bike, indeed.

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Roar Lion Roar

If you're getting an SC build with SRAM cranks and just swapping in your GXP-based Elsa there's nothing you need to buy separately. If you're getting a frameset or a Shimano-based build then you'll need one of these GXP bearing kits:

411814 ceramic
404700 steel

from your Trek dealer

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Carl Matson

if you're talking about a 2014 SC7.5, besides the brake pad swap you'll probably need to adjust the pad width, which is easily done with a 2mm allen wrench from the nondrive side (see figure 11.8, page 30, in the 2014 SC service manual).

the original 7.5 (2010-2013) doesn't have that centering feature on the rear brake, which means you may need to move spacers from the inside of the brake arms to the outside.

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Carl Matson

Nice bike sevenride. I noticed you have the Bontrager speed concept water bottle cage. I was wondering if it comes with the mounting hardware to mount on the mono extension? I just picked up a regular 7.5 and the shop had already installed the cage on the down tube. The bike and cage were both a special order since the shop does not sell many tri bikes. I asked about the mounting hardware but the other employees didn't know if it came with the cage, and the mechanic that built up the bike was not in. They did mention that there is the small rubber piece for the computer mount, and I am going back for that later. I was not sure if the mounting hardware spacer got misplaced when building up the bike or it needs to be purchased separately. The main reason I wanted the cage was that I was expecting it to come with the hardware. The MSRP is a little high for just the cage.

Yes, it comes with everything you need to mount it directly on the bar. I have the same one.

Thanks for the quick reply. Hopefully the mechanic kept the extra pieces. I don't think the shop sees many speed concepts and didn't know I wanted the cage on the extensions.

Oh my! That's the only place it was meant to be used. You're welcome.

Yes, as stated, it comes with the mounting hardware. The only thing I don't like about is that the computer mount puts my Garmin a bit too high and makes looking at the computer awkward when aero. I plan on mounting the Garmin on the aerobars. Good luck with the new whip.

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Roar Lion Roar

Having trouble with the aerobar attachment bolts easily stripping out on 2014 7.5, any suggestions or is it just me? I'm referring to the bit rounding the inside of the bolt, metal seems very soft.

Chad

I think it's been mentioned a time or two on the forum here...and while I don't discount the possibility of a quality issue, I admit my first reaction is to question the wrench (literally)...the 4mm hex is a really common size for lots of bike applications and as a result that wrench gets a lot of use...that translates to wear...and when those corners get even a little rounded it's very easy to damage the broach on bolt heads even when using a torque wrench to stated specs. It doesn't need to look as bad as this one to be a problem.

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Carl Matson

I'm new to the forum so I apologize if this has already been discussed. I used a new torque wrench with new bit however I suspect the bit is low quality. Would I be able to find the same bolt made from stainless or should I just order new bolts from LBS?

Thanks for the quick response

Chad

Remember bolts are marked for max torque. And not all torque wrenches are perfect. I don't know if you automatically set your wrench to max but for most bolts you will get a sufficient hold far below max torque.