every time you reinstall the crank you may be temporarily closing up whatever gap or play is causing the noise (if indeed that's what's causing the noise), and it gradually works loose again over the first hour of your ride.

and I confess I'm still puzzled by this "adapter" you mentioned. I've never heard of anyone else with a GXP Quarq on an SC installing any sort of adapter. maybe a picture of it would help .

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Carl Matson

Hi Carl,

http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/trek/683398d1332427214-trek-bb90-gxp-problems-mms95picture.jpg


That is the kit that you have to buy in order to fit GXP to your SC as far as I am aware...

What he means by the adapter is the little metal insert that goes inside the NDS bearing. I had initially used GXP with the bike, but then removed the little insert to use a Rotor 3D crankset with it. When he bought the bike from me we got the LBS to press out the bearing and put the insert back in so he could use GXP with it, along with doing some other work such as swapping the stem to the one he needed and replacing the headset bearings. He's had the bike for over a year now.

OK...that's not an adapter...that's a standard GXP bearing kit. I was getting the impression there was something additional beyond that BB kit which had been added, but it looks like that's not the case. One more possible noise source eliminated!

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Carl Matson

So perhaps a new set of bearings is a worthwhile try...

yes...based on SteveIrwin's latest post I'd say your next move is to replace what you've got with a new GXP BB90 kit...404700 for steel, 411814 for ceramic, from your Trek dealer.

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl!

Carl,
I have a 2014 speed concept 7. At the start of the season the bike worked flawlessly. However in the past month the front end has developed a pop when I weight the aerobars and a pop when I unweight the aerobars. Initially I was able to loosen the steering axle pinch bolt and then re-torque it and it would be good for a couple of rides. After this failed to eliminate the issue I got concerned and disassembled the front end to look for cracks, etc. Finding none I reassembled per the instructions in the trek service manual. I re-torqued everything to spec. This eliminated the pop for one ride but toward the end of the ride it came back. I did some testing while not on the bike with the bolts torqued. This included weighting and unweighting the aero bars. Each time I would weight them the pop occurred and I could feel a shift where the stem adapter(I have the 7 so I use the adapter with a traditional stem, not the integrated stem) connects with the steering axle. It is very repeatable and I am confident that the popping is occurring when the stem adapter shifts up on the steering axle and weights the front of the fork where the stem to fork attachment bolts are. Further evidence of this occurs when looking at the front of the fork under the adapter with the brake cover removed - there is evidence of paint chipping from the extra compression in that area. I even tried using some carbon paste between the stem adapter and the steering axle(to try to prevent slippage) to no avail. I can only believe that the fork is currently being damaged a little each time this occurs. What is my next step?
Joe

Sounds like you went through a good troubleshooting process and I agree about where the noise is coming from. When everything is assembled correctly and torqued to spec there shouldn't be any movement of the stem under loading...that indicates it's still loose. Check the length of the two bolts holding the front of the stem to the fork...threaded portion should be 20mm long...it they're longer (say, 25mm) then they may bottom out on the inside of the fork before clamping everything up. Incidentally, carbon assembly paste is virtually useless on aluminum-to-aluminum surfaces...it's meant to bite into carbon/plastic, not metal.

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Carl Matson

Carl. I removed the stem to fork attachment bolts and both were measured at 20mm.

Then maybe it's time to get the shop involved and see if they see something obvious. Not much more I can do from over the web.

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Carl Matson

Just don't plan based on the upper limit of time based upon the LBS gives you from the configuration tool. My bike had an upper time range of 42 days and its showing a ship date that is 53 days out now so they may be running behind.

Mine had an "11 day" delay but arrived about 2-3 after the original ship date.

Hi all, any real reason why my mechanic (Trek dealer) is pushing back a tad regarding re-cabling brakes on my SC9? Seems to think its a major PITA and doesn't see it worth while - meanwhile, happily re-cabled gears. I'm lazy, never actually done it myself (should do) but time also a factor for me so would rather he service the bike and getting it running sweet. Brakes cables haven't been changed in 18mths, includes quite a bit of weather, humidity, dust & travelling. Just thought he'd have changed brakes & gears all together...
Cheers.

Sometimes I wish I could read minds, but I haven't figured out how to do it yet. Have you asked directly?

While it's not a truly "sealed" system, the only places where housing doesn't cover the inner wire are inside the frame, so there isn't the same opportunity for cables (brake or shift) to become rusty or damaged from exposure to the elements...that might be some of the logic behind your dealer's choice? There's a little more involved in doing housing + wires vs just wires, but the latter is pretty simple for all but the lowest two stems.

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl - sorry, should've been more direct and asked if there was any real technical reason for avoiding recabling brakes (inners+outs on 100 stem) other than it perhaps being a bit tedious to do ;-) Mechanic has always replied with 'not really worth doing & its a PITA to do' so hence my question to the forum, i.e. is that a fact or just his theory?
Thanks again, appreciate the quick feedback.

whether it's fact or theory is in the eye (or mind) of the beholder. don't know how many he has done...don't know what his workflow is...don't know how that shop structures their service charges/labor hour expectations (e.g. an SC brake job is/isn't treated the same as an ordinary caliper brake job)...don't know how many comments positive or negative he has heard about the brakes and is projecting onto your bike...don't know if he thinks you're a bit tedious...and that last one isn't a personal jab from me...I don't know you...but I know from personal experience that it can make a difference regardless of whether it's true or not.

there's no technical reason to avoid doing the brakes...as in, there's nothing about the job that can't be done, or shouldn't be done.

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Carl Matson

Carl, I'm just your run of the mill, OCD & stressy triathlete in pre-race mode! ;-)

that explains it then...(PITA)^tedious :-P

want to see something hilarious? me attending a race I'm not participating in. complete basket case. after 27yrs of racing my reaction to the raceday atmosphere is virtually Pavlovian. everything around me is screaming "time to GO!"

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Carl Matson

It's gotten so bad that my body's pavlovian response is to signal "head for the bushes, now!" as soon as I pull off the highway on my way to a race/ride.

In other news, since it seems I'm doomed to spend the rest of my degree configuring various mouth-watering SC setups:

I've always understood that the 7-series is BB86, and the 9-series BB90. Has that changed in the 2014 models? Site says the 7 is now also BB90.

Secondly, since the spec sheets don't show a difference between the two - if I prefer the 9.5 WSD colour, is there any reason that I, a 6"2 male who'd fit either an L or an XL, should prefer the non-WSD one? Do all come with the Ergo Long, from XS to XL?

Does a Draft Box ordered together with a 7-series come with it colour-matched? Or at least, all-black rather than the black-and-silver mockup on the site?

What's the process on ordering an XS size, of either model, via Project 1? Are there options as far as wheels are concerned, or do they come with the Xero wheels that the 9.5WSD comes with?

I apologize that I keep coming back and bugging you with questions. Reason for all these questions is that we're two triathletes in this household on opposite ends of the sizing spectrum which dictates certain equipment options on her bike that I'm not sure are compatible with the Speed Concept. We want to get matching (or colour-reversed via P1) bikes after the degree :)

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ZONE3 - We Last Longer

yup, the 2014 is BB90 for all models.

no geometry difference for WSD...just colorway and saddle spec.

ergo long is the stock spec for all sizes, yes...but in Project One you can pick the shape and length (short is available for the ergo)

no draftbox colormatching for 7-series. I think future plans are for all-black draftbox2's for aftermarket.

XS via P1 is no different than any other size in terms of the process. I'm seeing Hed Jet60's as another wheel choice in that size on the dealer P1 page.

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Carl Matson

Mix of good and bad news, then.

Since Rotor just cancelled the shorter lengths of the 3D (BSA/Shimano-spindle) cranks, it seems like the 3D+ (BB30) is the only power-metering option shorter than 160mm - and that's not adaptable to BB90. That leaves her stuck to either a Powertap or Vectors, it seems - both far from ideal.

HED's wheels don't show up on the P1 website (understandably so) but are exactly the option we've been thinking of.

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ZONE3 - We Last Longer

Any resolution to the popping on your SC?
I have/had similar popping problem accompanied with creaking noise from headset (also '14 SC7). Creaking noise pretty loud while sprinting or climbing. Three trips to two different LSB and now they are replacing front fork and steerer axle due to damaged threads.
I thought the two were related but now not sure.

No resolution yet. The shop and the rep looked at it and are currently replacing the headset bearings, even though I can see and feel shifting of the steerer axle area... Just hoping that the test ride after bearing replacement doesnt cause me to lose teeth...