I am putting together a 9070 di2 upgrade for my Medium 2011 Speed concept 9.5. I want to make sure I have all the necessary pieces before finalizing my order. I am ok with the major stuff but could use help with the shifters and etube wiring lengths/harnesses etc. I also want to safeguard myself so I can run 10 speed if necessary just until I sort out my wheels etc. I have a set of 808 firecrest that would need to be upgraded to 11 speed. I also have a super 9 disc. I have read that it can be converted to campy and it will work with 11 speed. Does that sound correct?

From my research, I have gathered:

FD: 9070

RD: 9070. I also have a a road bike with ultegra di2 and I believe I can plug in that RD to make the system 10 speed if necessary.

Bar end shifters: R671. There are one button and two button. I'm thinking about going with the two button so I can control both derailleurs from the TT position. Sound like a safe option? Why would people want 1 button?

Brakes: 9071 bullhorn shifters to allow shifting while climbing. Do these come with wires?

Battery: I'd like to go internal and have selected SM-BTR2. Will this work with the 2011 speed concept seat post?
Along with that battery I have selected: Charger: SM-JC41

Junction Boxes: SM-EW90-B 5 port and SM-JC41 internal junction box.

PC Link: SM-PCE1 so I can tweak the components as necessary and switch between 10 and 11 speed if necessary.

Chain: Any 11 speed chain will work with 9070 and any 10 speed chain will work with 6770, correct?

Etube Cables: From another post "Cables: You will need 4 EW-SD50 cables and a JC 41 internal junction box.
1) RD
2) FD
3) Battery
4) Internal junction to the 5port junction " Any idea on lengths? I want a bit of slack for position tweaks, etc but I don't want a ton of slack. You know what I'm going for here.


I think that covers it. Am I missing anyhting?

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Head Coach Grn Mchn Multisports Coaching, LLC
http://www.grnmchnmultisports.com

I just had an idea. I have the upgraded bontrager brake levers with the built in barrel adjusters. I would like to keep that option since swapping wheels is a nightmare without it. I don't believe that TT shift lever set ST-9071 has barrel adjusters. Would it be a viable option to put climber switches (SW-R600) out on the bullhorn bars instead?

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Head Coach Grn Mchn Multisports Coaching, LLC
http://www.grnmchnmultisports.com

Howdy!

you'll have to check out Zipp's website/customer service re: super9 and 11spd conversions.

two button vs one button is a personal choice based on what sort of riding you do (or expect to do)...maybe you believe you'll only ever "need" to deal with the chainrings when you're on the bullhorns...might be more true for TTers than triathletes...neither is inherently safer than the other.

all 9xxx series TT shifters come with wires.

some people have made the internal battery work with the original SC seatpost...officially, it doesn't. you may be able to wedge it in there. it may stay there. it may not.

don't think I understand your chain question?...11spd works with 11spd, 10spd works with 10spd, and staying within a brand (e.g. Shimano chains with Shimano drivetrain components) tends to result in the most reliable performance. lots of chain and cross-componentry compatibility stuff over on VeloNews lately.

e-tube lengths are, as you hint at, another personal thing. here's a post from another medium SC driver with his parts and lengths list. the nice thing about Di2 wiring is that it hardly weighs anything and is easy to stash (as compared to mechanical shift housing).

on the satellite shifters, you might try grabbing your bullhorns and seeing where your fingers fall to decide whether or not there's a convenient location to mount them.

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Carl Matson

Will the climbing shifters work in lieu of the brake lever with built in buttons? I'm worried about compatibility issues.

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Head Coach Grn Mchn Multisports Coaching, LLC
http://www.grnmchnmultisports.com

sounds like a question for Shimano? as far as I know, as long as it's based on e-tube wiring, it's plug and play and you use the software for configuration purposes (which button does what).

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Carl Matson

I think Iv narrowed my creaking, it is from the cables under the stem! Zip ties will be required

Hi Carl,

I'm still creaking ;)
When I lean on tri bars it's the creaking although tonight I took out front wheel leaned on the tri bars and no creaking it can't be front wheel csn it? (Zipp 808)

Should I order new pre load nut and try that ? Or worth greasing old one? It's not loose at all since I tightened 4 weeks ago.

Can it be anything else?

As mentioned I'm using tririg clamps and no spacers I'm slammed down :)

noises can come from lots of unexpected places . since you mentioned wheel , try changing only the wheel ...then try changing the quick release ...then make sure your quick release is adjusted properly and try to make the noise again .

hard to say if the tririg clamps are part of it ...they were designed to fit on our bike , but they were not designed with the bike .

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Carl Matson

I have a 2012 Trek SC 7.5 with SRAM Force crankset.

I'm a gumby when it comes to bike matters :) I'm looking to get a Powermeter and am looking at Stages. However I don't think it's compatible with SRAM Force cranks. Wondering if I can just fit an SRAM Rival on left crank - will it make any real difference? I Anyone else done this with an SC?

Thanks for any advice.

Yup, you can use the Stages SRAM Rival as the left side crank. The only downside is that you will have a mismatched looking crankset, but otherwise it'll do the job just fine :)

OMFG.


Ingenius.

I have a 2014 SC 7.5.

Has anybody changed out the armrests on the stock cockpit? The stock (plastic?) rests are too flexible for my tastes. Is there a stiffer replacement option with the same hole sizes/spacings for mounting?

TIA
-Garrett

the pad holders from the previous generation bike fit that description...exact same hole pattern and overall shape, but considerably stiffer (and heavier). PN 420488 from your Trek dealer.

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Carl Matson

Carl,


What's the current lead time for a Project One Speed Concept?

way too many variable unaccounted for in that question, sorry. a single component choice and supplier shortage of same can make weeks (months?) of difference. your best bet for an answer is to either go through a P1 configuration directly with your dealer or whip one up on the P1 website and then bring that to your dealer. at that point you/your dealer will get a real-time idea of what the leadtime is for your choices and what changes you might be willing to make to shorten that up.

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Carl Matson

I installed a Wheelbuilder disk on my 2014 7.5 stock wheel (Bontrager Race). It was easy to install and fits to a T. No problem with chain rub on either inner cassette cog nor the disk against the Duotrap sensor. The magnet is still attached to the spoke and no problem with pickup.

thanks for the report! now you just have to go fast :-)

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Carl Matson

Anyone know where I can get replacement arms pads for my aerobars? They're Bontrager race x lites on a 2012 SC 7.8. Thanks!

Hi Carl - first time posting here. I have a first gen SC 9.9 (bought from tarmacexpert on here) - I've been trying to get to the bottom of a creaking sound.

I have gxp qaurq and the adapter is fitted in the frame, however when I attach the crank for the first hour of riding there is no noise, it's fine, after some time a creaking grinding esque noise begins which only gets worse with each pedal stroke. Any ideas? I've looked at the seal and it's in fine condition, I've greased the bearings, made sure when the creaking starts that everything is still tight with no play I just cannot work out why it would not do it when I first attach the crank but does after an hour or so, is it the wave washer grinding on something?

Also has anyone had issues with (different noise) squeezing SRAM red jockey wheels? I have read about that box but surely this would only creak with the full weight if a rider on the bike? I can elicit these noises by pushing my hand on the cranks...

Put some carbon paste on your seat post. This has solved 98% of my creaking issues. Another trick is to lube your quick releases as I've found this is a source of creaking.

I know it sounds weird as I was convinced the noise was coming from my crank at one point but the above fixed my issue.

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blog

Adapter? So long as you've got a gxp BB90 kit in there the gxp quarq should be a straightforward drop-in, IIRC.

Another creaking source I've recently experienced a rash of: loose chainring bolts.

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Carl Matson

PN 437028 from your Trek dealer

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Carl Matson

Hi guys,

So the noise can be produced without even sitting on the bike so its not the seatpost, and the crank I also use on a Cervelo road bike and it makes no noise, so not chainrings.

Carl - yes the adapter is in place, along with the metal seal non drive side, rubber seal and wave washer on drive side, and yet it still makes this horrible noise after about an hour of riding...

Did you replace the bottom bracket bearings after you bought the bike? It might be worth a try. They aren't that costly and are an easy swap.

Yes, I think my shop put new bearings in at the same time. They do seem quite tight in there, not like they would just fall out...

I understand the adapter is pressed in there with a bit more force than it would be without?

Tarmaxexpert mentioned it could be down to a worn frame, could this be possible? I'd think it could, but if it were that, then the noise would happen all the time, rather than starting after an hour...?