A couple seasons running with this system and no issues. I doubt super glue would hold against pulling the bottle in and out of the cage.

if the pinch band had deformed the preload nut I'd expect to see a couple of ridges (corresponding to the opening in the back of the pinch band). also possible the pinch band was overtightened at some point and the pinch band is damaged, in which case you may or may not see a crack in the band. if you see a crack then the stem needs to be replaced.

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Carl Matson

Lower bearing - http://www.bikewagon.com/...et-blue-seal-36x45-1

Appreciate the feedback. Will check into it and inspect carefully before re-assembly. Bearings arrive in the mail tomorrow, just in time for my 70.3 Sunday. Cheers!

Carl, you were right. Pinch bolt had a hairline crack in it, that turned into a fairly large crack upon re-tightening this time (using a torque wrench set to 5.2 nm). I'm ordering a new stem from my LBS.

One other issue that happened today. There are 3 hex nuts that attach the stem to the fork (left right and center). As I was tightening the left-side hex nut, some grease literally popped out of the side of the fork...not sure how but a drop of grease must have dropped in the bolt hole, and liquids obviously don't compress, so now there's somewhat of a pimple on the side of the fork where it relieved the pressure. No cracks, thank goodness, but now I'm wondering if I shouldn't buy a new fork just to be safe...anyone else heard of this happening?

Any way I can send you a picture, Carl, so you can see what I'm talking about? Not sure how to post one here...

A hole or crack like that in the side of the fork indicates damage and it should be replaced.

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Carl Matson

Carl

Could you please confirm the bolts needed for the bottle mountings on the SC 2014?

I'm assuming both sets of mounts on the frame are standard bottle cage bolts? Are those on the mono front and back (where the special bonty cage/bracket attaches) the same?


Cheers

nothing special about them...ordinary decent M5 water bottle bolts...and yes, those bosses on the mono for the BTA cage take the same bolts, but those two bosses are not on normal cage spacing (which is one reason we have the bracket).

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl - much appreciated. I know the mono spacing isn't regular but am looking to rig something up with a single bolt at one end and some zip ties at the other until I can either get the bracket as a stand alone that you mentioned was coming or maybe get someone to make me something of that nature or, if I have to, buying the bottle and mount so I can get the mount bracket.

Cheers

I have a 2014 7.5 with the stock Bontrager wheels. Can you recommend options for a rear wheel cover? Thanks much.

I just bought a bare 2012 9 series SC frame (Med.) and am currently buying componets to build it up. I am presently looking at bottle cages and bottle types. I really like the V shaped aero bottles mounted low just above the cranks. Can anyone tell me which brand/model acually fits the shape there the best when either mounted on the down tube or seat tube?

Additionally, what is the current reccomendation for a behind the seat 2 bottle holder? How well does the bontrager 2 pack aero setup work?

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Rick Loving
S Chicago
2012 9.9 Speed Concept

I have a 2013 SC 7.8. It's great except for one issue. I've been fixing my saddle position lately because I have been getting saddle sores and general pain when riding. I'm on the RXL hilo. When I try to adjust the angle of the saddle, the post head is seized up and won't allow any change. Can I pop out the little pieces (they feel like ceramic or something) inside the post head, grease 'em up, and plop them back in? Thanks, guys.

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@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri

Hi there-

They're aluminum...you can pop them out.

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Carl Matson

I got the new Zipp Tangente corks pads, I can see that they don't come with the hole for the speed concept brakes bolts, can I just use them without the security bolt?

When I was using the Zipp cork pads I cut the groove out using a razor knife.

The tougher part of the process is getting those ridiculous holder screws out without stripping them. No replacement part number AfAIK so buying replacement cartridges is necessary. Trek could really help out with an update in this area.

Hi Carl, I'm trying to source additional arm rest spacers for my 2011 SC 9.9, could I trouble you for the part numbers as my LBS which is a Trek Dealer can't find it on their system. Thanks

maybe they're not looking in the right place: speed concept>handlebars>bontrager rxl/speed concept aero bar parts

a spacer kit for one side is 420552
the corresponding bolt kit is 420693

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Carl Matson

Thanks very much, awesome help as always Carl, I was a wee bit surprised myself but I'll cut the LBS some slack as they only opened for business a few weeks ago, I'm just glad I have a local Trek Dealer, used to have to drive over an hour to the nearest one which was 80km away. Cheers

Hi Carl,

Out today and Iv had a lot of creaking from the front end today ..I think mostly tri bars. I'm in a 9.5 sc 2011 with tririg clamps.
Before I start stripping and greasing any thoughts on what maybe most likely cause? I did have a loose headset bolt a few weeks ago. The bike is only riden once a week for 120k+

Cheers
S

first thought is that your bike might be old enough to have the original headset preload nut...there was a redesign which improved on the diameter mismatch (which could lead to a loose stem pinch bolt and then creaking)...the new PN for the 2nd generation preload nut is w328492.

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Carl Matson

Thanks

Yes the pinch bolt was loose last time. Checked tonight but not loose but still creaking? Worth just changing and ordering new bolt?

I take it's just a case of take bolt out and replace nothing else required for pinch bolt?

The bolt isn't the problem...bolt is a symptom...new preload nut is the first and best shot at a fix.

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Carl Matson

Good friend has the newest speed speed concept 9.x, and really hasn't enjoyed the braking performance at all. I haven't dug through all 900 pages of this thread yet but was wondering if others have had issues, and are there any tricks to improve it or gotchas that he might have done wrong that would make it bad?

I hadn't heard many complaints about the brakes before so though I would check and see.

Carl if you have any input I would appreciate it, thanks!

Edit for more details: he is using new bontrager deep wheels that the bike came with, and cork pads because he says that is all bontrager allows you to use. He reports lack of power, poor modulation, and sometimes 'grabby'

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

Assuming the brakes are properly setup (symmetrical pad clearance etc), 90% of the fault lies with the pads and the wheels IMO. I have a 2014 7.0 which I got last year and had 2013 Aeolus 7s with the Bontrager cork pads. Braking was... acceptable and nothing more. They can be grabby, modulation is abysmal, and in the wet stopping distances are very long.

I've since switched to 303/808FC with their "Tangente Platinum Evo" pads and it's been a night and day difference.

Hi Jack-

Hard to say what the tips & tricks might be, without seeing/feeling it in person. I will say that where the rear brake is concerned, running the pads too close to the rim will definitely result in a mushy brake response. The way that wedge works, the "step" needs to pass the rollers on the upper brake arms before the pads contact the rim...there should be a very pronounced sensation of pads "hitting" the rim before modulation begins...as opposed to a gradual drawing-in of the pads to the rim surface.

This is also true for the front brake, though to a much lesser degree.

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Carl Matson