No there is't, sorry.

How old is your PowerTap? We stopped making the smaller 12mm stuff almost 4 years ago.

It is possible to swap axles but you'd have to send it back to us. We also have entire wheel upgrade options that might be of interest to you.

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Jesse Bartholomew

Thanks, Jesse. I have had the hub about three years and my LBS ordered it for me from Mavic already installed in a set of wheels. I wasn't aware of the axle difference at the time. I may send it back to you with the free hub and let you guys install the bigger axle and the 11-speed free hub at the same time. Would it be OK if I send the whole wheel to Saris? I don't suppose they need it unlaced to do the upgrade, but maybe I am wrong.

Greg

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If you are a Canuck that engages in gratuitous bashing of the US, you are probably on my Iggy List. So, save your self a bunch of typing a response unless you also feel the need to gratuitously bash me. If so, have fun.
"Don't underestimate Joe's ability to f___ things up" - Barack Obama, 2020

Yes we can take the wheel, no need to disassemble.


Email me at powertap@gmail.com and I'll have somebody help you set up the return.

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Jesse Bartholomew

An update in case anyone else is having this problem. Firmware 7.63 indeed solved the distance inflation problem, but it also has a problem causing every the overall time to be "compressed" by about 40% every ~3 rides (i.e. a 60min ride downloads as 40min) and does not record a distance. This is a known bug so I've gone back to v7.60. The solution was worse than the problem.

Quick question, I have a wired comp model and went on a really nasty ride the other day and caked the hub in road grime and salt, it's so bad I can't see the carbon window parts anymore. Is there anything I should worry about when cleaning it or am I good to just run it under a low flowing hose like I do everything else?

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Wash away.

Just don't drive water/grit/grim into the bearings etc. via direct high pressure spray. This goes for all bike componentry....

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Jesse Bartholomew

Last night on the trainer I was doing an endurance ride at a very easy level of effort for 90 minutes. About 20-30 minutes into the ride I noticed the tension and level of effort I had to put in would get more difficult out of nowhere for a few minutes and then ease up again. This happened several times, and eventually it led to me having to gear down to stay within the power range I was required to ride in for the remainder of the ride. I was maintaining the exact same cadence and gear, yet the watts readout would spike 20+. (Example: if I was riding at constant 120 watts, it would jump to 140 without me changing a gear or changing my cadence).

Does this sound like a PT issue or a maybe a trainer issue? I was wondering if maybe it was because I brought my bike and trainer inside the warm house from the freezing cold garage and the temperature change affected it? I am riding a 2011 wireless PT, and my trainer is a Fluid2.

Thank you.

If you actually felt a like it got harder intermittently it is more than likely the trainer. Since the PowerTap seemed to validate this I would go with this theory, in which case the cold temp. transition could be the culprit.


Do you normally store the trainer in the cold and then ride in warmer conditions? If so can you not do that and report back??

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Jesse Bartholomew

It was the first time I didn't actually do my ride in the garage, so it was the first time I moved it from the garage where it was cold, to the house where it was warm. I rode again this morning and kept everything in the house overnight where it was warm, and I didn't experience the same issue. It seems the cold to warm transition would be the cause. If it happens again without the temperature transition I'll report back but chances are we found the issue. Thank you for getting back to me.

Got a new PowerTap about a month ago and it has worked great until last night, all trainer rides. Cadence and speed readings were accurate the whole time. At first the power was showing as 0 or 1, stopped a few times, then it was up over 1000W for 5+ minutes, then down to zero and it ramped up to 220 over the balance of the 60 minute ride. Reading on TrainerRoad and 910 match. Pretty constant HR for the intervals but about 40W increase every 10 minutes. Wouldn't think it is a low battery issue because the cadence and speed are fine, plus it's got <20 hours on it. Do I just go right back to my LBS with it or does it sound like it's worth it to try changing the battery? Searched a little but couldn't find any issues which match this one. NP of 797 forthe ride does look nice though.

I'm in. I placed my order for a G3 yesterday. It will get built into my existing Felt wheel. Power up!

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Pete Githens
Reading, PA

Hi there


Apologies for jumping aboard and using my first post to ask a numpty question, but I would be grateful for your thoughts and views on the below?


I predominantly have ridden indoors recently using a PT Pro+ and Trainerroad. When calibrating the PT on both the 910xt and 705 last night, the PT flashed up a calibration score of 529 which I understand is north of the recommended ~520 score.



- What does that mean to the data itself? Is it less consistent, and therefore one can live with it as long as one treats the results with a bit of salt, or is it time to send it to the distributor in the UK?

- Does the fact that it is 9 "points" out (i.e. around 2% over 520) just mean that it is 2% over/under the real power value? I'm sure I can live with that, as long as it's consistent.

I guess where I'm going is... Shall I ship it off for a month to Paligap, or can I live with it for now?

Hope that makes sense!

Hi Jesse

I have a powertap pro training wheel (bought in July 2012) which I've been using twice per week, one outdoor long ride, one on the turbo. I've had no problems so far and it's been a great tool.

when I jumped on the turbo for my session this evening and started pedalling, the watts were very low for the gear and cadence I was in so I stepped off and the cranks stopped immediately, and felt like they were being impeded by something. I took the chain off the chainrings with the intention of removing the crank to see what the problem was, and as soon as I did that the crank span easily.

turns out that the rear hub is not spinning freely when the wheel is clamped in the frame. clamping it in the turbo makes it worse, it's almost as if the loads on the bearings is too tight and they won't spin. I also can't reverse the cranks as the chain just "bunches" as if the freewheel is stuck. releasing the QR allows the wheel to spin freely again.

any ideas?

cheers

I'd first suggest checking your cassette lock ring. Maybe even removing and reinstalling the cassette. While off I'd check that the other end caps are all in position before installing back on the bike. And other possibility i've seen/heard about is the wheel slip in the dropout and rubbing against one side of the chain stays. More common on bikes with horizontal dropouts.

cheers, it's definitely not wheel rub.

I will check the cassette and lockring, but the more I read the more I think maybe the bearings have gone. maybe I have contributed to this by clamping the wheel too tight in the frame all this time (overloading the bearings) but they seem to have a (internet) reputation for giving out pretty quickly

The recommended offset value range of 500 to 524 is simply the amount the system adjusts the raw power values in order to maintain accuracy given changes in the environment. A value outside this range does not effect the accuracy but is an indication of the overall health of the system.

If your PowerTap is currently at 529 I'd continue to monitor it and if it keeps moving it might be time to send it in.

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Jesse Bartholomew

It could be a bearing issue but given the relative low usage that would be surprising.

Can you post a pic of the hub so I know exactly what model you have? It might be worth a call to our tech support team to walk through this one.

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Jesse Bartholomew

Hi Jesse

I bought this

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/...ro-alloy-rear-wheel/

so the hub is the black pro hub - the new model.

the more I think about it, the more I think it could be a bearing issue. last year was the wettest on record here so it has seen some rain (only once per week as I say) and the last time I used it was in a deluge. it's been sat in my garage for about 10 days unused so the bearings could have seized?

cheers

Sorry if I missed this somewhere, but what exactly is this offset value range? And is there a way to view it on an edge 500 as the head unit as opposed to the LYC?

I had this same exact thing happen to me the other day. For one of my rides it was only reading 1-2 watts for the whole ride. For another one it would creep up every 10-15 min and be almost 100w wrong. Got on last night and it was reading fine.
I had a PT SL+ a few years ago and it seemed much more reliable than the new G3 that is a week old.
Hopefully they find a fix to this issue!

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Patrick Davis | Rüster Sports | Production Manager

Phone: 319-610-2480
E-Mail: patrick@rustersports.com
Website: rustersports.com

Anything is possible. You should be able to easily check the bearings by pulling off the free hub body. Once off, you can stick your finger inside the free hub body (wear a latex glove or something) and spin each bearing. ou shouldn't feel any friction or grittiness. Same for the hub. There are two bearings in the free hub and two inside the hub. Also visually check for signs of rust. Sometimes if a hub gets wet and is put a way wet and not ridden water can pool and obviously corrode whatever is around it. (this is why you'll sometimes see pro team mechanics using a pressurized air to dry bikes in wet conditions since the bikes get put in a cool, damp truck for storage).

Anyway, if the bearings feel bad you'll want to send the hub in for service. If you're just using it on the turbo you won't really do any additional damage by continuing to ride it and you might be able to free tings up by working some grease into the suspect bearing with your finger (again, wear a glove) and don't over-do the grease. Any grease will do since it is a temporary thing.

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Jesse Bartholomew

We've had a few reports of this issue (1-2 watt max. wattages followed by too high of values).

We've found the root cause of the issue (miss-calibration at the factory on a small batch of wheels) and have a simple fix but the wheel needs to be sent back to us in Madison or one of our service centers (we have service centers in Los Angeles as well as each major global market such as UK, Germany, Australia, France, Italy, Spain etc.)

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Jesse Bartholomew

OK - stuck my finger inside the freehub and couldn't spin either of the bearings at all!

Looks like I'll have to send it in. Thanks for your help anyway

I'm having some issues pairing a updated wireless pt to my joule 2.0. I previously had it paired with a 2.4+ from 2009 and it worked fine. Today I plugged in the ant+ updater to my zipp 900 2.4 and it updated correctly apparently (flashed green lights, then tuned it off before unplugging). Now I can't get the 900 to pair with the old LYC or my joule 2.0. I've changed the batteries and tried to pair again and it didn't work. Help!

This may be a stupid question, but how do I know if my powertap hub battery is dead, or if it isn't working properly. My garmin 500 will pick up the power reading when I first turn it on, but that's it. Does this sound like a battery replacement is needed?

Thanks

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