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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [p4lm3r] [ In reply to ]
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Name was Kip.

CC
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [ChiroCowboy] [ In reply to ]
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Spoke to Jaime, who CC'd Kip. The Ant+ upgrade bricking some hubs is a known issue. They sent me a RMA# and are going to upgrade the guts to a G3. Quite pleased.


ChiroCowboy wrote:
Name was Kip.

CC
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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ready for a good friday question? here we go.

i have decided to get me a powertap simply because it is the cheapest solution for power measurement on both my road and tribike, but which one should i choose

for me there exists 2 different powertaps which i can not find the difference between

its the g3 hub and the sl+ hub
as far as i know the g3 i newer and lighter, but anything else?? for me i can save 200$ if i buy the sl+ instead of the g3

so please name the differences between the 2 hubs, and pros and cons for both :)

thanks
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [ In reply to ]
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My Cycleops Joule's memory has been full for the last 2 months and I am unable delete the files on it though the unit or though Power Agent.

The only way it keeps recording is when it runs out of memory it asks to delete old files which I always say yes to.

When I try to clear the memory through Power Agent it says there is no data to delete but when I look through the history it's all there.

Now when the Joule starts up it just reads "Memory Full"

What am I doing wrong?

Is there some hard reset that I can do to clear it out? Please help.

jaretj
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [hunki] [ In reply to ]
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hunki wrote:
I have a question about the connection between the Garmin Edge 705 and a Powertap wheel. I had my first dide yesterday and if seems that the Edge now calculates the speed and distance from the wheel size instead of the GPS signal. Is that correct and can I activate the GPS measuring somewhere?
By default, the Edge 705 will use the specified wheel size if you are running a PowerTap and set your wheel size to "manual". This is more accurate anyway since the PowerTap knows exactly when the wheel has spun a complete revolution. Just carefully do a wheel roll out, measure the distance traveled, then input the value into your Garmin Edge. If you want to use GPS signal, then specify "automatic" for your wheel size.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [RichardL] [ In reply to ]
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Will left/right power balance be a feature in the future? It seems to me that if you used a cadence sensor, like the GSC10, it wouldn't be a huge hassle provide left/right power data.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [jpay] [ In reply to ]
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jpay wrote:
Jesse,

I have a Joule 2.0 using a Pro+ Hub. On the Joule, since maybe 2 weeks ago, I get a warning across the top of the screen that says, "PWR Batt". I will get this even when the Joule battery has just been fully charged. I don't think this is the same warning that comes up when the battery is low and just needs to be charged. I don't think it is the hub battery either because I have seen the warning to change that battery, and it doesn't say "PWR Batt". I am wondering if there is something I need to do to get that warning to go away, like get a new rechargeable battery for the Joule. Please let me know what I can do.

Thanks.

Hi JPay - did you ever get to the bottom of the "PWR Batt" alarm? I have been getting the same thing over the last couple weeks. I have plenty of charge on the device, and hub batteries have a different alarm (and recently replaced). What other batteries are there? Replacement of the rechargeable battery? I hope not - only a 2 year old unit.

Thanks,
Brett
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [bwritten] [ In reply to ]
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bwritten wrote:
jpay wrote:
Jesse,

I have a Joule 2.0 using a Pro+ Hub. On the Joule, since maybe 2 weeks ago, I get a warning across the top of the screen that says, "PWR Batt". I will get this even when the Joule battery has just been fully charged. I don't think this is the same warning that comes up when the battery is low and just needs to be charged. I don't think it is the hub battery either because I have seen the warning to change that battery, and it doesn't say "PWR Batt". I am wondering if there is something I need to do to get that warning to go away, like get a new rechargeable battery for the Joule. Please let me know what I can do.

Thanks.


Hi JPay - did you ever get to the bottom of the "PWR Batt" alarm? I have been getting the same thing over the last couple weeks. I have plenty of charge on the device, and hub batteries have a different alarm (and recently replaced). What other batteries are there? Replacement of the rechargeable battery? I hope not - only a 2 year old unit.

Thanks,
Brett

Brett,

I did replace the hub batteries and the "PWR Batt" warning went away. I don't know how long that warning goes off before the hub batteries run out, but I had it on for quite a while. Probably about two months of riding an average of 7 or so hours a week. I thought like you that there was a different warning for the hub batteries but apparently on the last firmware upgrade it was changed. I don't know how recently you replaced your hub batteries but mine lasted about 8 months and I it was just over 3000 miles. I don't know if that is normal or not, but it is what I got. I guess if I were you I would check on getting new hub batteries. Changing those is what took that warning away for me.

Best of luck,

Josh
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Jctriguy] [ In reply to ]
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Make sure you upgrade the 2.4 firmware to version 7.60


Jctriguy wrote:
Jesse,

Had a question about the 2.4+ model. Should that hub send both ANT+ and Saris 2.4 signals? I have a 2.4 computer that doesn't seem to pair with the hub. It works perfectly fine over ANT+. I've tried to have the computer 'learn' the hub again and looked through the manuals online. Am I missing something here?

Thanks.

Jesse Bartholomew

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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [7718] [ In reply to ]
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Make sure the LYC has version 7.60 firmware and also that the Edge 500 has the latest version of firmware. If that still doesn't do it give us a call for options. 1-800-783-7257


7718 wrote:
Good question. I would like to know the same thing... I have a similar problem, although its a little worse.


I recently upgrade my wireless powertap 2.4 hub with the wireless ant+ updater. Everything seemed to go fine. plugged it in, turned it one. lights flashed for a bit and then the green light flashed indicating success. just like the instructions said. turned it off, but the battery pack back in (with new batteries). but now neither my LYC nor my garmin 500 will pair with the hub. :(

any suggestions??

Jesse Bartholomew

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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [WyoJoe] [ In reply to ]
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What firmware version are you running on the Garmin?


WyoJoe wrote:
My G3 (part of 1 yr old Cyclops wheelset) three days ago suddenly stopped calibrating with my Garmin 500 after nearly a full season of operating flawlessly. The Garmin when turned on "sees" the power meter and asks if I want to calibrate, I hit yes and it goes on forever without finishing. If I wait a few minutes I can hit the back button, the Garmin at that point no longer "sees" the G3 so I can hit search so that if finds it and then it will calibrate successfully (value of 514.) Only thing I can think of is that I rode a short stretch of very rough (almost cobblestone like) road recently.

I've updated the firmware and replaced the G3 battery (old one was only 2 months old), with no change. Garmin is fully charged and will successfully calibrate with the Quarq Cinco on my TT bike. Any suggestions on a solution?

Jesse Bartholomew

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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [mcycle] [ In reply to ]
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Couple things-

The issue you're describing is actually due to the type of display being used in the Joule GPS vs. the LYC or Joule. The Joule GPS uses a full-dot matrix while the Joule and LYC use what's commonly referred to as a segmented display. Manufacturers like us like full dot matirx displays because we can program just about anything and display it, this makes adding features (like your request for the clock on the dashboard) possible. However, that flexibility typically comes at the expense of some readability. Segmented displays are easier to see, especially in direct sunlight or when the sun is low but the display is literally burned into the glass so we're limited in what we can display where on the glass and once we've locked it in that's it. This is why so many things on the LYC are kind of cryptic- we wanted to offer a feature and made a way to show it on the screen with the characters we had.

Before giving up, try playing around with different numbers of metrics on the dashboard, 4 seems to work well for readability but 3 might be better. Adjusting the contrast to something darker will typically be better for the conditions you're describing and also play around with the angle of the computer itself. We've designed the display to actually be easier to read if the computer is slightly more level. Hope that helps.


mcycle wrote:
Jesse-

I recently purchased the Joule GPS after being a long time LYC computer. The LYC had to go as I purchased a G3 wheel. Maybe I'm a simple person, but the resolution on the LYC is better than the Joule GPS in bright morning/evening time periods and if you can't see what you need to see, all the fancy bells and whistles don't mean as much.

Questions- I've read the manual and think I am fairly comfortable with many of the basic settings/setup.

1) That being said, on my very first morning sunny ride today with the computer- the glare on the computer in the earlier AM hours- 8-10AM- was difficult to see the screen. I've never had this issue with the LYC or prior cateye type computers. I also have the contrast on a lower setting, as high contrast seems to make it harder to see. Any suggestions?

2) The clock is really, tiny. I want to have it as one of my options on my dashboard- so I can actually see it. Can I do this- if not, you really should allow this as an option in a firmware upgrade. As- the question above with the screen hard to see at different times- makes seeing the tiny font all but impossible, especially in motion. Plus, it's so tiny that I would have to be stopped at a red light and put my nose close to the screen to actually read the time, during certain times of day. The LYC never an issue as you could just swap ride time to time of day and the font size was easy to see. I have perfect 20/20 vision....

3) I'm thinking about getting the Joule computer if the resolution is better than the Joule GPS. Is it more comparable to the LYC resolution? Is the Joule resolution better/worse/same as compared to Joule GPS?

Thanks-
Mark

P.S. G3 hub is very nice- stiffer wheel and bearings seem nicer.

Jesse Bartholomew

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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [mcycle] [ In reply to ]
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p.s. we'll add the time of day to the dashboard as soon as we can and glad you like the G3!!


mcycle wrote:
Jesse-

I recently purchased the Joule GPS after being a long time LYC computer. The LYC had to go as I purchased a G3 wheel. Maybe I'm a simple person, but the resolution on the LYC is better than the Joule GPS in bright morning/evening time periods and if you can't see what you need to see, all the fancy bells and whistles don't mean as much.

Questions- I've read the manual and think I am fairly comfortable with many of the basic settings/setup.

1) That being said, on my very first morning sunny ride today with the computer- the glare on the computer in the earlier AM hours- 8-10AM- was difficult to see the screen. I've never had this issue with the LYC or prior cateye type computers. I also have the contrast on a lower setting, as high contrast seems to make it harder to see. Any suggestions?

2) The clock is really, tiny. I want to have it as one of my options on my dashboard- so I can actually see it. Can I do this- if not, you really should allow this as an option in a firmware upgrade. As- the question above with the screen hard to see at different times- makes seeing the tiny font all but impossible, especially in motion. Plus, it's so tiny that I would have to be stopped at a red light and put my nose close to the screen to actually read the time, during certain times of day. The LYC never an issue as you could just swap ride time to time of day and the font size was easy to see. I have perfect 20/20 vision....

3) I'm thinking about getting the Joule computer if the resolution is better than the Joule GPS. Is it more comparable to the LYC resolution? Is the Joule resolution better/worse/same as compared to Joule GPS?

Thanks-
Mark

P.S. G3 hub is very nice- stiffer wheel and bearings seem nicer.

Jesse Bartholomew

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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [dlaxman31] [ In reply to ]
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What are the calibration values currently?

What are they before you calibrate and after?

What head unit are you using?

If it is in fact the strain gages, you'll need to send it back to Madison or your nearest service center (we have about 15 globally).


dlaxman31 wrote:
Figured I'd try here first. I recently replaced my batteries in my PowerTap Pro+ wheel and recently replaced the battery.

Reinstalled wheel and low power (10-25 watts). Re-searched for the PT and calibrated, still low power reading. Reinstalled different batteries and re-searched the PT and calibrated, still low power reading.

I don't believe the calibration is off but I am having some issues getting it to calibrate as fast as it used to.

If the issue is the strain gauge, what are my options?

Thanks for your help.

Jesse Bartholomew

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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [berchrker] [ In reply to ]
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The G3 is newer but more importantly it uses a different electronics and mechnanical architecture that is more durable and easy to service because the electronics are separate (you can remove the cap and replace it). The G3 also uses better bearings and has wider hub flanges for a stiffer/stronger wheel. The G3 is 100g lighter than the SL+ as well and with our recent price changes I'm surprised you can save $ going with the SL+ unless it is used and the G3 is new.....


berchrker wrote:
ready for a good friday question? here we go.

i have decided to get me a powertap simply because it is the cheapest solution for power measurement on both my road and tribike, but which one should i choose

for me there exists 2 different powertaps which i can not find the difference between

its the g3 hub and the sl+ hub
as far as i know the g3 i newer and lighter, but anything else?? for me i can save 200$ if i buy the sl+ instead of the g3

so please name the differences between the 2 hubs, and pros and cons for both :)

thanks

Jesse Bartholomew

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Post deleted by powertap [ In reply to ]
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [grumpier.mike] [ In reply to ]
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The challenge is matching the hub data with the cadence data. Possible but a lot of work....we've got something better in the works.


grumpier.mike wrote:
Will left/right power balance be a feature in the future? It seems to me that if you used a cadence sensor, like the GSC10, it wouldn't be a huge hassle provide left/right power data.

Jesse Bartholomew

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Post deleted by joelt [ In reply to ]
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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I have a PT SL+ with over 20k miles. It currently seems to read fine, nothing out of the ordinary. I'm going to rebuild this wheel and was thinking about sending it in to get it checked up since this will be a good time to just send the hub (vs the whole wheel). Is this necessary if the PT seems okay?
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks for the answer. Can you guys consider releasing a firmware update for the Joule GPS that allows you to program what the bottom two numbers are, when the main field is highlighted? Obviously, when you highlight watts, HR, or speed, seeing avg and max makes sense, but highlighting some of the others, would be another way to allow me to put the clock option as a bigger option- like ride time, and then you see time of day. More customability = better

powertap wrote:
Couple things-

The issue you're describing is actually due to the type of display being used in the Joule GPS vs. the LYC or Joule. The Joule GPS uses a full-dot matrix while the Joule and LYC use what's commonly referred to as a segmented display. Manufacturers like us like full dot matirx displays because we can program just about anything and display it, this makes adding features (like your request for the clock on the dashboard) possible. However, that flexibility typically comes at the expense of some readability. Segmented displays are easier to see, especially in direct sunlight or when the sun is low but the display is literally burned into the glass so we're limited in what we can display where on the glass and once we've locked it in that's it. This is why so many things on the LYC are kind of cryptic- we wanted to offer a feature and made a way to show it on the screen with the characters we had.

Before giving up, try playing around with different numbers of metrics on the dashboard, 4 seems to work well for readability but 3 might be better. Adjusting the contrast to something darker will typically be better for the conditions you're describing and also play around with the angle of the computer itself. We've designed the display to actually be easier to read if the computer is slightly more level. Hope that helps.


mcycle wrote:
Jesse-

I recently purchased the Joule GPS after being a long time LYC computer. The LYC had to go as I purchased a G3 wheel. Maybe I'm a simple person, but the resolution on the LYC is better than the Joule GPS in bright morning/evening time periods and if you can't see what you need to see, all the fancy bells and whistles don't mean as much.

Questions- I've read the manual and think I am fairly comfortable with many of the basic settings/setup.

1) That being said, on my very first morning sunny ride today with the computer- the glare on the computer in the earlier AM hours- 8-10AM- was difficult to see the screen. I've never had this issue with the LYC or prior cateye type computers. I also have the contrast on a lower setting, as high contrast seems to make it harder to see. Any suggestions?

2) The clock is really, tiny. I want to have it as one of my options on my dashboard- so I can actually see it. Can I do this- if not, you really should allow this as an option in a firmware upgrade. As- the question above with the screen hard to see at different times- makes seeing the tiny font all but impossible, especially in motion. Plus, it's so tiny that I would have to be stopped at a red light and put my nose close to the screen to actually read the time, during certain times of day. The LYC never an issue as you could just swap ride time to time of day and the font size was easy to see. I have perfect 20/20 vision....

3) I'm thinking about getting the Joule computer if the resolution is better than the Joule GPS. Is it more comparable to the LYC resolution? Is the Joule resolution better/worse/same as compared to Joule GPS?

Thanks-
Mark

P.S. G3 hub is very nice- stiffer wheel and bearings seem nicer.
Last edited by: mcycle: Sep 30, 13 13:16
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [mcycle] [ In reply to ]
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I did a static Torque test on my powertap and here was my results. I followed the instruction and used the equation off of cyclepowermeters.com. Yes, I have an exact measurement of the weight as we have a scale at work that has to be spot on. I have my results but honestly don't know what to do now. I'm just an average age grouper that wants to use the powertap for training and racing. I had a quarq but replaced it with a used powertap (dont ask why, long story) and just thought I would test to see if its accurate. Can someone tell me if this is alright or at least close enough. I just want to make sure my data will be consistent from ride to ride, don't care so much about comparing to old data.

FYI, it is a 2010 Powertap Pro + and I'm using a garmin 910 for readings.
I used a 41.75 lbs weight
52/12 I read 7.31 which is 1.216% accuracy.
52/21 I read 11.41 which is -10.896% accuracy.
52/28 I read 15.81 which is -8.401% accuracy.
36/28 I read 24.06 which is -3.451% accuracy.
36/19 I read 16.72 which is -1.124% accuracy.
36/12 I read 10.50 which is -1.685% accuracy.
Thanks for your help!
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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Is it possible to install a powertap hub (G3) in a Bontrager Aelous 9 D3 rim? If so what kind of spokes do I need?
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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Hi!

I have a Powertap Pro built into a Bontrager Aura5 wheel. I've only had it a few months and only recently started using it properly with Trainerroads.

Some days, it's fine. I zero it after a warm up and the readings stay consistant. Some days it drifts downwards. eg I could be pushing a steady 200 watts and the power readings drop gradually. I thought I just wasn't working hard enough but it does drop to Zero! So I rezero it and then I get very high readings for a bit and it drifts back to zero.

The calibration numbers vary between 1600 and 1900 and seem very inconsistant. After about 2 hours of trying to get it to give a steady reading, I gave up rather frustrated. My Kurt Kinetic trainer with inRide does give me numbers to compare it to and the values drift down to zero whilst I maintain a steady effort confirmed by the inRide.

What am I doing wrong? It's being read by my Garmin 800 and by Trainerroads via a Garmin ant+ stick and both show the same numbers.

Thanks very much. I don't live near a Powertap dealer and didnt want to send the whole wheel off if I can fix this myself.

I haven't tried changing the batteries yet but will give this a go today

************************

Changing batteries made no difference. If I warm up then calibrate, it gives figures of about 1800. If I do nothing but recalibrate it again and again, the number comes down each time till it settles at 1550ish. O guess the opposite happens as I pedal as it would seem to fit in with the wattage dropping as I pedal - ie that it's requiring a higher and higher calibration number but as I'm pedalling and not recalibrating, the wattage just drops gradually instead. I guess I need to send the whole wheel off somewhere to sort this out???
Last edited by: alexwong: Oct 12, 13 4:05
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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powertap wrote:
What firmware version are you running on the Garmin?


WyoJoe wrote:
My G3 (part of 1 yr old Cyclops wheelset) three days ago suddenly stopped calibrating with my Garmin 500 after nearly a full season of operating flawlessly. The Garmin when turned on "sees" the power meter and asks if I want to calibrate, I hit yes and it goes on forever without finishing. If I wait a few minutes I can hit the back button, the Garmin at that point no longer "sees" the G3 so I can hit search so that if finds it and then it will calibrate successfully (value of 514.) Only thing I can think of is that I rode a short stretch of very rough (almost cobblestone like) road recently.

I've updated the firmware and replaced the G3 battery (old one was only 2 months old), with no change. Garmin is fully charged and will successfully calibrate with the Quarq Cinco on my TT bike. Any suggestions on a solution?

3.30.0.0 sorry for the delayed response. Good news is that after the third time I reset the unit the problem cleared up by itself - back to pairing with the Garmin automatically.

Thanks


WyoJoe

If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right - Henry Ford
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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PowerTap G3C issue with Garmin Edge 500 I am seeing strange activity on this set up. Some Rides the Watts and Cadence register correctly and then on a ride the Watts & Cadence will go to zero. I've put a fresh 2032 battery in the hub and the hub is on the latest firmware and the Garmin is on current firmware. I am starting to troubleshoot this. any Ideas?? Thanks!!
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