Do you mean rivets? If so, why "no going back" if you drill them out? Just rivet it back in place if you decide to go back.

If they actually are riv-nuts, then just unscrew the screw threaded into them and remove the mount ;-)

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

rivets sorry and not riv-nuts as I would just unscrew the hanger.

How hard is it to rivet the hanger back in place?

I guess the question should be how hard will it be to get the backside of the rivet out of the frame so they do not rattle while riding?

Not very with the right hand tool...or, you could replace them with riv-nuts and reattach it with screws.

It's basically the same process with each. Nick gives a good overview of the process with riv-nuts here: http://www.tririg.com/...rage_Bosses_Tutorial

Rivets are basically the same, just the tool is slightly different (you don't have to thread it on). Tons of YouTube vids out there like this one:


The key will be making sure the head of the tool has clearance to the part for installation IME.

If HS kids can drill out and re-install rivets in the pits during a robotics competition, I'm sure you can get the hang of it ;-)

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

Thanks Tom and I am sure I can do it. I should have looked at the bike a little closer. My only issue is that Cervelo bonded the hanger to the frame as well as the three rivets. I hope they did not. I can then just cover the holes with a decal.

I have an email into Fibre-Lyte for the new 46t spriderless chainring.

I will be doing the Top Tube riv-nut install for bento box anyways so I might as well just do it all at one time.

Wait, so you're going single ring but only a 46t? You racing cross or something?

No but I am going to stick with my 11/28 and when paired with the 46T it will give me the same as a 50/12 and I will lose some bottom end but for the races I am doing, it should be ok. It also allows me to stick with my standard rear derailleur and closer jump between gears.

What you think you'll gain in CdA reduction you'll lose by running a rubbish chainline. Also, how is an 11-28 10 speed cassette considered in any way to have 'close jumps'? But hey, it's your dime. Do your thing.

Went to the Alps with a mate running CX1 with a 38t up front. He hated himself so much on the first day that he didn't come out for the restof the week.

Closer jumps than running a 32 on the back or larger like some people do when going to 1 X set up. I have run this set up before and the new spiderless chainring ends up between the 50 and 34 when installed and improves the chainline.

Has anyone quantified the savings of a single chainring set up?

I'm not saying it's not worth it, just wanted to know if anyone had data.

How fast? I assume you have data...

I'll stick to my 1-3w savings and close ratios. http://www.bikeradar.com/...oper-shifting-44016/

I'll stick to my big ring and 11-23

Yu and Cote from Specialized say that they're going to test this sometime soon. (Source, conversation on Twitter.)

I trust them to set up the experiment, and given how surprised we were with the results of shaved legs/arms tests, I expect that if there is something they'll find it.

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'It never gets easier, you just get crazier.'

I have not seen anything yet but I know from past experiences that I like running the 1 X set up. I like the simplicity, especially when doing the races I do. I had a winter bike set up as a 1 x 6 a couple of years ago and loved it.

I do not see an issue at all running a 46/11 vs 50/12. Yes I will lose a bit from my 50/11 but the different between the 11 and 12 on the back just means I will spin out a couple of seconds sooner and have to coast a bit more.

What are the aero benefits, that is where I am not sure but if I do remove the FD hanger, FD and remove my complete spider and only have a full carbon disc on the crank, it will be an improvement just not sure how much.

I can't wait to see this one. I still have to order the ring and might be ordering a ring for the road bike as well. For that I do want to run the Tri bike first and see how it all pans out first.

The plan is to have it nice and aero, right at 6.8kg and as simplistic as possible.

Like I said, the OP can do what he wants. I'm simply trying to understand how someone could enjoy being so under geared. Maybe it's a tri thing I don't get, but even the triathletes I know were running a minimum 52t at IM Wales.

Without knowing how I ride, where I ride and what races I am doing, how can someone make such assumptions. I have ridden 50/36 for years with 11/23 for race day set up so moving to an 46t front and 11/28 gets me almost spot on.

Now if I was doing strictly TT races like yourself my gearing choices would be significantly different as would my cadence while riding. I unlike you, have to run after I do my ride and do not have the pleasure to sucking back a Guinness once I stop riding.

Running after the ride has to be handles much differently.

I would guess your 1-3 watt estimate is probably pretty close. I noticed that they had some cfd model results for the new Giant. The interesting thing to notice is that one of the highter pressure points on the entire frame is the FD

See the cfd results image and look for the red

http://aerogeeks.com/...rinity-advanced-pro/

Hmmm, looking at that red, I'd say that triathletes should remove their knees and shoulders. Or at least find ways to diffuse pressure there.

More seriously, that front hub makes up a lot of drag. If you could clean that up then we'd be going faster.

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'It never gets easier, you just get crazier.'

John Cobb built a wheel that had an airfoil that wrapped around the front axle. If I remember correctly it didn't have bearings, so it might have been a wind tunnel only wheel, but I think he said it was worth 4 or five watts.

Then there are the dimpled Zipp hubs. Hmmm, I wonder it those worked?

English aero hub would probably go some way to making to making it faster.

I don't think that the OP will be meaningfully undergeared with the equivalent of a 50x12.

I realise that this is N=1 but using Wales as an example, my biggest gear there this year was 52x11. Do you want to know how many times I used it? Twice. For no more than 5 seconds each time.
On the flip side to that, I spent a total of 4-5 minutes in my 36x32 trying (and sometimes failing) to stay under threshold (~320W, about 4.1W/kg) on the steepest hills. Being overgeared is a much more significant problem than being undergeared for 99% of the amateur field in IM.
In hindsight, I'd have been better suited to a 50/34 that day.

Spun out at 35mph? Guess what - you're still travelling 35mph!

How did that look/work?

Was the airfoil fairing light and free-spinning enough that the force of the wind kept it facing forwards rather than spinning or hanging downwards?

Anyone done this with a speed concept 7 series? Is the hanger bonded on as well?