only comments I have right now are that you are another example of not rotating at hips. your torso appears flat, but your lower back vertical. An obvious indicator of that for you is the apparent flattish torso but with knees nowhere near elbow height.

I am the same height and also the same inseam. I had to go with a older felt b2 to get the longer reach since very few newer bikes have shorter reach. I also had to go with a tri rig aero bar to get more reach to allow pelvic rotation, which you don't have in that picture.

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Heath

What sort of information are you after? The fitter used a Purely Custom fit bike, so you should have on that fit-sheet XY numbers for your fit? Is that not the case? These are going to be most useful so post them here if you've got them.

The one thing I notice, however, is that you've got really long legs, which at that height, means you've got a pretty short torso. Unless you've got extremely long arms, you'll be best off with a Tall/Narrow bike. A P-series Cervelo, Felt IA, Specialized Shiv Tri are pretty decent options.

The information in that screenshot is everything I was given. I only cropped it to keep my and my fitters personal data hidden. No XY information at all. I would mostly just like to know my ideal stack reach numbers to know what will fit (example: can I buy a 60cm slice? Looks like a no since thats a longer shorter bike). It seems like the 61cm felt at 606/443 might be a decent fit then?

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Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
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What fixes that fit wise? Stretching forward? Less saddle height?

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Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
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6 foot 3 with 34 inseam is extremely long torso.

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Heath

unfortunately the answer is learning to rotate your hips properly or better at any rate. probably a different saddle to help in that department also.

using Dan's drop formula....you should be 15-18cm drop for bars, but you come in at 11.1

why did you get a fit in first place?

Look at the fit numbers... 86.5 saddle height. That's long legs at 75 inches.

Look at the fit numbers... 86.5 saddle height. That's long legs at 75 inches.

I would say that what is strange about the fit numbers is that 86.5cm (The saddle height over the center of the crank axle) is 34", which he claims is his inseam.

I am 5'10" and have a 34.5" inseam, and my saddle height is 76 cm.

I'm guessing that he has his inseam wrong as he does appear to have long legs.

Oh when I said my inseam I guess I just said what size pants I wear. Not my actual length, I can measure that when I get home today.

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Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
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I don't own a triathlon bike yet. I got fit so I would make sure I buy one that will fit me well.

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Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
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Inseam isn't really that important at this point. Just have your fitter send you over the XY numbers to the pad position. Center or back of pad, either will work, though just have him or her specify which. Then we can help with the original question.

Just looking at your pictures, you are really still in road bike territory.
Are you being fit for UCI TT, or can you go full on for tri's?

What does being in road bike territory mean???

Your fitter skipped Step 1 - Proper posture on a triathlon bike. I would not purchase a bike based off those numbers.

1. about your morphology: if you have 86.5cm of saddle height off of a 6'3" frame you are VERY leggy. this causes some problems to be overcome (more below on that).

2. you are too stretched out. we need to move the saddle and the armrests closer together. OR we need to stretch you out by - as a couple of people here correctly surmised - flattening your back, rotating your pelvis.

3. you are not sitting on your nads. who'd want to? but you have to. you need to find a saddle that allows you to rotate your pelvis. try to touch the saddle with your johnson, arching your low back. this will stretch your position a bit, move your shoulders forward.

4. even so, back to the leggy problem, if you're not forward enough you'll hit your elbows with your knees while pedaling. if that's happening to you, then you need to move everything forward just a bit: saddle and aerobars.

5. you need to have pad x and y read off that fit bike. the bike itself reads hx and hy, that is, x and y from the BB to the center of the handlebar clamp. pad x and y is simply hx/hy with pad height and setback added to hx/hy. your fitter can and should give that to you, and that's a prerequisite of the fit.

6. your final "pad x" needs to be out there a bit. it needs to be, to pad center, at least 480mm. if it's not then it's a posture problem and/or you're just not far enough forward. yes, the 30+mm of setback is fine if you're on that ISM saddle, you're enough forward on paper, but not if you're sitting that saddle like a standard saddle.

so, to recap:

A. get pad x/y and make sure you know if it's to the rear or center of the pad (and if to the rear, what kind of pad?)

B. you need a saddle you can ride with your johnson poking the top of the saddle instead of your johnson tucked up inside a little pouch you're making between your stomach and your thighs.

C. you need a saddle that's comfortable to ride with that flatter back and forward rotated pelvis.

D. i would defer the question of whether to lower your pads more to what it all looks like after the above has been solved.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

Welp, after an email a day for 3 days and no response from my fitter I guess I'm SOL. Pretty unfortunate way to spend a few hundred bucks when I'm already on a pretty tight budget. Suppose I'll just leave a negative review on google and move on. I can't afford another fitting before buying a bike. I dont own a trainer yet but I could get one and take measurements off my current setup if that would help?

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Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
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The markups on the photo's are strange.
In the first pic, the line goes through the middle of the pad, not the point of your elbow joint. The intersection at the shoulder also looks a bit high to me. Likewise the red yellow intersection at the hip looks too high as well. The rest of pic one looks ok, but the pic isn't with the pedal at bottom dead centre. Close, but not quite.
I could be wrong, but I've always seen the knee/foot vertical line in pic 2 taken from the front of the knee, and that's more of a roadie thing to do.
Pic 3 just doesn't make any sense. The upper line is to some imaginary point in the middle of your torso? and the femur line isn't in the right place. I don't know what that angle is supposed to identify. And it's not at top dead centre on the pedal stroke, so somewhat meaningless.
The last pic makes sense. It shows you're not rotated forward in your pelvis. If that's not fixed, then the rest is a waste of time. It looks like you sat on the saddle, then leaned forward. What you should have done is sat on the saddle, leaned forward, THEN rotated your pelvis forward, in place (don't just roll forward, lift your balls slightly and rotate your pelvis in place. You should be sitting on that soft squishy bit just behind your balls, not the sit bones like you are in the photo)

To be honest, I'd throw out that info and get another fitter. Preferably a FIST certified fitter, not some guy at a bike store that learned from another guy at the bike store. Those bike sizes you note might be right, but the info from the bike fit isn't suitable for confirming that, and that is what you got the fit for.

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TriDork

"Happiness is a myth. All you can hope for is to get laid once in a while, drunk once in a while and to eat chocolate every day"

i know your fitter. i think i may be able to get you a call back.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

Thanks for the analysis. Definitely learning more about fit.

I'm a bit surprised though this isn't just some random LBS I went to. I currently live in Manhattan and did some research about the best shop in the area so its not like my choices were slim. Looks like Dan knows the guy though so there may be hope.

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Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
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Thank you, I appreciate it.

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Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
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To become more informed, all you have to do is read everything Slowman has written on the subject. Look around here, under the bike fit tab. Read and learn. THEN go back to your bike fitter (or a new one)

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TriDork

"Happiness is a myth. All you can hope for is to get laid once in a while, drunk once in a while and to eat chocolate every day"

I got an offer from a slowtwitch user of a 2012 Cervelo p3 61cm w/ dura ace and zipp vulka bars for $500+shipping. It would seem absurd for me to turn that down providing I can make it fit me. I know we haven't resolved my fit yet but do you think that would be a safe enough purchase?

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Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
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i think that would be fine EXCEPT we need to resolve the LENGTH issue. the bike is too long for your position. but it's not a long bike. any bike is too long for your position. which means we need to scrutinize more closely your position.

in short, yes, that's your bike. and then once your position is dialed, it will fit you.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman