You would choose an aluminum braking surface for better braking

Makes sense. I guess living in flat South Texas, I didn't think of that.

Even if you were somewhere hilly, I think the weight difference would only make a negligible difference unless you are very FOP kind of guy.

The Flo website claims the full carbon versions to be just a little bit more aero.

This is the reason.

very noticeable difference in braking when it's raining.

I have a set of the older FLOs if you want to take them off my hands

Do you not like them?

They are fast, they look great and feel awesome

I just don't do Tri's as much and rarely use them

Yep, great wheels, I've had a few different pairs. And Chris and Jon are two of the best guys to give your business.

Thanks for the replies. Do you think the 60s would make a good daily riding and race wheel for my tri bike.
I cracked my factory wheels so I don't have the option of buying a new set only for racing. I would like to buy just one set for now.

Yes!!

May I ask the price, and where you would be shipping from?

thanks..

Yes. I bought a set of Flo carbon clincher 60/90 to be my everyday wheels.

I bought a 60/90 set last November and if I am on my Tri bike outside that's what I use.

By the way with an extra 99 bucks for a disc cover you can have a pretty awesome set of training and racing wheels

I got the 60/90 set up, but I'm a bigger guy, riding in Florida and pretty confident in handling (I ride straight for miles on end). I got the aluminum/carbon set up for braking. One thing that might catch you by surprise depending on your bike: I had to buy a new brake caliper (bought Shimano) for my front because the stock brake (which, I didn't realize were not shimano, but another company I can't recall the name of) I had was not wide enough for the brake track. The rear was fine. That was an unexpected purchase, but only set me back about $40-$50.

I still have my wheels I purchased with the bike and am using them for trainer nights (I put the same exact cassette on my Flos. All I have to do is the rear wheel off and put the other on, makes for an easier exchange), and long rides. While my LBS trashed Flo before I bought them and asked their opinion (probably jealous he couldn't sell them), I could not be happier with my decision.

Pretty much all points have been covered already. To summarize, the biggest differences are:

1. A+C is $200 per set cheaper.
2. A+C is heavier.
3. A+C is slightly less aero.
4. A+C offers slightly better braking. In dry conditions, I don't notice it. In wet conditions it's a bit more noticeable, but the CC wheels are certainly very manageable even in wet conditions. All that said, I wouldn't make my decision based on braking performance. It's really very, close.
5. If you ride aluminum training wheels and swap wheels often, you will not need to swap your brake pads (carbon to aluminum) if you buy the A+C wheels.
6. You're in TX so this won't be an issue, but riders riding in abrasive environments, think winter riding with salt/sand/debris on the road, we at times recommend the A+C wheels for them. The simple reason being that debris gets stuck to the brake pads and grinds into the brake tracks of the wheels. While any rim will wear at a much faster rate in this type of scenario, A+C wheels will be a bit more durable.

I hope that helps.

Take care,

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Chris Thornham
Co-Founder And Previous Owner Of FLO Cycling

You answered everything! Thanks

You're welcome. Glad I could help.

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Chris Thornham
Co-Founder And Previous Owner Of FLO Cycling

I had a quick look at the website and noticed that the Alu track looked black, like the Hed Jet Black. Is that correct?

If so, how is that black applied and what is the durability like?

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

The aluminum is simply anodized and will wear off.

Note that Flo does recommend a clydesdale build for riders over a weight limit.
Go to the Flo website and email Jon/Chris. They will get back to you.

If you get the right build for your weight, these wheels are durable enough to be your everyday wheels as well as race wheels - whether all-carbon or alloy-carbon.

I got a 60 front 90 rear set. There are possible advantages in a side wind to being bigger on the back. The weight difference is trivial and would only matter in a major climbing race like a TdF summit finish. But for whatever mysterious reasons, the 60/60 pair is supposed to be slightly faster at low yaw angles. The differences between 60/60 and 60/90 would be very small in any case.

Spend some time looking at the articles on their website. They post all their data and their design process. A couple of things that were eye-openers to me was that 25mm conti Gp4ks are slightly faster than 23mm (I had already wanted to ride 25mm for ride quality and was pleased to see their data says this is also faster). Also most people are overinflating their tires. Wider rim, wider tires, lower pressure makes for a much more pleasant ride, grippy cornering, and apparently no speed penalty, possibly speed advantage. I can't help but think that a bit more "cushion" from the tires might also decrease wear and tear on the wheels and the bike as well as decreasing the wear and tear on the rider.

I am very happy with my wheels/tires/tubes set up and would recommend Flo both as a product and a company.

For me it lasted quite long in normal weather, but then I did one race in heavy rain and all the road grime + some braking immediately took that black finish clean off completely.

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if you can read this
YOU'RE DRAFTING!

I had some Hed Jet Black rims, they lasted pretty well, I had zero silver showing through after rainy races at IMC and St George and a year of riding. I am sure they'd likely show through eventually. I don't really see the point in them looking ok for a year. Do Flo do wheels without this finish?

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com